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valley covers

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Old 08-03-2012, 11:48 PM   #1
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Do I HAVE to change valley covers when I go carb or do people just do it to get rid of the knock sensors? thanks
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:33 AM   #2
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I just cut the wire, left the sensors in there. My little black caps kept popping out when the motor was warm, had to grind a little off them and used some glue to get them to stay. I didnt like the look without the caps. A plate could be easily made, several post and pics on here of some.....
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:28 AM   #3
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Just remember if you have a newer block like an LY6 6.0 for example, That the valley cover has 8 orings that seal off the ports in the valley that would feed the displacement on demand in one of those motors.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:26 PM   #4
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thanks guys. i have an 01 or 02 4.8. i think ill just plug the holes and paint it, no one will notice lol!
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:01 PM   #5
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Many options, I made a plate before, the newer engines don't have them, they are on the sides of the block, but do not have a rear mount cam sensor.
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:28 PM   #6
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If you were to make a plate for the newer motors I would recomend tapping/ and plugging the 8 oil holes under the cover to seal them. But again, thats only for the newer DOD acceptable engines. Eric L
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Old 08-06-2012, 01:52 PM   #7
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Since I was starting with a crate motor that didn't have any knock sensors installed to begin with I went with the Edelbrock plate.

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Old 08-06-2012, 03:44 PM   #8
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Do i want to know how much?
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Do i want to know how much?
Prolly not. I paid a guy $25 to TIG some scrap in my stock knock holes. A scrap piece of 1/4" plate would be cheaper but more time (labor) intensive...
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:47 PM   #10
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If I had to do it over again I'd take the time to have some aluminum plate cut to fit. The Edelbrock plate is needlessly thick.

I had to "massage" my old-style LS1 coolant pipe to make it fit under the Performer RPM manifold. I'm suing the old-style pipe because the motor is going in a road race car and using all four steam ports is better than two.

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Old 08-07-2012, 12:49 AM   #11
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i'm planning on getting some getting some aluminum sheered then machine turn it... maybe it'll give it some old school look
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:30 PM   #12
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For what (little) it does, 1/8" aluminum should be plenty. The thickness of the castings, factory or otherwise, may have to do with dampening valvetrain noise...
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Old 08-09-2012, 10:11 AM   #13
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I made mine with 1/4" aluminum plate. The front and sides are staright, so a local metal fab shop sheared the straight edge then I traced the rear section and cut it with a jigsaw. Worked perfect.
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Old 08-14-2012, 11:04 PM   #14
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I just painted mine..unwired the knock sensors,and silicone the caps on..
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:46 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I just painted mine..unwired the knock sensors,and silicone the caps on..
Thats all my plan is.
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:46 PM
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