help.car wont start!!!
#1
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help.car wont start!!!
just got the motor and everything wired up car wont start!!
the car is a 68 camaro with an ls1 with turbo. motor is from a 99 camaro with a t56 and i am using all the wiring from the car. when i turn the key on the security light flashes and wont click or anything but i do hear the box with 2 plugs in it clicking i think it is vats but i dont know anything about it!! any help would be appreciated
the car is a 68 camaro with an ls1 with turbo. motor is from a 99 camaro with a t56 and i am using all the wiring from the car. when i turn the key on the security light flashes and wont click or anything but i do hear the box with 2 plugs in it clicking i think it is vats but i dont know anything about it!! any help would be appreciated
#4
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just got the motor and everything wired up car wont start!!
the car is a 68 camaro with an ls1 with turbo. motor is from a 99 camaro with a t56 and i am using all the wiring from the car. when i turn the key on the security light flashes and wont click or anything but i do hear the box with 2 plugs in it clicking i think it is vats but i dont know anything about it!! any help would be appreciated
the car is a 68 camaro with an ls1 with turbo. motor is from a 99 camaro with a t56 and i am using all the wiring from the car. when i turn the key on the security light flashes and wont click or anything but i do hear the box with 2 plugs in it clicking i think it is vats but i dont know anything about it!! any help would be appreciated
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#9
I had a similar problem. Engine would turn over but not fire or get gas to the plugs. Here's what I found:
Well I finally got it cranked. I found this message by John (Speartech) in an earlier post -
"Also, when you check voltages, you need to check them DURING cranking, not just with the key on. It's very common for people to hook up to an ignition switch terminal that is hot with key on but dead during crank.".
I got to checking my Painless universal fuse panel and my old (55) GM ignition switch last night and I could not find a place to pick up a power lead when the ignition was in both positions. I called Painless first thing this morning and ask where I could pick up that power lead. They said that on the old gm iginition switches, you have to strap ign1 and ign2 together and send that (using their pink ignition lead) to the fuse panel which in turn feeds their pink wire (usually their coil wire) to the pink PCM input. Well I did that and it cranked right up and runs great so far.
The thread has several other items to check. It's over here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-question.html
Good luck
Well I finally got it cranked. I found this message by John (Speartech) in an earlier post -
"Also, when you check voltages, you need to check them DURING cranking, not just with the key on. It's very common for people to hook up to an ignition switch terminal that is hot with key on but dead during crank.".
I got to checking my Painless universal fuse panel and my old (55) GM ignition switch last night and I could not find a place to pick up a power lead when the ignition was in both positions. I called Painless first thing this morning and ask where I could pick up that power lead. They said that on the old gm iginition switches, you have to strap ign1 and ign2 together and send that (using their pink ignition lead) to the fuse panel which in turn feeds their pink wire (usually their coil wire) to the pink PCM input. Well I did that and it cranked right up and runs great so far.
The thread has several other items to check. It's over here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-question.html
Good luck
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it does build pressure but as soon as let go of key it will like drain back into tank or something..i will have to check the polarity, i am sure it is correct since it has a + and - but we will see.. the gauge only jumps to 20lbs or so