fstr n u

For sure.

I spent some time on the phone with a mechanic who specializes in forced induction. He said the exact same thing, my intake and throttle will not be the restriction. Cam specs are fine. Exhaust setup is good and will not be the restriction either.

Compression is a little low (8.5-1) and he figures that with the engine specs and amount of boost i'm running, that the volumetric efficiency of the motor hasn't been reached yet while under boost.

So we''ll try a little more boost after the fuel pump is upgraded and see. Regardless of the end result, i'll post a graph for comparison purposes.

I don't really have a number (hp) in mind i'd like to reach. What i'd like to see is my car push out more power consistently before reaching it's plateau. The car pulls really hard...so now it's just a matter of fine tuning what's there. I definitely don't want a 1000hp car...that would be too much as i already have traction issues with big drag radials.

Next step up might be a 15" rim with a MT Drag Tire better suited to traction in a straight line. That will be down the road once my current tires have lost all tread.

B5biturbo

Awesome build! Congrats on the numbers.

fstr n u

Thx for that! The numbers are impressive...though i haven't been able to fully experience those numbers on the street (last year we got everything done just in time for cold pavement and a few little gremlins popping up)

Update for April 2014: I licensed the Camaro the other day hoping to get it out on the road and see what new little gremlins would awake with this 2014 season.

Under boost, the car (from the rear) is making an aweful rubbing/whining/squealing sound. Took it out on the highway and the car wouldn't make more than 7lbs boost. Got the car up on the hoist after getting my parents air compressor to do a pressure test of the system. While in the air i thought i would do a visual check of the silicone couplers and metal tubing.

I could see at one joint under my driver side seat, there was a whole bunch of sooty crap behind the silicone coupler on the metal boost tube...every other ounce of tube looked fine (dirty...but fine). I went to snug it up and the bloody STS supplied O-clamp (or whatever it's called had slid off the metal and was compressing the squishy bit IN BETWEEN the metal gaps.

Now i'm no mechanic, but that spells boost leak to me. After going over every connection, i found 5 others slightly to moderately loose. All others were snugged up sufficiently.

My oil wasn't looking to pretty, but i'll be changing that soon. The metal clunk is still there...though doesn't seem as horrible as last year (...i think it's the UMI torque arm setup).

My car is also leaking oil from around the starter it appears. I'll have our local tuning shop in Saskatoon, Performance Plus give 'er a look over at the end of April and see what may be going on in case i'm wrong.

Otherwise, it felt good to get out in a manual transmission car again that makes noise...our winters are too long for car peeps (who don't have trucks/sled and quads)

If all works out and my car isn't a broken mess, i'll post a dyno vid/graph once the new fuel pump goes in within the next few weeks.

fstr n u

Well the car is making stupid boost again Wife hates my car soooo much!

My check gauges light is flickering like a siv under any acceleration, which leads me to wonder if the alternator, serpentine belts and voltage is keeping up. I'm going to have a local tuner/mechanic go over my car at the end of April.

Until then, when it's nice and i'm not at work, i'll drive the car and enjoy it.

Getting sooooo close to eliminating all the stupid little bugs modifications can attract

fstr n u

Currently sorting out boost controller bugs. Can't make more than spring pressure boost with 2 different boost controllers: STS boost controller and/or Forge Motorsports UNOS controller.

Just finished plumbing up 10th...yes tenth...variation of boost setup. Had a local turbo guy recommend a setup for me. Just got home from work, and got it all setup. Will take the car out tomorrow and see if we can make more than 10# of boost controlled.

If not, may need to go the electronic route.

sleepy_z

iTrader: (8)

Are you running any cats?

fstr n u

Nope..they would just restrict exhaust flow to the turbo.

I as of today have a new manual boost controller on order and will wait for it to arrive and see if we can make more than the spring pressure (10#) with a controller. So far our success rate is crap!

I'll keep this post posted. If that makes sense...

fstr n u

Finally after i dunno how long, and various MBC's and setups, i was able to make MORE than spring pressure with my Grimmspeed MBC. 1st gear can see between 7-10#, 2nd gear between 10-12#, 3rd gear 13# (which is what i have it set at).

I still have the entire setup with zipties and uneven length tubing as i've had to swap this setup around too many times. Between today and tomorrow, i will get the MBC properly mounted, tubing cut to proper length, get some new hose clamps (mine are twisted, bent and on their last leg from too many tightenings) and get it all setup for a dyno session at some point.

What is interesting though is that this design goes against the manufacturers design recommendation (Boost Controller and Wastegate companies). Oh well, it works and i'm almost done with this setup.

Next up will be plumbing in a better air cleaner location so i can drive in wet weather without hydrolocking my motor.

fstr n u

I had gone to a local exhaust shop, competition muffler who got me a mandrel bent 4" exhaust pipe (9"x16") which has become my new air intake tube (with a little trimming at home).

I also got a piece of 3.5" tubing to use as a MAF delete.







Got everything installed, took the car out and all was fine until i was on the way back home...my engine won't drop below 1,5000 rpms now (it surges between 2k rpm or 1,500 and 1,700 rpms depending). I've pulled out my floor mat so nothing was interfering with the gas pedal.

Threw the car up my hoist, and there is a little slack in the throttle cable when running or parked. When the wife is at work tomorrow and i'm home from my interview i'm going to yank the throttle body and see if the throttle blade/body needs cleaning.

If that doesn't solve it, i'll look at the gas pedal assembly and see if that's what's causing it.

If it's not one thing it's another...stupid cars.

fstr n u

There ended up being a massive vacuum leak caused by the increased boost. I had both of the plastic ports that come off the passenger side of the throttle body plugged with rubber condoms and clamps. The lower one blew off at some point..but was hard to see as it's always dark and hard to see. In this photo, it's the port connected to the "blue" lettering":

fstr n u

I am shooting to get in for a dyno session to dial up the boost on the camaro to between 13 & 15# boost before early August. I'll post a vid/dyno pic once this is done.

fstr n u

Well, it's finally here. As long as everything works out, will be doing one final dyno session with my Camaro. I've made a few shakedown runs on it since the MAF deletion and nothing has leaked, blown up or been torn to shreds.

I'll post a vid/dyno graphs once done.

After this, the car will get driven but the focus will be on cleaning up and repairing body/interior bits over the next few years. Hard to believe this started back in spring of 2011 with the new forged motor being transplanted into the Camaro.

I am hoping to have the car at Perf Plus for 7:30pm and see if we can get the boost and tune dialed in properly. My last 3 dyno sessions have netted me with broken parts...so if bad luck runs in spells of 3's, i should be safe for tonight's session.

fstr n u

Ran the car on the dyno and here are the results...dyno sheet to come tomorrow hopefully.

Made just over 700 rwhp and just over 700 lb/ft of torque at 14-15# of boost.

-IAT's were quite high.
-Fuel injectors (60#) were duty cycled out at 100% when running pig rich at full boost. CK was able to get that leaned out and saved my injectors for the time being.
-With Grimmspeed MBC and a 10# WG spring in situ, was able to make 15# boost max. I have to figure out if i can replumb this setup differently and get more boost out of this setup...someway.
-Nothing broke this time though i did by fluke happen to have a friend and his father there with a flatbed truck.

Plan is to drive the car as is for the rest of the season as is with no more serious tinkering aside from plumbing of MBC and a bracket/shield for relocated air filter tube i fabricated.

Overall happy with setup, but was hoping for 16-18# boost. Though due to injectors and possibly gap on spark plugs (30 thou), that was probably the car's limit anyways.

Not sure what next year will hold for car, though i'm hoping for more seat time, and less tinkering time.

BigBadWhitey

iTrader: (3)

Ok so based on your last post: If im looking to make 10-15 lbs of boost on a 6.6L ls2 (Im not even sure ill make that much boost) I should def go for some 80lb injectors? I dont want to be running at 100% duty cycle.

Congrats on the numbers, id love 700ft lbs!
Cant wait to see the curve.

fstr n u

This wasn't the best dyno the car made, but it was the only one saved on file. It at least shows the curve. Dyno runs were made with a start around 3,500rpm.

There is still a bit of drop off around 6,000rpm which isn't felt much in the car, but i have to do a 4th gear pull.

Next season with new spark plug gap, and likely fuel injector upgrades, the car may see a bit more boost. But i'll talk with my local tuning gurus in 2015 and sort that out then.

fstr n u

It is our local Cruise Weekend this weekend. Tonight there are drag races and over the weekend various car shows and other automotive things to do.

Never tracked my car with slicks before and a friend offered his up. So i have my helmet, jacket, safety gear, slicks on and we are going to see how the car runs with slicks. The track won't be prepped as it's a street night, but they should be better than my drag radials.

The best run i've had thus far was low 12's at almost 130mph with a 2.2 60ft Had some issues getting into 3rd gear when flogging it...so i'm hoping i have no issues tonight.

I'm going to give these low pressure slicks a butt kicking with hopefully some boost off the line to:

a: get a sub 2 second 60ft
b: to get deep into the 11's or high 10's

I'm hoping my car is cooperative and doesn't let me down!

BigBadWhitey

iTrader: (3)

Howd she run?!

fstr n u

Finally broke into the 11's. Car felt like it was running well. Granny shifted after getting a good launch, hoping not to break 11.49 seconds...but there's no way to know how fast you are running until you get your slip

I was told i need a roll cage if i want to race at SIR again, so maybe Swift Current next year (they have less stringent regulations).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Qb_...ature=youtu.be

With this current setup, i could've mustered a low 11 or high 10 with keeping the throttle open and maintaining boost...but i got kicked off before i could try that out.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Congrats on getting kicked off! LOL
Nice mph . So was that a 3.0 60ft?
Be cool to see what you can Get at Swift. Maybe should put rollcage to make it legal to 10.0. You could put swing out bars in there . Not sure what else you have to do these days to be legal to 10.0. I do know that under 10.0 it gets crazy with medicals? full cage , always have to change out things like belts,etc.

Anyway nice to see your hard work paying off.
I still wish that Thunder was a 1/4 mile track. Just not that into 1/8 mile stuff. But better than nothing. Ashcroft don't think was open much this year not sure whats up with that and Mission is pretty far away and was closed most of the season as well for track upgrades/repairs.

fstr n u

1.8 sec 60 ft spinning through most of 1st gear
granny shifting trying to stay under 11.5 sec through 1/4 mile..didn't work

Definitely won't be putting in a cage or bars of any sort. I think the rules are archaic and should be changed. Many stock exotic cars can run into the 11's with a perfect setup without needing cages and other crap.

My car was built for personal use and the track is only 1 measure of a car's ability and performance. I know there's a high 10 sec in this setup, though i don't care much to exploit it further. I may try the car at another track next year, though i'm learning towards not bothering spending the time to travel 3 hours each way plus race time to sort out.

I have a little more work to do with the car the way it's setup, and now the fun will begin trying to clean everything up (wiring, paint, body, braking, cooling, etc).

I think the car is near perfect the way it sits.