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Oil pan sealing?

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Old 01-15-2009, 09:09 AM
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Default Oil pan sealing?

Just got my GTO oil pan welded up but I'm concerned about the gaps left inside the pan. I cut the filler plates to fit the opening closely, then had it welded, but there are some very small gaps on the inside between my 0.190" thick plates and the pan (0.175" IIRC). Should I aluminum solder or JB Weld the joint on the inside? Now's the time to do it since it is clean and it would be nearly impossible to seal once the oil is in there.

Thanks,
Mike
Old 01-15-2009, 09:16 AM
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If I was concerned with it I would have it welded, but if it don't leak then don't worry about it. I've tried JB weld before, might slow down leaks but has never completely stop.
Old 01-15-2009, 09:16 AM
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If you have a TIG just melt them closed
Old 01-15-2009, 07:44 PM
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Put some water in it and see if it leaks. If not, you're good to go. If it has to be re-welded, the water is easy to get rid of.
Old 01-15-2009, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1MCSS
Put some water in it and see if it leaks. If not, you're good to go. If it has to be re-welded, the water is easy to get rid of.
Water! What a concept!! :-) Sure wish I'd thought of that.
No sarcasm here - a reminder to self to not overthink the problem!! Just because I have an air compressor doesn't mean it has to be used everywhere. :-))

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Mike
Old 01-15-2009, 10:56 PM
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Water, gas or rubbing alcohol.

When I welded the bung in my trans pan I used gas to check it. I figured the gas was thinner than water so more likely to leak. If I would have had alcohol available I would have used that........thinner solvent = more likely to leak and I wanted to find the leaks before I put that trans pan back up.
Old 01-15-2009, 11:34 PM
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laquer thinner works well also.
Old 01-21-2009, 03:31 PM
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Tried water and found two porosities in the welds. Tried to have them ground out and rewelded but that didn't cure it. I tried some aluminum solder, which flowed on beautifully then cracked as it cooled. %^&*()_ and other terms.

Any suggestions as to some non-metallic solutions? JB Weld? Devcon Metal Repair epoxies??

Thanks,
Leaky Mike
Old 01-23-2009, 01:34 PM
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Wicking grade loctite threadlocker. I've got #290, but I tink any wicking grade will do. I've used it before to seal up porosity in an aluminum fuel tank I made for an open wheel formula car. It's the same stuff that they use when they say they are impregnating a casting to get it to stop leaking. Last I checked the gas tank had never leaked and it's had everything from straight gasoline to ethanol and methonal in it through some different fuel system conversions.

Heat the pan up pretty hot to boil anything out then clean the area with rubbing alcohol and let the alcohol leak through the porosity then cool down. Heat it up again to around 150F then apply loctite (it must be for already assembled fasteners). As it cools the contracting air in the porosity will pull the loctite in and then it will set up because the porosity is generally the same size gaps as fasteners have in them. If u've got access to a vacuum tank it works even better. That's what they use to do the castings. The vacuum helps draw it in too.
Old 01-24-2009, 06:10 PM
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Take it to a professional shop and have them go over the welds with a TIG.

It takes some practice, but a good weld should not leak.



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