vetwnab

Ok, I've read a ton of info and even did a search, but haven't come up with a definite answer. I am getting ready to swap an LS1 into a 69 Chevelle. I'm picking up the engine on Friday and the guy has a couple of oil pans laying around that I can grab while I am there. I will probably either run the Edelbrock or the BRP mounts. What pan is going to be the best for me??

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

I would say that the F-body and the CTS-V pans would be my top two choices in that order. I used the F-body pan on mine and it was a tight fit stabbing the engine in there but once you do there is plenty of clearance all around. Some have said they were unable to make the F-body pan fit on their chevelle but with so many who have done it I find it hard to understand. The CTS-V pan will have more clearance but it will hang a bit below the crossmember and therefore be the first thing to hit should the car bottom out. Thirdly there is the LH8 pan from the V8 Hummer H3 and Chevy Colorado trucks, it hangs significantly below the crossmember more so than the CTS-V and is considered unacceptable by me but others have run it. It really depends on how worried you are about bottoming out (lowered cars for example). The other key is when you do get around to stabbing the motor make sure you unbolt the frame stands from the chevelle and bolt them to the LSX motor. That way you can place the motor exactly where it needs to go and redrill the frame stand mounting holes to suit. Hope that helped clear things up a bit lemme know if you have any other questions.

ls1nova99

If interested I have a cts pan for sale.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

If you seach on my post and threads about the CTS-V oil pan, you will find a lot of what I when through.

Here is one
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...rs-needed.html

It will hang down a bit 1"+ but you can always space the engine up to make up some of the pan that hangs below the cross member.. but remember.. the Oil pan is just about where the wheel are.. and if your concern is about speed bump.. your wheels will get you over the bump without hitting the pan...

but like pete and othes have said.. the truck one will just hang way to low..

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

i used a cts oilpan in my 69-i also used the hooker headers and mount adapters, and the 350-454 frame stands
diff adapters will mount the engine in diff places, so not sure how the cts pan will fit with them
the only minor interference is the tie rod ends on lock to lock, they hit the pan, but its minor-this winter when i install the stroker motor, i will cut/weld a little slot for more room-however, if i wasnt pulling the engine, i wouldnt bother-some guys have spaced the engine up a little

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

I'm running the F-body pan in my '71. Just moved the stands on the crossmember and spaced it up to clear the tie rods.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

the f body pan would not work for me, it was hitting the crossmember and the engine was far back..not even room between it and the firewall

i went with the lh8 pan, it is kinda low, but I'm just going to put a skidplate in front/below it for emergencies...so far it hasn't been an issue though

zman1969

iTrader: (91)

well i've been lurking around for the same info -kinda - ls1 a4 in a 64 chevelle wagon. I'm no expert but i thought all a-body frames were the same or were 64-67 different than 68-72?? yet most that have replied here are the latter and some F-body pans worked others didnt - not too encouraging I do think Pistolpete knows Chevelles - isnt he from chevelles.net? seems like the plan I'll do ls1 pan and mount stands on engine and move it around till were happy. the LH8 pan would be ideal - except we may slam the wagon so that low pan is OUT! and since the f-body pan is already on it.... i really wish GM kept the mounts the same as the typical SBC BBC and a standard pan! sure would of made the SBC obsolete! I wont even build a SBC anymore unless its a roller/1 pc seal block. anyway whats done is done. Unfortunately i wont know how this goes till at least next year. so im just doin my research now- thanks for y'alls input

ryanvv355

iTrader: (17)

Champ LSx swap pan, $380 direct

oneslowbowtie

iTrader: (3)

I used a CTS-V pan, moved the frame stands about 1"-1 1/4"back from the original location and used 1/8" spacers under the frame mounts. No problems with the tie rods hitting and it only hangs about 1/2" below the cross member. I only had to ding in the tranny tunnel in a couple of places for the transmission lines and top of the trans tunnel near the firewall-if that makes sense. I have 1 1/2" of clearence between the block and firewall. Hope this helps

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

chevelles.com and there are several of us from there over here too

the chevelle community as a whole doesn't seem too interested in what we're doing

alocker

iTrader: (10)

+1

Its the only way to go. Grab an F-body pan if it comes with the motor and sell it to recoup the cost a little.

Ravenous T\A

iTrader: (12)

anybody try one of these? Its for a LS1 Conversion for 1 Gen Fbodies but looks like it be easier to cut and weld if need be

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

SMAX

iTrader: (11)

I have the moroso pan in the 65 and it fits great, but the AN fittings welded to the pan are at the wrong angle and cause a very bad oil leak. I am currently in contact with someone at moroso and hoping they will replace my pan. If you are considering this pan keep in mind that you have to run a remote oil filter and it is -10 lines and fittings so it isn't cheap.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I used some home made Old style BRP mount from 1/4" steel plates and used the Tall and Narrow EnergySuspension poly mounts with Short and Wide engine stands..move the engine stand back (mounted them to the engine and mounts 1st then dropped them in and position the engine and marked the location for the frame stands.

The pulled everything out and drilled and mounted the frame stands.. I 1st started with the F-body. It would have worked, but as PIA to get in and out.. only had about 1/4" to 3/8" around the pan and between the passenger side head and firewall.

I just felled better with a little more room.. so I then tried the CTS-V pan.. and it gave me more room, I did have to switch to the Tall and Narrow mount when I could have used the S/W with the F-Body pan.

I was going to make some side plates for the front of the pan and cross member, but never got around to it and have not hit the pan yet.

I still have the F-Body pan with some notching on it, but had trouble getting it welded up.. it was just and I just when with the CTS-V pan anyway.. so it is just sitting there a a friends shop till he gets the time to try and re-weld it so that it doesn't leak. Might use it on a swap for my 71 Nova ???

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

As someone else mentioned quite a few of us including me hang around on chevelles.com as well. As far as frames go they are fairly similar in dimensions. Some have theorized that the 64/65 have the least room between the crossmember and the firewall whereas the 66/67 have more and the 68-72 have the most room. I have not personally dealt with anything but my 67 so I cannot comment for certain whether this is true. There has been alot of good info in this thread and I would sum it up as this: the best option is the champ or possibly some other aftermaket pan. Champ has the oil filter built in I believe which is a plus. Second to that would be the F-body and CTS-V pans. The F-body pan is gonna be a tight fit getting the motor stabbed but once it is you have enough room to be safe. The CTS-V pan is probably the best option all around because it doesn't hang much lower than the crossmember and you could build a skid plate to prevent it scraping. Best of all it would be easier to install/remove the motor.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

When I was testing both F-Body and CTS-V pan.. I had to shoe horn and jump on the engine to push it in between the Cross Member and the fire wall. That is why I damaged my AC/Heater box.. and to take the engine back out, I ended up disconnecting the Trans/Bellhousing before I was able to rip the engine back out.

Bottom line is, with the Stock F-Body pan.. it is very tight to install and remove the engine due to the Front Cross member and the Fireway. As Pete said, once it is in, you do have enough room. But just enough, maybe a finger to two at most between the pan and crossmember and head/firewall.

zman1969

iTrader: (91)

anyone have a picture? direct from who?

Pistolpete I thought I recognized you from chevelles, maybe I need to try the CTSV pan and play with mounts then. Wish this all was simpler, like I said before what worked for one didnt for others, anyone want to post up pictures? to me that means 1000s of words



i know when it comes time i want to drop it in and be done- just dreamin here I've worked on enough cars to know it ain't like that

ryanvv355

iTrader: (17)

The Champ pan is the pan you may have seen advertised here on tech for about $430. Champ is the manufacturer and will sell it direct to you much cheaper. I have $380 in mine after shipping.

I prefer it over the Moroso pan because it utilizes a filter adapter right on the pan, no need for a remote filter.







Oh ya, my engine dropped right in using short/wide sbc engine mounts and Chevelle frame stands