Who wants to be the first person to make an LS4 block starter bracket? BRP? Anyone?
#1
Who wants to be the first person to make an LS4 block starter bracket? BRP? Anyone?
I've got my LS4 here and i was trying to explore possibilities for mounting a rear wheel drive transmission to it. Here's why.
The LS4 is an all aluminum 5.3L engine with 243 LS6 heads from the factory.
I know that the MSD 6012 box works for it and that a Victor JR intake will fit it. This engine can be run carbureted.
This engines bolt pattern is the same bolt pattern as any 60* V6 Which include: 2.0L (OHV I4), 2.2L (OHV I4), 2.5L (OHV "Iron Duke" I4), 2.8L (60* V6), 3.0L (90* V6), 3.1L & 3100 (60* V6), 3.3L & 3300 (90* V6), 3.4 & 3400 (60* V6), 3500 (60* V6), 3.6L (60* V6), 3800 (90*V6), 3.9L (60* V6), 4.1L V8, 4.5L V8, 4.9L V8 and the Jeep 2.8L.
These engines can be bought pretty cheaply, the displacement on demand can be tuned out, or lifters swapped out, or just leave the DOD lifters in there if running carbed because their default is DOD off.
This bracket could be mounted on the driver side. It could hold any starter that would fit the flywheel. An LS1 flywheel wont clear the bellhousing so it would have to be a different starter unless they are the same size teeth.
Here are a few pictures of the area we have to work with. What do you all think? Do they make a belt driven starter of some sort for the crank pulley?
The LS4 is an all aluminum 5.3L engine with 243 LS6 heads from the factory.
I know that the MSD 6012 box works for it and that a Victor JR intake will fit it. This engine can be run carbureted.
This engines bolt pattern is the same bolt pattern as any 60* V6 Which include: 2.0L (OHV I4), 2.2L (OHV I4), 2.5L (OHV "Iron Duke" I4), 2.8L (60* V6), 3.0L (90* V6), 3.1L & 3100 (60* V6), 3.3L & 3300 (90* V6), 3.4 & 3400 (60* V6), 3500 (60* V6), 3.6L (60* V6), 3800 (90*V6), 3.9L (60* V6), 4.1L V8, 4.5L V8, 4.9L V8 and the Jeep 2.8L.
These engines can be bought pretty cheaply, the displacement on demand can be tuned out, or lifters swapped out, or just leave the DOD lifters in there if running carbed because their default is DOD off.
This bracket could be mounted on the driver side. It could hold any starter that would fit the flywheel. An LS1 flywheel wont clear the bellhousing so it would have to be a different starter unless they are the same size teeth.
Here are a few pictures of the area we have to work with. What do you all think? Do they make a belt driven starter of some sort for the crank pulley?
#2
FormerVendor
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Ill take a look at it and pass the photos around the shop we have talked about picking up a LS4 for a FWD caddi swap due to its unique design. Have you test fit the carbed intake yet? I know that I have heard they are something like 13mm smaller then a traditional LS1 and I’m not sure how that affects the casting. Shoot any pics you have to info@BRPhotrods.com
#3
Well they are the same exact 243 castings from the LS6/LS2s so the port spacing is the same. And i know one person has successfully fit an LS6 intake on one. The oil vacuum port he is trying to clear is NOT even on my 2007 engine, his is a 2005. I know the Victor JR wouldnt have no clearence with this port anyway as its all the way to the front of the lifter valley.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-front...ng-closer.html
The MSD 6012 will definately work being is uses the LS2 4x cam sensor on the timing cover, and the LS2 58x Reluctor wheel as well as LS2 coils.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-front...ng-closer.html
The MSD 6012 will definately work being is uses the LS2 4x cam sensor on the timing cover, and the LS2 58x Reluctor wheel as well as LS2 coils.
#4
They shortened the accessories and the crank i believe i dont know that the actual block is shortned. The crank pully is almost an inch shorter than the LS1 pulley i have and all the accessories are driven by one belt. I know the bore spacing isnt since they use 243s. The also use a giant water pump that offsets the pulley so it had room to fit sideways. As far as i can tell (just by looking i dont have an LS1 water pump) the LS1 water pump should bolt onto the block and since the LS1 water pump isnt ribbed the shorter crank puller shouldnt affect the belt driving it.
The LS4 uses the LS2 camshaft so that says to me all the cams are interchangeable and it uses the LS2 cam sensor, gears, and chain so i would assume the LS2 timing cover is used on the LS4 and just by looking at where the water pump ports as in relation to that of an LS1 this tells me an LS1 pump will definately work on it.
The LS4 uses the LS2 camshaft so that says to me all the cams are interchangeable and it uses the LS2 cam sensor, gears, and chain so i would assume the LS2 timing cover is used on the LS4 and just by looking at where the water pump ports as in relation to that of an LS1 this tells me an LS1 pump will definately work on it.
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Why do you want to use the LS4 instead of one of the LS-engines from a RWD car? Simply because it's a 5.3L and aluminum? I'd think you'd be likely to grenade any of the RWD transmissions that fit the engine if you do any sort of "upgrades" to the engine.
#6
TECH Junkie
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be a nice light foundation for a cruiser, or make killer power with some boost.
i dont see it being too fast n/a due to the cubes.
can you drill the block? looks like a bit of an angle by the pic, but is there enough meat there?
maybe CNC a piece sto straddle each side of the block in a wedge shape, so the starter bolts on a strait plane. one bolt holding the swedge, and the other going directly into the block.
an idea.
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#8
I think that its thick enough to drill the bolt pattern flange and bolt something through it. I was thinking maybe something could be bolted using longer oil pan bolts too. To be honest i never really though about how much stress a starter puts until i was thinking about how they were made and how they all mount to thick metal areas.
There's also another hole in the block that's not tapped just above the crank sensor that could be use.
Poconojoe you may be onto something. A 3/8" plate that sandwhiches between the block and transmission. That would be very strong. I cant for the life of my find any 18mm wrench in my collection. I have no idea why. So i havent gotten the converter off to see what the flywheel bolt pattern is to see whats interchangeable there.