.......LS1 Carb guys please......... enter?????????
10-18-2008, 04:57 PM
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.......LS1 Carb guys please......... enter????????? I am thinking to go with carburetor Edelbrock but I want to know is there more than one level for edelb carb kit? The car will be daily driver and street. So which size carb do u advice me to buy and which brand buy? How many mpg u get in city and hw?
10-18-2008, 05:10 PM
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Just finished this there are 2 kits from edelbrock 1 is a single plane one is a dual plane.
I am running a holley double pumper with a proform main body 780 cfm, and the edelbrock box with the number 3 pill since it has a cam in it.
Kit is easy to wire up, 2 wires to fire, add a 3rd you got tach.
I am running a holley double pumper with a proform main body 780 cfm, and the edelbrock box with the number 3 pill since it has a cam in it.
Kit is easy to wire up, 2 wires to fire, add a 3rd you got tach.
10-18-2008, 07:12 PM
#3
DO NOT buy the Edelbrock box. The Edelbrock box CANNOT be tuned. It can only use the timing pills all of which have over 36 degrees of timing at WOT. LS1s like around 28.
Get the MSD 6010 box. I am running the Edelbrock Victor JR intake (single plain) with the MSD 6010 box. This box is tunable via a laptop and serial port. You are also able to run a map sensor to increase timing with vacuum i.e. cruise. Here are a few replies i have made to similar posts.
"Ok here we go. I plugged the rear vacuum port on mine.. You could use it for a brake booster or a PCV setup BUT any fitting will hit your carb really. The size of the fitting is 3/8" NPT. You can get those copper fittings from Lowes, Home depot any plumbing store. The hole on the side of the intake below the carb is 1/8" NPT. This is where i hooked up my MAP sensor. I took a piece of 1/8" threaded pipe, threaded it into there, then got a 5/16" or so vacuum hose and fit it over the threaded pipe and then connected that to my MAP sensor.
For a MAP sensor you can use a stock LS1 sensor or use a Map sensor from realy anything just as long as you get the connector for it. The MAP sensor allows you to add more timing at part throttle i.e. while cruising to keep your engine burning more efficiently for ecconomy and such. It is not neccessary.
The timing pills (your capsules) all have WAY too much timing. All of them have over 34 degrees of timing at WOT and LS1s usually dont like anymore than 28 or so. To tune the sofware you will need to download this software and buy a serial cable and a laptop that has a serial port OR you can get a USB to serial adapter cable from radioshack which is like $30.
http://www.msdpowersports.com/prodata_software.html
To tune it you will need to open a up a new map, search through the folders and look for one labeled "6010". That is the box you are using. This will bring up a table to tune with for your box. It starts as a line graph. You ust drag the line up to the desired degrees of timing at the specified rpm. I have my base timing set at 15 degrees and going all in to 28 by 3000rpm. When tuning the sofware you must save your tune to the computer then upload to the msd box. You can monitor the engine live through your laptop too. It will tell you rpm, base timing, total timing, and your MAP pressure in PSI.
Heres the tricky part about tuning with the MAP sensor. It measures in PSI, not HG like most all vacuum measurements are. With the engine off the MAP will read something like 14.6psi. This is atmospheric pressure. When you start the engine you will get a reading like 8.6psi. This shows the engine is pulling 6psi vacauum (14.6-8.6=8psi). 1 psi is roughly equal to 2 inches mercury (HG). Here's a chart
http://www.erowid.org/archive/rhodiu...onversion.html
So once you get used to that you can now add timing based on engine vacuum. I added a total of 10 degrees timing with max vacuum. So when cruising i will have 28 degrees base timing and 38 total timing. The graph for the map sensor is the same tuning method. Rather than have RPM on the x axis it has PSI and on the y axis it has degrees timing advace. It's relitively simple to tune once you get the hang of it.
If you have the Edelbrock box you will not be able to tune the box.
Oh and for hooking up your harness it is labeled for your coil packs (1,3,5,7) on one connector (2,4,6,8) on the other. The cam sensor which is on the back of the engine (towards back of car) right on the lifter valley cover. The crank sensor is right behind you starter motor. Then you will need to add power which is the pink wire, the tach wire is yellow, and gorund is black.
There is also an addition connector with two wires. The pink is a timing retard. When you give 12v to this wire your ignition timing will be retarded by whatever amount (4 degrees or whatever) you set when tuning it. This is for nitrous or whatever. To set the limit it is in the menu on the left of the screen that has rev limit and such. The other wire that is blue is a two step rev limiter. When you give 12v to this wire the engine will not rev above the 'lo rev' you set in your setup. This is for say launching or something. Depending on what MAP sensor you get too there is a menu option that says (1 bar, 2 bar, 3 bar) 1 bar is all you will need if you're not going boosted."
Get the MSD 6010 box. I am running the Edelbrock Victor JR intake (single plain) with the MSD 6010 box. This box is tunable via a laptop and serial port. You are also able to run a map sensor to increase timing with vacuum i.e. cruise. Here are a few replies i have made to similar posts.
"Ok here we go. I plugged the rear vacuum port on mine.. You could use it for a brake booster or a PCV setup BUT any fitting will hit your carb really. The size of the fitting is 3/8" NPT. You can get those copper fittings from Lowes, Home depot any plumbing store. The hole on the side of the intake below the carb is 1/8" NPT. This is where i hooked up my MAP sensor. I took a piece of 1/8" threaded pipe, threaded it into there, then got a 5/16" or so vacuum hose and fit it over the threaded pipe and then connected that to my MAP sensor.
For a MAP sensor you can use a stock LS1 sensor or use a Map sensor from realy anything just as long as you get the connector for it. The MAP sensor allows you to add more timing at part throttle i.e. while cruising to keep your engine burning more efficiently for ecconomy and such. It is not neccessary.
The timing pills (your capsules) all have WAY too much timing. All of them have over 34 degrees of timing at WOT and LS1s usually dont like anymore than 28 or so. To tune the sofware you will need to download this software and buy a serial cable and a laptop that has a serial port OR you can get a USB to serial adapter cable from radioshack which is like $30.
http://www.msdpowersports.com/prodata_software.html
To tune it you will need to open a up a new map, search through the folders and look for one labeled "6010". That is the box you are using. This will bring up a table to tune with for your box. It starts as a line graph. You ust drag the line up to the desired degrees of timing at the specified rpm. I have my base timing set at 15 degrees and going all in to 28 by 3000rpm. When tuning the sofware you must save your tune to the computer then upload to the msd box. You can monitor the engine live through your laptop too. It will tell you rpm, base timing, total timing, and your MAP pressure in PSI.
Heres the tricky part about tuning with the MAP sensor. It measures in PSI, not HG like most all vacuum measurements are. With the engine off the MAP will read something like 14.6psi. This is atmospheric pressure. When you start the engine you will get a reading like 8.6psi. This shows the engine is pulling 6psi vacauum (14.6-8.6=8psi). 1 psi is roughly equal to 2 inches mercury (HG). Here's a chart
http://www.erowid.org/archive/rhodiu...onversion.html
So once you get used to that you can now add timing based on engine vacuum. I added a total of 10 degrees timing with max vacuum. So when cruising i will have 28 degrees base timing and 38 total timing. The graph for the map sensor is the same tuning method. Rather than have RPM on the x axis it has PSI and on the y axis it has degrees timing advace. It's relitively simple to tune once you get the hang of it.
If you have the Edelbrock box you will not be able to tune the box.
Oh and for hooking up your harness it is labeled for your coil packs (1,3,5,7) on one connector (2,4,6,8) on the other. The cam sensor which is on the back of the engine (towards back of car) right on the lifter valley cover. The crank sensor is right behind you starter motor. Then you will need to add power which is the pink wire, the tach wire is yellow, and gorund is black.
There is also an addition connector with two wires. The pink is a timing retard. When you give 12v to this wire your ignition timing will be retarded by whatever amount (4 degrees or whatever) you set when tuning it. This is for nitrous or whatever. To set the limit it is in the menu on the left of the screen that has rev limit and such. The other wire that is blue is a two step rev limiter. When you give 12v to this wire the engine will not rev above the 'lo rev' you set in your setup. This is for say launching or something. Depending on what MAP sensor you get too there is a menu option that says (1 bar, 2 bar, 3 bar) 1 bar is all you will need if you're not going boosted."
10-18-2008, 07:15 PM
#4
As for carburetor size i am running a Holley 750 with vacuum secondaries. I am running approximately 72 jets up front 76 out back (i have adjustable metering plates). I had to up my accelerator pump to a 50cc, my squirter to a #35 and i dropped my power valve down to a 5.0 although i have almost no vacuum with my camshaft. I am about to drop to a 4.0 to see what that does for me. I have been using a Fast dual wideband 02 monitoring system to tune my car as well.
The car is not that bad driving it around town. I would say i get 20mpg (no speed or odometer cant test it) and i run 93 octance. I have a huge cam and 4.56 gears so really thats not that bad. Driveable to me though is having 3" straight pipes, no power steering and no interior right now so your needs may be different.
The car is not that bad driving it around town. I would say i get 20mpg (no speed or odometer cant test it) and i run 93 octance. I have a huge cam and 4.56 gears so really thats not that bad. Driveable to me though is having 3" straight pipes, no power steering and no interior right now so your needs may be different.
10-19-2008, 04:05 AM
#5
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I sow two kit
1st open from 3500-7500 rpm
2nd open 1500-6500 rpm
Which one is better for street and DD?
Could any one help me to find the kit from jegs site?
1st open from 3500-7500 rpm
2nd open 1500-6500 rpm
Which one is better for street and DD?
Could any one help me to find the kit from jegs site?
Last edited by LS1SS4ever; 10-19-2008 at 04:35 AM.
10-19-2008, 05:59 AM
#6
Well i wouldnt buy the "kit Both of the kits use Edelbrock ignition boxes, not MSD boxes.
The kits you are reffering to are just different intake manifolds.
Edelbrock Victor Jr single plane intake - 3500-7500rpm
Edelbrock performer rpm dual plane intake 1500-6500
The kits you are reffering to are just different intake manifolds.
Edelbrock Victor Jr single plane intake - 3500-7500rpm
Edelbrock performer rpm dual plane intake 1500-6500
10-19-2008, 06:43 AM
#7
i would use the msd box(dont know what motor you have, as to the relucter size) i would go with the edelbrock dual plane, and a 750 carb-a Holley might be easier to tune than an Edelbrock, based on your ability, prob a vac sec for the street-the Edelbrock carb will work good, give good milage and driveability, but a little tricky to tune if needed-most people understand the Holley a little better, but back in the 60's all we used was the AFB's(edelbrock style)
the MSD box comes with 6 pills to get you going, and being able to hook up a laptop is a good option
the MSD box comes with 6 pills to get you going, and being able to hook up a laptop is a good option
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10-21-2008, 05:32 AM
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Hi I found msd for carb kit like this link
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD/121/6010/10002/-1
but I did not find Edelbrock Performer RPM intake only
where can i found it with a special throttle and transmission bracket that works with 700R-4 like which in the kit
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD/121/6010/10002/-1
but I did not find Edelbrock Performer RPM intake only
where can i found it with a special throttle and transmission bracket that works with 700R-4 like which in the kit
10-21-2008, 07:04 AM
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If it is a daily driver go with the msd 6010 ignition box, edelbrock performer rpm intake and a holley 650 vacuum secondary carb. You can ruin a daily driver really quick by putting too large a carb on it.
10-21-2008, 09:27 AM
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Thx
10-21-2008, 10:40 AM
#12
The overwhelming majority of guys running carb'd LS motors have 750 and up carbs.
The carb needs to be sized to the engine airflow. Larger displacement engines generally mean more airflow. However, the LS motors flow so much better than the first gen SBC that the old school rules need to be rethought.
Look at how much more HP an LS motor makes compared to a first gen 350. An LS motor should be carb'd more like a 400 than a 350. Especially if you plan any head work or a bigger cam.
The carb needs to be sized to the engine airflow. Larger displacement engines generally mean more airflow. However, the LS motors flow so much better than the first gen SBC that the old school rules need to be rethought.
Look at how much more HP an LS motor makes compared to a first gen 350. An LS motor should be carb'd more like a 400 than a 350. Especially if you plan any head work or a bigger cam.
10-21-2008, 02:25 PM
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Ok I fneshed my parts collection
I will order these parts:
1- PERF RPM LSI MANIFOLD
2- Universal Pro Ratchet Race Shifter
3- MSD 6010 Controller for Carbureted LS1/LS6 For use with 24-tooth reluctor
4- MSD Conductor 8.5mm Wires
5- Edelbrock camshift Performer RPM Power #350-2216
But which fuel pump and regulator fuel? I want max 120 gallon or 7 psi??
And which carb Edelbrock 650 model?? Because there are many types these please help me to find the good choice
which one i buy manual choke or elect?
I will order these parts:
1- PERF RPM LSI MANIFOLD
2- Universal Pro Ratchet Race Shifter
3- MSD 6010 Controller for Carbureted LS1/LS6 For use with 24-tooth reluctor
4- MSD Conductor 8.5mm Wires
5- Edelbrock camshift Performer RPM Power #350-2216
But which fuel pump and regulator fuel? I want max 120 gallon or 7 psi??
And which carb Edelbrock 650 model?? Because there are many types these please help me to find the good choice
which one i buy manual choke or elect?
Last edited by saad94; 10-21-2008 at 02:56 PM.
10-21-2008, 05:46 PM
#15
dont skimp on the fuel pump and regulator, do it right first time. mine is an aero 350 with -10 fuel lines to a -8 regulator, then dropping down to 2 dash 6 feeds one to each bowl. the pump has its own return to tank rather than off the regulator. carb is a demon 750cfm
as for choke i cant advise really as mine isnt a daily driver so i dont run one at all, its a pain initially but soon as it starts to warm up it will idle fine.
as for choke i cant advise really as mine isnt a daily driver so i dont run one at all, its a pain initially but soon as it starts to warm up it will idle fine.
