Hey guys, I've finally been able to work out the bugs in my setup to be able to hit the dyno. I have a pretty good idea of how to tune the car streetwise but I've never tuned my own vehicle on a dyno; So I'm looking for any tuning advice people are willing to give. I have found someone locally who is willing to rent out their dyno to me which is great.
My setup is a 96 SN95 Mustang with a fully forged 10:1 370, 317s w/ PAC .650s, Morel lifters, 3/8 .120 wall PAC pushrods, LS9 gaskets, LJMS Custom cam (similar stage 3) Super Vic intake, CSU Dual Needle and Seat Blowthrough Carb on E85 with a Borg S480 cast wheel .96/1.32. The carb was custom built to combo by Kevin and runs excellent. Aside from some jet changes, I haven't had to mess with the carb at all. The car has a JW Brake RMVB Th400 with a custom built Billet Revmax convertor. The turbo kit was custom built by me and is a flipped shorty to divided 2.25 to T6 flange setup, Dual 44mm gates and Dual 50mm Bovs with a 4" this Air to Air intercooler. Right now the gate springs are around 12-15lbs of boost. I have a GFB electronic boost controller with a mac 4 port but I'm just looking to tune it on gate pressure. (car is ridiculous on low boost already.)
Right now the car idles excellent at 12.7-13.0 AFR and runs smooth down the road. The car lights off so fast that trying to WOT tune it on the street is near impossible to pay attention to the AEM UEGO wideband. So that's why I'm hitting the Dyno. I'm running a MSD 6010 with a 3bar map sensor. The car has 32* at idle until atmosphere then pulls down to 18* at 5lbs and then flat lines 15* from their on out. I have BR7EF plugs in it and the E85 is spot on at 85% tested.
My plan is to strap it down on the dyno with fresh plugs, pull the timing down to 11* WOT and make a hit. Checking the AFR, and reading plugs, ill add a degree or 2 until around 15* which is where Kevin reccomened or keeping the heat on the corner bend of the ground strap. From there if the tune is too fat on the fuel side I can go down 2 jet sizes in the secondary's until I net a final AFR of 11.4ish. Though the motor is forged I want to treat it like a SBE motor to keep it alive. I have invested a lot of time and money into it and cannot Afford to blow it up lol.
ANY advice is appreciated. Ive posted this in the carb forum and the tuning forum as well bc I know there is very knowledgeable people in each forum. here are two viedos showing the car idling and a second gear hit when it had 4.10s but now it has 3.31s.