kennymox510

Right now i am running on curve 6 with my stock bottom end 5.3 stock cam holley single plane, 750 holley and long tubes i am about to put in my new cam which is 228/333 .600/.600 lsa110. what should my timing look like after the install

TXsilverado

iTrader: (18)

a safe start would be 10* at 0rpm ramped to 20 by 500rpm. ramp that to 26 or so by 1,500...that's a safe start that will run good. you can push it harder once you're comfortable. I basically flat lined my timing from 500rpm-8000 and it did great. 10 at 0rpm ramped to 31 by 500rpm and flat lined it from there.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

^^^ that is my favorite baseline.

kennymox510

Which is your favorite? Te way his is setup or the way he is telling me to start mine?

TXsilverado

iTrader: (18)

the baseline safe tune. you can push it harder later once you're more familiar with the car.

kennymox510

so i finally got my laptop to work with my 6010 box. i set up the timing that TXsilverado suggested. the car ran like crap and wouldnt idle for ****. i started playing around with different curves and was able to the car to idle A LOT smoother by doing 10* @ 0rpm, 15* @500rpm and 27* @2500rpm. only problem is, the car smokes so bad with this curve that i cant stand in my garage for more than 5 seconds without my eyes burning to the point of not being able to see. any ideas?

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

Sounds like you have a carb issue not timing problems

Tim

TXsilverado

iTrader: (18)

15* at idle will likely make your motor run hot. i'd say you have fuel issues, not timing issues. lean up your idle screws. do you have a wideband or vacuum gauge?

did you pull all timing from the MAP values?

kennymox510

It was definetly a carb issue. put on a different carb and it went almlst all thr way away.

How do i pull all timing from map values? can i just unplug the map sensor

TXsilverado

iTrader: (18)

if you unplug the map sensor, it will run full value of whatever timing you put in as map values. there is a table on top for MAP added timing, and on bottom for rpm based timing. for a starter tune, run the map based timing at zero across the board, and the rpm timing based on the suggestion above. I would turn off any adaptive idle timing in the beginning. you need a wideband or vacuum gauge to get your idle afr straight...or a combination of both is what I ended up doing.

akdg87

I usually run over on the PT.net forum. But recently i did a carb LS3 swap in a 74 firebird for my dad. I initially had a voltage problem to the 6012 box and got that squared away.

So we are using a 750 Edelbrock and ive got the map table zeroed out. A pretty conservative timing curve(i think.); 12 degrees at 0 rpm, up to 20 degrees at 800 RPM, ramping up to 25 by 1700 RPM and 28 degrees flat lined from 3000 RPM on. Does this seem reasonable? Im getting a popping as you start to accelerate. The plugs were fouled from trying a multitude of different carbs so i will have a fresh set in.

TXsilverado

iTrader: (18)

that timing will work. the pop your getting could be a plug or fuel issue. try the fresh plugs and report back. if you don't have one already, a wideband really gives a better idea of what changes you should be making. some guys can do it, but I would be pissing in a fan without my wideband.

akdg87

Thanks, yeah it really fouled the first set of plugs (tr6 with factory gap out of the box). The fuel in the tank was about 7 years old (1/4 tank worth). Added some new gas. Almost thinking i should dump a little 100 LL in to help it out. Fuel Pressure holds steady, Its really starts to pick up power then it pops. The voltage issue was the first problem, wired in a relay for power direct from battery. Initially it was bouncing between 5v and 12v with the old power source. Now it holds 14.5v steady.

akdg87

new plugs made a world of difference. Runs decent now. The only issue im really having is that when you are in gear and floor it it hesitates a bit before taking off, bogs down and once its starts going it pulls pretty good. I know my timing curve is fairly basic. Thinking i should start adding in the map advance?

TXsilverado

iTrader: (18)

I would figure out the bog before playing with the timing. get your AFR squared up with a safe timing table. once you are confident in your fuel, you can advance the timing. that's how I would attack the project anyways.

my best guess is your getting too much fuel at the hit and it's choking on gas. I like to confirm stuff like that with a wideband though so don't act on my internet guess...

akdg87

So i purchased the GM 19170093 (770 Holley, vac sec) since its what they recommended with the gm crate motors. Runs way better, no bogging. Still get pinging if you lay into hard, ive played with timing a dozen different ways, also jetted up the carb to 74/80 from the factory 72/75.

Found out it has 2.73 rear gears and is a one wheel wonder. Switching to a 3.08 posi rearend that i already have.

Any tips on getting it stop pinging?

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Pinging is either too much timing, too lean of a mixture or carbon deposits on the pistons. The first two being far more likely.

Bowtiedford

iTrader: (9)

do any of you guys retard timing once you get in high gear?

LQ4BU

Yes, I have read that some have reported success with pulling timing, but I cant recall exactly how much or what rpm. Hopefully someone will chime in.

kennymox510

would you start at this same spot if using a 11.8:1 lq9 with 243 heads and a 228/232 .600/.600 110lsa cam. single plane intake.