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old school tuning (no wideband)

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Old 06-04-2011, 03:00 PM
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I've never pulled the plugs yet. They're still stock. Next trip out I'll throw more time at it and see how it responds. I was told you really can't read the plugs on the newer motors.
Old 06-04-2011, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sandeggo
I've never pulled the plugs yet. They're still stock. Next trip out I'll throw more time at it and see how it responds. I was told you really can't read the plugs on the newer motors.
well, its the unleaded gas that makes reading the plugs hard.
As long as there are some deposits on the plugs, you can make a hard pass, and then you will be able to see a change in color of the deposits. Cardboard brown is close.
You wont get it perfect by reading plugs on unleaded gas, but you will be able to get it close.
Old 06-04-2011, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by sandeggo
...For example my old motor turned 6300 rpms but only went 64.
With the same prop? That's just not possible without something (other than the prop) slipping somewhere. Maybe the tach readings are off, can you check that?
Old 06-05-2011, 09:03 AM
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Well it's sort of confusing as the boat doesn't have a prop, it's basically a ditch pump. It's possible because the more torque and power this new motor has, makes the boat set back and rides higher out of the water, creating less drag. The more power it has, the faster it will go. The pump is only gonna move so much water at any rpm range. On the back of the boat there's a piece of aluminum called a ride plate, you want the boat to rock back and set on it. Last year the old sbc didn't have enough power to keep it there so it would porpoise even though it was spinning faster.
Oh and the tach is a brand new auto meter that matches the rpms on the laptop.
Old 06-05-2011, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by sandeggo
Well it's sort of confusing as the boat doesn't have a prop, it's basically a ditch pump. It's possible because the more torque and power this new motor has, makes the boat set back and rides higher out of the water, creating less drag. The more power it has, the faster it will go. The pump is only gonna move so much water at any rpm range. On the back of the boat there's a piece of aluminum called a ride plate, you want the boat to rock back and set on it. Last year the old sbc didn't have enough power to keep it there so it would porpoise even though it was spinning faster.
Oh and the tach is a brand new auto meter that matches the rpms on the laptop.
Sorry, forgot that it was a jet. Either way, never heard of a motor not wanting to go WOT w/o bogging. Sounds like it's going dead-lean. Have you had the carb apart to inspect the fuel & air passages, especially the secondary side? How good are the valve springs?
Old 06-06-2011, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by sandeggo
It's a bone stock 5.3. It can go faster with less rpms if the power is more efficient. The rpms and top end speed are not directly connected. The motor is connected with a spicer driveline, like a little driveshaft. For example my old motor turned 6300 rpms but only went 64.
The only way you can turn less rpm's and go faster in the saem boat is to change impellers or have the intake plugged up. What pump and what impeller? With your timing at 21 or so at start it ahouldn't even start worth a crap. Something is real fishy there. Can you verify your timing?
Old 06-07-2011, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
Sorry, forgot that it was a jet. Either way, never heard of a motor not wanting to go WOT w/o bogging. Sounds like it's going dead-lean. Have you had the carb apart to inspect the fuel & air passages, especially the secondary side? How good are the valve springs?
It's a brand new carb, I pulled the bowl off to jet it up and everything looked great. Even had the blue nonstick gaskets. Jetting it up helped alot. This weekend I will double check the fuel pressure at WOT and turn the timing up.




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