cam questions for fast 2.0 tbi
02-23-2014, 11:30 AM
#1
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cam questions for fast 2.0 tbi I want to keep or hopefully gain hp when I switch to the fast tbi setup. Should I change my cam to something more tbi friendly? Right now im running a 234/250 .621/.629 112+4 on my 6.0 lq9 woth ls3 heads. I called fast and they said it will work, now I want to know if I can find something that works better? Not looking for custom just something proven?
02-23-2014, 01:35 PM
#2
Put it on and find out, you don't want to please the rest of us that may use that setup one day so we all know if that Efi setup will work with a real cam? I want to know. You can always change cams later if it's a issue but if it is as self tuning as they claim then it should be able to use it with no issues at all.
02-23-2014, 03:13 PM
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It would be a decent comparison but im adding a cage, changing gears and different rear end, different stall maybe, taller tires, trans brake maybe. My track traps will go down with all the added weight of the heavier rear, cage, and stuff. Thats why I want some more power to keep my traps up....
02-23-2014, 04:10 PM
#6
89, the cam will work the same with the carb or EFI. The fast will self tune to the cams idle characteristics for drive ability and the big difference in cam LSA between carb and EFI has to do with the intakes. You are putting a E-carb on your engine, not a MPEFI setup like the factory LS system. If the cam worked perfect with your carb, it will do the same with the E-carb. It will just be 100% easier to tune. Read that, not even having to lift the hood to tinker and you don't even have to tinker, if you don't want to. We all know that's not going to happen though. We have to fiddle with crap on our cars, or we would just go buy a new ZL1 or C7 and have one of the big names install a package deal and run 10s, right? Just remember its not a magic box that will allow you to idle at 15.2 AFR if your cam has 30* of overlap. When you play with the AFR, again from the comfort of the driver seat, don't request unreasonable targets or the ECU will go crazy trying to give you what you want. I chased an idle surge for 2 weeks, till I realized my combo wouldn't idle at a 14.8 AFR, LOL. I dropped it back down to 13.8 and it idles like a dream .
02-23-2014, 05:18 PM
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89, the cam will work the same with the carb or EFI. The fast will self tune to the cams idle characteristics for drive ability and the big difference in cam LSA between carb and EFI has to do with the intakes. You are putting a E-carb on your engine, not a MPEFI setup like the factory LS system. If the cam worked perfect with your carb, it will do the same with the E-carb. It will just be 100% easier to tune. Read that, not even having to lift the hood to tinker and you don't even have to tinker, if you don't want to. We all know that's not going to happen though. We have to fiddle with crap on our cars, or we would just go buy a new ZL1 or C7 and have one of the big names install a package deal and run 10s, right? Just remember its not a magic box that will allow you to idle at 15.2 AFR if your cam has 30* of overlap. When you play with the AFR, again from the comfort of the driver seat, don't request unreasonable targets or the ECU will go crazy trying to give you what you want. I chased an idle surge for 2 weeks, till I realized my combo wouldn't idle at a 14.8 AFR, LOL. I dropped it back down to 13.8 and it idles like a dream .
I just want to do it right this time rather than mix matched parts. Id like to touch the 400 whp mark on our local dyno. But I cant justify a $500 cam change I made 399.6 before. Its a dyno dynamics that reads LOW. lol
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02-23-2014, 06:00 PM
#8
The cam was supposed to be for a mpfi 408 but I bought it and ran it on my carbed 6.0. So im wonderin if id benefit with a different lsa or lift or what....
I just want to do it right this time rather than mix matched parts. Id like to touch the 400 whp mark on our local dyno. But I cant justify a $500 cam change I made 399.6 before. Its a dyno dynamics that reads LOW. lol
I just want to do it right this time rather than mix matched parts. Id like to touch the 400 whp mark on our local dyno. But I cant justify a $500 cam change I made 399.6 before. Its a dyno dynamics that reads LOW. lol
02-23-2014, 07:37 PM
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so we will have to take that as it is....
02-24-2014, 07:35 AM
#13
What everyone is asking has been done a few times with different engine makes. The results will be the same. Normally the Fast will improve TQ slightly and in most cases, loose a couple HP. It needs to be said , though, that all the tests Ive seen were done right after the Fast install. After the ECU has had time to self learn ( about 50-60 miles of stop and go, and WOT driving) the fast probably gets the couple HP back and even more TQ. I honestly don't think you will pick up enough to make much of a difference in ET. Drive ability and ease of tuning will be the biggest advantage of the swap.
02-28-2014, 07:12 AM
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Heads arent milled and pistons were cut .080 and ended up with .100 Intake and .120 exhaust clearance. My pistons were out of the hole .012 tho and I used a .051 gm head gasket.