2000 SS Camaro LQ9 build!!!!HELP
#1
2000 SS Camaro LQ9 build!!!!HELP
Ok guys I'm new to this. I need some serious help I'm trying to build a bad *** lq9 camaro. I will be adding a ProCharger later, so can you keep that in mind. What I'm looking for is 550-600rwhp all motor n/a. So later when I add my ProCharger w/aftermarket pulleys I should be looking at 1000-1100rwhp (hopefully). So I currently have the complete lq9 I pulled out of a Cadillac. What is the biggest bore/stroke I can get out of the stock bottom end? I here I can do a 454 since it's a iron block is that true? Not too many people went pass 421 or 427. Why? What's my max bore I can do? The car is going to be used to do high speed highway pulls. So daily driver/strip. What transmission and RearEnd setup would you recommend? What are some great heads you would recommend? And is 550rwhp n/a enough hp needed to make a 1000rwhp with a ProCharger on pump gas? Thinking a f1x but I love the i1 cause of its programmable boost controller. Please anything helps no smart remarks like I said I'm new to ls not new to cars. Reasonable price im not a millionaire. Thanks in advance
#3
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
It's not really a question of n/a horse power being enough to make big blower power as they do not really correlate. If I were you I would not worry about the n/a power. Talk to a engine builder and get a plan together to build a proper motor that can handle the boost. Upgrade the rotation assembly, ultra rods, and upgrade piston rings to handle the boost. Now back to my first comment, if you build the motor for boost and really not n/a you will lose some power n/a. However IMO build the motor once and do it right it will save you when you add the blower. Good luck!
#4
Thanks Guys
Hey guy, I Recently got married so I had to put my build on hold. But not that that's done I have recently purchased my LQ9 block, 1 7/8 hooker headers and my wife secretly just ordered my hii-ram 102mm. Now what I'm Looking for is a full parts list, but how do I go about getting this. I just heard that I need to match up my heads with my cam and intake, is that true? I contacted a few builders but they were asking for way too much money. So my father in law who built old school hot rod back in the day said he'll help me put it together. With the help of you guy. I strongly leaning towards a 408 stroker. (Reminder)This is going to be a weekend bruiser/track car.
#5
It's not really a question of n/a horse power being enough to make big blower power as they do not really correlate. If I were you I would not worry about the n/a power. Talk to a engine builder and get a plan together to build a proper motor that can handle the boost. Upgrade the rotation assembly, ultra rods, and upgrade piston rings to handle the boost. Now back to my first comment, if you build the motor for boost and really not n/a you will lose some power n/a. However IMO build the motor once and do it right it will save you when you add the blower. Good luck!
#6
I wanted to buy all the parts for the build and Enjoy the car before I put on the blower on it. Most guys that have taken their blowers off to do an upgrade dyno'd their cars. They made anywhere from high 400's to mid 500's na
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#8
Yeah and here's the thing even after installing the new upgraded blower they were in the low or mid 9xx, and that's the reason why I mentioned 550-600 cause that would pretty much be a guarantee that I hit my mark.
Last edited by SRacing; 11-30-2015 at 08:32 AM. Reason: Misspelled words
#9
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
I just wrapped up a 408 stroker for a turbo build and had it dynoed NA to get some miles on it and also save for the turbo kit. My car put down 440 to the tires on a conservative tune and keeping in mind 9.1 compression. My builder set the motor up to handle over 1000hp but will more than likely not see that as it will be a street car.
With a goal of 1000hp you will need a solid foundation to start with before the procharger. Boost is a crazy thing and can get you all the power you want but the reliability of the motor is what you should worry about. I've seen cam and heads 5.3's with stock bottom ends and displacement throw a turbo on and make over 900hp to the tires. The problem with those set ups would be the motors really are not built to last with that kind of boost.
I would really worry about the bottom end parts and worry about HP when you pro charge it.
With a goal of 1000hp you will need a solid foundation to start with before the procharger. Boost is a crazy thing and can get you all the power you want but the reliability of the motor is what you should worry about. I've seen cam and heads 5.3's with stock bottom ends and displacement throw a turbo on and make over 900hp to the tires. The problem with those set ups would be the motors really are not built to last with that kind of boost.
I would really worry about the bottom end parts and worry about HP when you pro charge it.
#10
I just wrapped up a 408 stroker for a turbo build and had it dynoed NA to get some miles on it and also save for the turbo kit. My car put down 440 to the tires on a conservative tune and keeping in mind 9.1 compression. My builder set the motor up to handle over 1000hp but will more than likely not see that as it will be a street car.
With a goal of 1000hp you will need a solid foundation to start with before the procharger. Boost is a crazy thing and can get you all the power you want but the reliability of the motor is what you should worry about. I've seen cam and heads 5.3's with stock bottom ends and displacement throw a turbo on and make over 900hp to the tires. The problem with those set ups would be the motors really are not built to last with that kind of boost.
I would really worry about the bottom end parts and worry about HP when you pro charge it.
With a goal of 1000hp you will need a solid foundation to start with before the procharger. Boost is a crazy thing and can get you all the power you want but the reliability of the motor is what you should worry about. I've seen cam and heads 5.3's with stock bottom ends and displacement throw a turbo on and make over 900hp to the tires. The problem with those set ups would be the motors really are not built to last with that kind of boost.
I would really worry about the bottom end parts and worry about HP when you pro charge it.
#11
I just wrapped up a 408 stroker for a turbo build and had it dynoed NA to get some miles on it and also save for the turbo kit. My car put down 440 to the tires on a conservative tune and keeping in mind 9.1 compression. My builder set the motor up to handle over 1000hp but will more than likely not see that as it will be a street car.
With a goal of 1000hp you will need a solid foundation to start with before the procharger. Boost is a crazy thing and can get you all the power you want but the reliability of the motor is what you should worry about. I've seen cam and heads 5.3's with stock bottom ends and displacement throw a turbo on and make over 900hp to the tires. The problem with those set ups would be the motors really are not built to last with that kind of boost.
I would really worry about the bottom end parts and worry about HP when you pro charge it.
With a goal of 1000hp you will need a solid foundation to start with before the procharger. Boost is a crazy thing and can get you all the power you want but the reliability of the motor is what you should worry about. I've seen cam and heads 5.3's with stock bottom ends and displacement throw a turbo on and make over 900hp to the tires. The problem with those set ups would be the motors really are not built to last with that kind of boost.
I would really worry about the bottom end parts and worry about HP when you pro charge it.
#14
I'm heading down at the end of this month to meet up with him. He said forged block, Callies rods, Trick Flow heads, wiseco pistons and a few others. My thing is now since where going with the turbo setup how can I still hit my 1k goal and save maybe 2 grand on my build. Where can I cut cost. Next Is $8-8500 reasonable for this kind of a motor build? Or am I being a cheapskate?
#16
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
You can get some costs down by checking the classifieds for good parts people are getting rid of. Cost will depend on parts for example the rods (which when shooting for 1k you don't want to skimp on) can cost $700 but if you go with ultra rods (which you should) those are around $1500. That's just rods so you can see where costs can really add up.
#17
You can get some costs down by checking the classifieds for good parts people are getting rid of. Cost will depend on parts for example the rods (which when shooting for 1k you don't want to skimp on) can cost $700 but if you go with ultra rods (which you should) those are around $1500. That's just rods so you can see where costs can really add up.
#18
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
I have a upgraded factory t56 with upgraded forks and sycro's. Also a centerforce clutch that will need replaced before too long as it was slipping on the dyno. As for the rear I am looking to run either a Moser 12 bolt or 9" or Strange s60 with something around 3.55 gears.
Whats the your trans and rear plans?
Whats the your trans and rear plans?
#19
I have a upgraded factory t56 with upgraded forks and sycro's. Also a centerforce clutch that will need replaced before too long as it was slipping on the dyno. As for the rear I am looking to run either a Moser 12 bolt or 9" or Strange s60 with something around 3.55 gears.
Whats the your trans and rear plans?
Whats the your trans and rear plans?