LS1 Racing

iTrader: (15)

I just got my 77 Camaro/Vortec 4.8-4L80 swap on the road! The car runs great and averaged 24.9 MPG on a 2000 mile round-trip drive from SoCal to Oregon.

What I want to do now is find a way to get rid of the 4" cowl scoop that I need to clear the alternator, intake and the little sensor doo-dad in the attached the pictures.

Does anyone know what this sensor is and I can relocate it somewhere that doesn't force me to have this ridiculous hood? I know a 2" cowl will clear my alternator and intake, but this sensor is in the way.

Suggestions?

pumpkinman

why a 4.8 and not a 6.0?

LUMPY85

it is not needed unless you are keeping the whole emissions system. make a block off plate for it and cap it

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

Evap purge valve, unless you have a vented to charcoal canister fuel tank then you dont need it

LS1 Racing

iTrader: (15)

There's a harness connector on it. Will it set a code or turn on the SES light if I disconnect it?

LS1 Racing

iTrader: (15)

The primary purpose of this car is to commute and get decent performance. A 6.0 would have been faster, but at a cost of 2 or 3 MPG or more. Also a complete, brand new 6.0 (my 4.8 setup had 2 miles on it when I got it) would have been substantially more money because everybody wants them.

JohnHF

iTrader: (5)

i like the idea of the swap, but that 4L80 is robbing some mpg. also dont you have some really high rear end gear, if i remember correctly its in the 2's. i bet a lower gear would actually gain you some mpg, even on the hwy, because your not in the throttle as much to keep it moving

LS1 Racing

iTrader: (15)

You have a good memory! My car has a 2.56 open rear. And you're right on about the mileage. I actually don't use 4th until I'm over 65 MPH. It does much better that way. As for the tranny, I know that it's robbing power and some MPG, but I like the durability factor and it gives me some headroom if I decide someday to go with a stronger motor or add a Maggie.

5.3 racer

iTrader: (8)

Pretty certain it will set a code if disconnected, but any tuner can turn it off. You can thread the hole with a either a 1/8 or 1/4" pipe tap(i forget which size I used) and plug.

MalibuRacing

iTrader: (1)

I removed the evaporator solenoid. Used a hacksaw and cut it near the base. I then used a screw with some sealer to seal off the port in the middle and re-installed it. Wait4Me Performance programmed my PCM and removed the smog codes. See picture below to get an idea of how I did it:

LS1 Racing

iTrader: (15)

That seems like the easiest way to handle it!

Thanks everyone for the input! It'll be nice to get a more reasonable hood!