Gonna test this new carb spacer....what do y'all think?
02-12-2013, 04:08 PM
#21
Another trinket in my Summit order was a WOT switch bracket. This thing was probably not necessary as I could have fabbed something myself but I just wanted a simple, no hassle, bolt-on way to set up my WOT switch. Well……all’s well that ends well but this thing definitely didn’t just bolt on. It’s for a specifically for a 4150 Holley main body and since mine is a 4150 HP I already knew I'd have to tap the choke bracket holes to bolt it on......no sweat. But the aftermarket secondary linkage on my Pro Systems carb wouldn’t clear the bracket without me first grinding down the spacers on the back of it. Then I had to significantly shorten the rear idle speed screw and spring so the screw would be short enough to engage the switch arm rather than just hit the top of the switch body and keep the seconaries from opening. None of this was really a big deal to do, but by the time I was done dicking around I could have probably fabbed my own bracket or used the one that came with the kit. $40 lesson learned. Oh well....it looks cool.
02-12-2013, 05:24 PM
#22
10 Second Club
Set-up turned out great 
Motion/Baldwin style hood and maybe 2 1/2" I guess 
Looking at cowl or dash now 
)
But I like the look
Looking at cowl or dash now )But I like the look
02-13-2013, 07:23 AM
#23
Yeah, I probably griped about it more than I should have but for $40 I wanted to just bolt it on and go. But to be fair, it's for a Holley HP carb. If mine was a box stock Holley HP carb and I had to modify the bracket to make it fit.....I'd really be jumping up and down. But based on my troubles I'm guessing Pro Systems uses a secondary linkage system that is different from the Holley HP. But you're right.....I think the finished product looks great.
02-23-2013, 09:24 PM
#26
I haven't updated this in a while. Last weekend I spent a good amount of time getting the nitrous feed line routed from the engine compartment to the trunk and wiring the entire system. Routing the feed line involved removing about half my interior as I routed the line in through the firewall, behind the driver’s side kick panel, under the door sill, behind the inner quarter trim, and then over the top of the rear wheel well and into the trunk. Besides the solenoids….wiring the system included wiring the purge, bottle warmer, timing retard activation on my 6012, and a trans brake interrupt relay so I can still leave with my right foot to the floor but the nitrous won’t activate until I come off the trans brake button. None of this stuff was really worth taking pictures of, so I just took an underhood pic once all the wiring was complete and the hood and air cleaner were back in place.
Last weekend I had enough time to test that all the solenoids were functioning properly and that the trans brake interrupt was working, but that was all I had time for. So today I also tested that the timing retard was functioning properly and set up the MSD for my initial tune to pull 6 degrees. I'm sure I'll be slowly adding timing back in as I'm only starting off with a 100 shot.
Next I needed to set my flowing fuel pressure to the nitrous system. To get the most accurate pressure reading I wanted to set the regulator while flowing fuel through the actual jet I’ll be running. But obviously I didn’t want to dump raw fuel into my motor to do this. So I made a pretty simple tool out of a mason jar and some spare fittings I had left over from a dry kit that would allow me connect the fuel line from the solenoid and flow fuel though a jet and into the jar. I also had to take my fuel pressure gauge back down out of my cowl so I could see it during my testing.
I set my flowing fuel pressure at 5.5psi with the .047 fuel jet I’ll be using for my 100hp shot. Next I installed a .055 jet to see if I can still get away with a bigger shot at the same regulator setting. Luckily I only saw about a needle’s width of drop on the gauge with the .055 jet, so I think I’ll be good to increase my shot slightly at the track without reflowing the system and adjusting the regulator. And just for grins I also tested a .071 jet at the same regulator setting and found that the fuel pressure dropped to just a needle’s width over 5psi. I don’t plan on using that large of a fuel jet any time soon, but it was interesting to see where the fuel pressure ended up with the larger jet installed.
So anyway….things are coming together pretty well. At least I have a fully functioning nitrous kit now. My new goal date for track testing is going to be March 23rd. I still have some more stuff to get the car ready for the track but at this point I’d say I’m in pretty good shape.
Last weekend I had enough time to test that all the solenoids were functioning properly and that the trans brake interrupt was working, but that was all I had time for. So today I also tested that the timing retard was functioning properly and set up the MSD for my initial tune to pull 6 degrees. I'm sure I'll be slowly adding timing back in as I'm only starting off with a 100 shot.
Next I needed to set my flowing fuel pressure to the nitrous system. To get the most accurate pressure reading I wanted to set the regulator while flowing fuel through the actual jet I’ll be running. But obviously I didn’t want to dump raw fuel into my motor to do this. So I made a pretty simple tool out of a mason jar and some spare fittings I had left over from a dry kit that would allow me connect the fuel line from the solenoid and flow fuel though a jet and into the jar. I also had to take my fuel pressure gauge back down out of my cowl so I could see it during my testing.
I set my flowing fuel pressure at 5.5psi with the .047 fuel jet I’ll be using for my 100hp shot. Next I installed a .055 jet to see if I can still get away with a bigger shot at the same regulator setting. Luckily I only saw about a needle’s width of drop on the gauge with the .055 jet, so I think I’ll be good to increase my shot slightly at the track without reflowing the system and adjusting the regulator. And just for grins I also tested a .071 jet at the same regulator setting and found that the fuel pressure dropped to just a needle’s width over 5psi. I don’t plan on using that large of a fuel jet any time soon, but it was interesting to see where the fuel pressure ended up with the larger jet installed.
So anyway….things are coming together pretty well. At least I have a fully functioning nitrous kit now. My new goal date for track testing is going to be March 23rd. I still have some more stuff to get the car ready for the track but at this point I’d say I’m in pretty good shape.
02-24-2013, 06:51 AM
#27
Great attention to detail. Nice installation.
Just one safety pet peeve of mine: For cars driven on the street, I would really like to see your nitrous line run under the car - outside of the drivers compartment. Also install a piece of aluminum separating the trunk from the passenger compartment and seal it up with seam sealer if you haven't already.
I am excited to see your results. When do the tracks open near you?
Just one safety pet peeve of mine: For cars driven on the street, I would really like to see your nitrous line run under the car - outside of the drivers compartment. Also install a piece of aluminum separating the trunk from the passenger compartment and seal it up with seam sealer if you haven't already.
I am excited to see your results. When do the tracks open near you?
02-24-2013, 09:51 AM
#28
Thank you sir.
Thanks for the advice. What is your concern with routing a nitrous line in a street car vs. a race car? Line burst in the event of a wreck? I guess my thought process when doing this was that the line would be empty 99% of the time on the street but accidents do happen on the track too so I can see your point. I'm actually surprised the NHRA allows a nitrous line to be routed inside the passenger compartment but they do. I already have an NHRA-approved bulkhead/firewall between the trunk and passenger compartment as you mentioned. I built it out of 24 gauge galvanized and sealed it off with fireproof sealer.
I am too. The first test-n-tune is next weekend but I'm shooting for testing on March 23rd. Your testing has provided me a lot of motivation while I wait to try mine out. Our cars run pretty similarly NA so I'm curious to see what happens on the spray. I think, even though you're a little heavier, your tighter converter and slightly higher gears may be an advantage over mine on the spray. Of course that may not start showing up until the bigger hits though when I start to blow through the convertor and/or run out of gear for the mph. Time will tell.
Just one safety pet peeve of mine: For cars driven on the street, I would really like to see your nitrous line run under the car - outside of the drivers compartment. Also install a piece of aluminum separating the trunk from the passenger compartment and seal it up with seam sealer if you haven't already.
I am too. The first test-n-tune is next weekend but I'm shooting for testing on March 23rd. Your testing has provided me a lot of motivation while I wait to try mine out. Our cars run pretty similarly NA so I'm curious to see what happens on the spray. I think, even though you're a little heavier, your tighter converter and slightly higher gears may be an advantage over mine on the spray. Of course that may not start showing up until the bigger hits though when I start to blow through the convertor and/or run out of gear for the mph. Time will tell.
03-21-2013, 08:42 PM
#31
Not really....LOL. I've had some garbage weather to deal with so the only street tuning time I've had in the car since last year was just the other day. I made a few NA hits to check my WOT AFR but still haven't made any spray hits on the street like I wanted to. So I'll be starting from scratch at the track.
I'm starting with 53n/47f @ 5.5psi flowing. I think that should be a decent starting point. What I'm unsure of is timing. I normally run 34* timing NA so I was gonna start off pulling around 5 to put me at 29. I know that's a lot to pull for only a 100 shot but I figured I would read the plugs and then keep putting it back in a degree at a time until I found what it liked. Problem is, I don't know how many runs I'm gonna get in. I'm gonna run straight pump 93 for fuel (normally run 89 NA around here; used to race on 87 at altitude out west) and BR7EF plugs @ .030. What do ya think?
I'm starting with 53n/47f @ 5.5psi flowing. I think that should be a decent starting point. What I'm unsure of is timing. I normally run 34* timing NA so I was gonna start off pulling around 5 to put me at 29. I know that's a lot to pull for only a 100 shot but I figured I would read the plugs and then keep putting it back in a degree at a time until I found what it liked. Problem is, I don't know how many runs I'm gonna get in. I'm gonna run straight pump 93 for fuel (normally run 89 NA around here; used to race on 87 at altitude out west) and BR7EF plugs @ .030. What do ya think?
03-21-2013, 09:30 PM
#32
Not really....LOL. I've had some garbage weather to deal with so the only street tuning time I've had in the car since last year was just the other day. I made a few NA hits to check my WOT AFR but still haven't made any spray hits on the street like I wanted to. So I'll be starting from scratch at the track.
I'm starting with 53n/47f @ 5.5psi flowing. I think that should be a decent starting point. What I'm unsure of is timing. I normally run 34* timing NA so I was gonna start off pulling around 5 to put me at 29. I know that's a lot to pull for only a 100 shot but I figured I would read the plugs and then keep putting it back in a degree at a time until I found what it liked. Problem is, I don't know how many runs I'm gonna get in. I'm gonna run straight pump 93 for fuel (normally run 89 NA around here; used to race on 87 at altitude out west) and BR7EF plugs @ .030. What do ya think?
I'm starting with 53n/47f @ 5.5psi flowing. I think that should be a decent starting point. What I'm unsure of is timing. I normally run 34* timing NA so I was gonna start off pulling around 5 to put me at 29. I know that's a lot to pull for only a 100 shot but I figured I would read the plugs and then keep putting it back in a degree at a time until I found what it liked. Problem is, I don't know how many runs I'm gonna get in. I'm gonna run straight pump 93 for fuel (normally run 89 NA around here; used to race on 87 at altitude out west) and BR7EF plugs @ .030. What do ya think?
03-24-2013, 02:49 PM
#36
Thanks man.
We had a phenomenal weather day at the track with negative DA’s all day long. Tony (tsnow678) came all the way up from North Carolina with his son and brought along his Go Pro, a still camera, and another video camera and got some good pics and vids that I need to get from him later. I also had some buds come down from PA that took videos with my phone. A few of them are posted below. Here's a picture taken by Tony's son of my first nitrous pass.
Here’s how the day went. The first pass was a baseline NA pass and was a new personal best. The air was phenomenal with a DA of -934ft which was a huge reason for the huge improvement over my previous best of 11.35 @ 118. This would be my only NA pass for the day.
After swapping out the plugs for some -7s and putting a bottle in the car, I made my first nitrous pass. I started with what I figured was a conservative timing number of 28 degrees (I run 34 degrees NA). This wasn’t a completely clean pass as I lifted briefly just shortly after the launch. I was running full exhaust on my car so leaving next to a blown dragster (see the pic above) gave me a lot of popping and banging to listen to that wasn’t actually coming from my car. But it made me nervous enough to want to lift for a brief second. Then I reached down, found my sack and got back into it. The DA for this pass was -767ft. Here is the result.
After reading the plugs, it appeared the car could tolerate another degree of timing so I increased total timing to 29 degrees. The mph dropped off drastically from 129.82 to 128.40, which was an indication that it didn’t like the timing increase. But, since I was still trying to wear off my “ring rust”, I managed to go from 1st to 3rd, and then quickly back into 2nd on this pass, so I wanted to try the same timing again to validate that the mph loss was from timing and not my driving. DA for this pass was -755ft.
On the next pass everything was left the same as the previous pass with 29 degrees of timing. This pass verified that the car definitely didn’t want the additional timing as mph fell off yet again to 127.37. The DA for this pass was -345ft.
Having confirmed the car didn’t like 29 degrees of timing, I moved it back to 28 for the next pass and was able to back up and improve up the results from the first N2O pass. DA for this pass was -337ft.
After discussing it with my “pit crew” it was determined that the car may actually want less timing than 28 degrees. So we took timing back to 27 degrees for the last pass and were rewarded with the best 60’, ET, and MPH of the day. DA for the final pass was -344ft.
This makes makes me wonder two things. First I have to wonder if it would have picked up yet again at 26 degrees or if I found the sweet spot for this tune up at 27. Also, since I’m pulling 7 degrees from my NA tune for a ‘roughly’ 100hp hit…..it makes me wonder if 34 degrees is too much timing NA and I may pick up by removing some NA timing.
The nitrous tune up was a 53n/47f @ 5.5 psi hit. All passes were made with this jetting and fuel PSI and all but one pass was made with 950psi bottle pressure; one was only 900psi. Straight 93 octane fuel was in the cell with no race fuel or octane booster added. After seeing my last pass it was definitely tempting to re-jet and go for a 9 second pass but I had a feeling I better take it slow and not get greedy too fast. Things may have been fine but getting greedy with nitrous is a slippery slope so I walked away while I was ahead….LOL. Plus I was getting very close to the rev limiter in high gear at the stripe. The limiter is set at 7500 and I was going through the traps at or near 7400.
We had a phenomenal weather day at the track with negative DA’s all day long. Tony (tsnow678) came all the way up from North Carolina with his son and brought along his Go Pro, a still camera, and another video camera and got some good pics and vids that I need to get from him later. I also had some buds come down from PA that took videos with my phone. A few of them are posted below. Here's a picture taken by Tony's son of my first nitrous pass.
Here’s how the day went. The first pass was a baseline NA pass and was a new personal best. The air was phenomenal with a DA of -934ft which was a huge reason for the huge improvement over my previous best of 11.35 @ 118. This would be my only NA pass for the day.
After swapping out the plugs for some -7s and putting a bottle in the car, I made my first nitrous pass. I started with what I figured was a conservative timing number of 28 degrees (I run 34 degrees NA). This wasn’t a completely clean pass as I lifted briefly just shortly after the launch. I was running full exhaust on my car so leaving next to a blown dragster (see the pic above) gave me a lot of popping and banging to listen to that wasn’t actually coming from my car. But it made me nervous enough to want to lift for a brief second. Then I reached down, found my sack and got back into it. The DA for this pass was -767ft. Here is the result.
After reading the plugs, it appeared the car could tolerate another degree of timing so I increased total timing to 29 degrees. The mph dropped off drastically from 129.82 to 128.40, which was an indication that it didn’t like the timing increase. But, since I was still trying to wear off my “ring rust”, I managed to go from 1st to 3rd, and then quickly back into 2nd on this pass, so I wanted to try the same timing again to validate that the mph loss was from timing and not my driving. DA for this pass was -755ft.
On the next pass everything was left the same as the previous pass with 29 degrees of timing. This pass verified that the car definitely didn’t want the additional timing as mph fell off yet again to 127.37. The DA for this pass was -345ft.
Having confirmed the car didn’t like 29 degrees of timing, I moved it back to 28 for the next pass and was able to back up and improve up the results from the first N2O pass. DA for this pass was -337ft.
After discussing it with my “pit crew” it was determined that the car may actually want less timing than 28 degrees. So we took timing back to 27 degrees for the last pass and were rewarded with the best 60’, ET, and MPH of the day. DA for the final pass was -344ft.
This makes makes me wonder two things. First I have to wonder if it would have picked up yet again at 26 degrees or if I found the sweet spot for this tune up at 27. Also, since I’m pulling 7 degrees from my NA tune for a ‘roughly’ 100hp hit…..it makes me wonder if 34 degrees is too much timing NA and I may pick up by removing some NA timing.
The nitrous tune up was a 53n/47f @ 5.5 psi hit. All passes were made with this jetting and fuel PSI and all but one pass was made with 950psi bottle pressure; one was only 900psi. Straight 93 octane fuel was in the cell with no race fuel or octane booster added. After seeing my last pass it was definitely tempting to re-jet and go for a 9 second pass but I had a feeling I better take it slow and not get greedy too fast. Things may have been fine but getting greedy with nitrous is a slippery slope so I walked away while I was ahead….LOL. Plus I was getting very close to the rev limiter in high gear at the stripe. The limiter is set at 7500 and I was going through the traps at or near 7400.
03-24-2013, 04:07 PM
#40
It will be interesting to see how your car responds to less timing both on the motor and on the juice. You may get that 9 second slip without having to jet up. But, if you think the 55 jet feels good, you will love the 63 jet.
Just sayin'......
Just sayin'......