best oil pan for a g-body
#1
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best oil pan for a g-body
What is the best OEM oil pan for a G-body swap with a 5.3 motor.I am using
Spohn Performance motor mounts.Also do you have part# and the place with the best price.
Thanks
Dennis
Spohn Performance motor mounts.Also do you have part# and the place with the best price.
Thanks
Dennis
#3
Some would say that the truck pans are a little low, depends what your doing with the car.
I believe a Cadillac CTS-V pan works well also, have a glance at the oil pan sticky and compare pans.
on my car The F-body pan is the perfect depth it sites right level with the engine cradle, it is modified slightly. I think JohnB (the guy that modified my pan) said that the cts-v pan is almost the same as his modified pans.
If that makes sense.
I believe a Cadillac CTS-V pan works well also, have a glance at the oil pan sticky and compare pans.
on my car The F-body pan is the perfect depth it sites right level with the engine cradle, it is modified slightly. I think JohnB (the guy that modified my pan) said that the cts-v pan is almost the same as his modified pans.
If that makes sense.
#6
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Have you guys taken a look at your crossmember lately. Unless it doesn't have a single scratch, I would avoid these truck pans. I have yet to see perfect looking crossmember on any street driven car. Also, the aluminum wont take a hit and bend like a steel pan. Just something to consider.
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I was told that we can run the ctsv pan and its a few incheds shorter so it tucks in better, me personally I'm going to let it hang though, don't have the extra 150 for the ctsv pan right now. Good luck and let us see the progress. Do you have a website where your documenting your progress. I'm in teh process of dropping the lq9 into the monte, nad have problems here and there
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If the pan hangs lower, you risk cracking or busting open the pan. Spending $200-$300 extra instead of seizing my engine or getting stranded is worth it to me.
A race car that pulls the front wheels is a different story. You probably wont kill your car, but I would be pissed if you oiled the track down because your pan hangs 3" below the x-member.
There is a reason you can't find a single factory automobile with the pan hanging below some structural metal.
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Saw it somewhere, one person said to get it off ebay, another said to watch the caddy forum. here is a link to a person who knows a million times more about the swaps than me eh...
http://maliburacing.com/forum/viewto...st=0&sk=t&sd=a
http://maliburacing.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=29
http://maliburacing.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=34
http://maliburacing.com/forum/viewto...st=0&sk=t&sd=a
http://maliburacing.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=29
http://maliburacing.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=34
#12
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CTSV pan or LH8 pan
The lh8 is available through GM with all required parts for around $180.00 (currently backordered)
It is nearly an 1" shorter than the truck pan
CTSV is an 1 1/2" shorter than the truck pan
The lh8 is available through GM with all required parts for around $180.00 (currently backordered)
It is nearly an 1" shorter than the truck pan
CTSV is an 1 1/2" shorter than the truck pan
#14
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Assuming your referring to my post. The crossmember is usually the first to contact the ground whether you drive over an object or bottom the front suspension.
If the pan hangs lower, you risk cracking or busting open the pan. Spending $200-$300 extra instead of seizing my engine or getting stranded is worth it to me.
A race car that pulls the front wheels is a different story. You probably wont kill your car, but I would be pissed if you oiled the track down because your pan hangs 3" below the x-member.
There is a reason you can't find a single factory automobile with the pan hanging below some structural metal.
If the pan hangs lower, you risk cracking or busting open the pan. Spending $200-$300 extra instead of seizing my engine or getting stranded is worth it to me.
A race car that pulls the front wheels is a different story. You probably wont kill your car, but I would be pissed if you oiled the track down because your pan hangs 3" below the x-member.
There is a reason you can't find a single factory automobile with the pan hanging below some structural metal.
that looks lower.
Plus with some of the traps speeds these heavy cars are doing, i'd definitely want a diaper on the car just for the simple fact of being alot safer down track if it were to ever spit something out.
Alot better than some idiots running coolant in there cars when at the track. See more of those than oil downs.
#15
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And no offense, but look at where it hangs in the photo i posted first. Spending extra $$$ on a CSTV pan or whatever, for only 1" of extra clearance? It still hangs down past the crossmember, so what's the point of extra investment? If it is coming down THAT hard, it's gonna be screwing up ALOT more than whatever oil pan you have on it
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For a street car that is not a lowrider, I think the CTS-V pan is the very best choice by far if you dont want to hack on the engine crossmember, etc. I certainly so no reason at all to go with the LH8 over the CTS-V.
CTS-V part numbers here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-oil-pans.html
I updated the post near the end with the dipstick/tube PN's. Get it from gmpartsdirect.com for the best price. Yeah, their shipping sucks, but you still come out ahead on big $ items.
CTS-V part numbers here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-oil-pans.html
I updated the post near the end with the dipstick/tube PN's. Get it from gmpartsdirect.com for the best price. Yeah, their shipping sucks, but you still come out ahead on big $ items.