87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Pretty much the title says it all. I've been looking into a Pro Systems carb and most guys pretty much say they are dead on right from them and are happy with them but I'm looking into how much am I going to spend for one.

So if you have one or know somebody who got one, how much coin did they shell out to get one and what size did they get?

streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

I have a 950, bought it 2 years ago though. It was $690 plus $16 shipping then.

I had them spec a carb for my 408 build and they recommended a 1000cfm 4150 and was gonna be $790 plus shipping.

Fill out one of their tech sheets on the site. They'll get back with you in a day or 2 and it will have how long the wait is and price.

fast89stang

iTrader: (2)

Pretty good deal, cause my Holley 950 Ultra Hp cost 760.

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

Very comparable to what I paid for a custom built Quick Fuel 750 Q series at $630. The I had this 950 built for a lil bigger setup and it ran about $800.

I like the SV1 carb. Pretty cool how it has one big *** hole lol.

89gmcs15

iTrader: (7)

Build and tu e your own quick fuel and youd be money ahead imo. My pro systems carb flowed in between 980 and 1040 cfm. Was over $800. It idled like *** and I jetted down alot before it wasnt runnin rich. I heard good things from them so I bit and got burned with a half assed assembled carb. The assembly plastic was still on the secondary needle assembly so it POURED fuel into my engine almost as fast as the pump could supply it. The spring on the primary throttle shaft was wearing into the base plate and holding my throttle open a tiny bit holding the revs to 2200 rpms, not safe. I got ahold of them and they said I gotta set my 4 corner idle screws and the throttle plates to .020" pretty generic fix it for the problems id say. I fixed my spring and the needle and seat on my own and jetted it to rip and drilled and tapped the ifr's. All the tuning and repairs I had to do I would have been better off buying a quick fuel and doing it myself.

This was my experience and I know its a rare one, but its pretty bad to build one and send it out the door with these issues.

6D9

iTrader: (1)

My Prosystems HP1000 was $790 plus shipping.

camarof41_383

iTrader: (7)

I've had 2 Pro Systems Carbs. I don't remember the price of each its been too long now but I think they were around $700-800.

First one was a 780DP for a 383 SBC. It was spot on right out of the box. Ran it for years with no problems.

2nd one was a 1050DP for a 408LS engine. This one required a lot of adjustment, wasn't even close out of the box. It was very rich at idle and very Lean at WOT. Called and emailed tech support multiple times and received some contradictory advice depending on which person I talked to...it got very frustrating. First person said to block off the power valve and jet up. Did that reluctantly(I knew that usually isn't a good way to go especially in a street driven car)...made it pig rich at idle but WOT was better. Called back and the next person said I should never block of the power valve...after they just told me to do it. After putting the power valve back in and making major air bleed changes its pretty close now.

Overall good product for the money and I think the tech support is normally top notch. I did have the one bad experience but overall I still think they are good.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I bought a Pro-Systems carb for my car when I first built it. It had a light throttle lean condition that they could not fix. The carb ran fine at the track, it just did not drive worth a damn. Patrick and his crew built me 3 different carbs, exchanged phone calls, emails and spent a tremendous amount of time trying to satisfy me as a customer. In the end, they were not able to get it figured out, but it was not from lack of trying. The first build looked like new, the subsequent builds were sloppy.

Finally, I took it upon myself to do a lot of reading and learning. I learned the intricacies of the emulsion circuits, high speed bleeds, idle air bleed, idle fuel restrictors and the PVCRs from Mark and Yeti on The Bullet and fixed it myself. Now I have a carb that runs hard, drives great and keeps the plugs clean. And, if it ever doesn't, I know how to fix it.

I am now using and recommending Quick Fuel Q-series carburetors. The billet metering plates have replaceable IFR, emulsion and PVCR jets and the quality is excellent.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

I called pro systems some years back because of all the positive reviews on here. They were a little pricey and wanted to sell me something with no choke. I wasn't sure what to make of the out of the box claims, so I ended up getting a classic double pumper and learned how to make it work.


You might give a thought to karb king. I haven't used them but from what I read on the web they have a similar service and a very positive reputation for customer service. Once difference is they have a pile of old cores and can either build you a retro or refurb an existing carb.

On their web site Karb King says they have a spreadsheet of previous projects and that is what they use to "dial in" a carb. I would imagine pro systems is the similar. That might explain why camarof41_383 had the experience he did. Build something the same as what they have seen and it isn't rocket science. Build something new, like Speedtiggers set up or a 408LS stroker and they may have a learning experience in front of them also.

JRracing

iTrader: (35)

I used Mr. manifold on ebay and he did me right. It was slightly rich out of the box but one jet change got it were I wanted it at 12.5:1 at wot.
He also sent me a street tune with a power valve and off set jetting. and additional gaskets for the bowls and meter blocks.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for all the responses guys. I posted this for a buddy of mine who has a 431 lsx in a chevelle. The carb he has is wrong but the car runs. The carb is actually not his and he was bumming it from another buddy of ours. He is going to have to buy a carb and i figured if he is going get one why not get one that is going to come close or dead on what he needs instead of trips to the track to dial it in. From what i read from you guys it looks like hit and miss.

I know the correct way would be to buy a carb and do the tuning but i dont know jack about a carb. I've been raised and taught gm efi from GM ASEP school so i would be trying to help him when i dont know jack and could possibly hurt his motor.

Could some you guys post the steps of tuning a carb when you are starting from scratch. I know some of the terminology but don't know the processes. Where do you start and what is last is basically what im asking.

89gmcs15

iTrader: (7)

There was a good post with alot of carb information on yellowbullet a while back. I think a few guys from the carb section here posted over there too and thry might chime in here with the link.
I used the trial and error and read a ton and learned from it method. Make one change and see what it does, sometimes it took a pretty extreme change to really comprehend what it did. Its pretty hard to really damage a engine unless your so far off with your tune and your runnin a on the edge wicked high strung engine. Get a wideband and play with it alittle. Just be smart about it. Read alot and understand what your readin cuz some of its complicated. The one biggest thing to remember is dont take what anyone tells you as gold. They aren't paying for your engine when it blows. Read read read, I cant stress that enough...

speer13

I have used a bunch of carbs on my drag radial car over the years, Holley HP, BG Silver Claw, Pro Systems but the best carb I ran was from an relatively unknown shop BIGS Performance. He was recommended to me back in 2003 by Ed Curtis when Ed was traveling with me to races.. The carb ran flawless out of the box Idled like a dream and drove well for what the car was a 392 inch SBF with a cam in the .700 lift range, on the dyno I made almost 35 rwh more at peak RPM which also went up from 7100 to 7400 over the Holley HP. Jesse the owner was awesome I called him with any questions he was on the phone until everything was answered.

http://www.bigsperformance.com/

vht

I run a QF on my chevelle, great carb. Bought it off a guy on racing junk, new in the box, 850 Q series. When I put it on it run great, but when it sat all week it'd flood on the rear barrels on start up. Called QF to get them to send me needle and seats, explained where I got the carb. They sent me 2 needle and seats, free. Had them in 2 days. Customer service is awesome.

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

I had a ProSystems... it ran OK....

New engine has a CFM Carb, made killer power on the dyno

LXguy

iTrader: (5)

I've had a couple of Pro Systems carbs on heads-up race cars and street/strip cars. (granted, on Fords-ahem). I never saw the much-advertised "It'll run dead-on out of the box" from any of the carbs they sent me. To be fair, I'm going to try to improve on how something runs out of the box anyway. The race carb was close to $900 bucks (sanction specified 650 for a dual plane intake on an 8000 RPM car). The street-strip deals were more reasonable.

They all worked, but they weren't setting the world on fire. The race car ended up going back to EFI. The Fairmont ran ok, but I always felt it wasn't running to its potential, and it sure wasn't fun.

I was down in Bowling Green at a race, and my Pro Systems was continuing to exhibit the issues it always had, no matter what I tried. Quickfuel was on the manufacturer's midway. I was really impressed with the parts that came on their Q series carbs, and they seemed knowledgeable. When I mentioned I was having trouble, they even offered to help with the Pro Systems carb.

Somewhat impulsively, I bought a carb from them. I can't remember how much less it was than the Pro Systems, but it was quite a bit cheaper. Two passes later (jet changes), the car went more than a tenth quicker than it ever had, which isn't bad for Kentucky in July. Granted it was a transbrake car. Looked nice too, LOL. Car was more streetable than it had ever been also.

Since then I've had 4 QuickFuel carbs, and recommended/sold countless others. I haven't been disappointed by any of them. The most I've done to any of them is adjusting the secondary throttle plate, jet and squirter changes.

Nwayne

iTrader: (3)

I had a Pro Systems Carb on a Blown SBC and it ran pretty good. The only thing I had to compare it to was a couple of E85 carbs, which it started and idled a lot better than both. Never had it on a dyno or ran it at the track, though. I will say their customer service was second to none...

beertestr

iTrader: (4)

I ran a 780 Pro Systems Carb on my 6.0 and it ran great. I had an XR273HR cammed 6.0 running 11.76@115.8, 4100 #. I played with jetting a bit to see if I could squeeze a little more out of the motor, but no dice. Looking at wideband part throttle, the carb ran 14.1-14.5, at WOT, the motor ran 12.5ish. Fattening to 12.0 and leaning to 13.0 didn't move my mph around at all. Overall I have been very happy with it.

I'm actually selling it now and going efi on a new motor, setting the car up more for cruising and road trips. If anybody wants to try out a Pro Systems carb for under $475, PM me.