kackley

iTrader: (4)

ok i'm going to be starting my project soon of doing a notch back with a ls1..i have a 98 trans am that i ve been working on for the past few years and i think its time to do something else to play with...ive always liked the the fox mustangs and i want to do the ls1 swap in one...i've done alot of searching and reading on here bout the swaps but i have some questions

any info or pics will be greatly helpful and i would really be thankful

ok my questions are like what does everybody that has done the swap think work the best for it and on a budget ....i kno to use super coupe pedals for the t56...im planing on get a AJE k-member but is it just as easy to use a 4.6 with the 4.6 mounts modified..Radiator? .do you use the ls1 or the fox mustang...umm cross memeber for the t56?.....drive shaft what works the best for that ..i read a 4cly with different u-joints ?....my biggest concern is right now is how to do the wiring ...like im so not sure bout it cuz ive never done anything like this.i see some guys used the complete f-body with the gauge cluster and everything but some still had the factory ford starter silienoid...i read place speartech makes one is that true?....like i kno i have a bunch more..like fuel system and other crap but for now thats enought info ..



thanks guys, mark

72Elkytpi

iTrader: (47)

The wiring is fine, just get a seperate ls1 harness and unpluf the fox harness. Everything else will work fine.

LS1hatchback

iTrader: (5)

Problem with using the 4.6 k member is that you need to use the 96+ spindles to correct the bumpsteer. Using the modular spindles will make the front wheels stick out noticeably. Looks really shitty IMO unless you use rear SN95 axles which make using a large tire more difficult. I'm in the middle of this swap and had a 4.6 k member but just sold it due to the fact that I want standard fox wheel spacing. I've been looking at using the AJE k member and having headers fabricated but not 100% on that decision. On the wiring I would send it off and have someone like Speartech make it into a standalone unless you're good with wiring yourself. You can make the mustang gauges work. Not sure on the details yet as my buddy is going to help me with that. Fuel system I'm just running a GSS340 in tank and using the stock lines to the engine bay. They make fittings that will convert the hardline to a AN fitting and I'll be using an aftermarket FPR and fuel rail with AN fittings. As far as radiator... use a Fbody radiator and fan. Hope this helps you some.

kackley

iTrader: (4)

thanks guys ..that info is really helpful

Big_Bird_WS6

iTrader: (7)

i am doing a ls1 in a sn95( well a 01). wiring is the only issue. i can get the motor to run that is the easy part. the hard part is getting the gauges and stuff to work. thining about just going to mechal gauges.

also is there any wirers under the hood that can get deleted?

BlackTA96

iTrader: (3)

When doin the swap do you have to keep the computer from the mustang in there still?
Like the run the gauges and what not?

I'm thinkin bout doin the swap in my 97 gt

kackley

iTrader: (4)

thats the same thing im wondering

GlennNo50

Negative, Both are basically stand alone systems. Running the stock gauges is tricky but there are ways.

kackley

iTrader: (4)

would it just be alot easier to just use the f-body harness and cluster ??...i saw a few of the swaps were the guys did that

BlackTA96

iTrader: (3)

Do you know how to get them to work?

screaminChick-n

if u want to use the stock gauges just remove the sending unit from ur stock engine and find places for it on the LS1. drill and tap. u will have double the sending units one for the LS1 pcm and one set for the gauges. for the speedo and tach u can get a black box.

BlackTA96

iTrader: (3)

black box??

GlennNo50

Thats what we are doing. Haven't tackled it yet so I don't know how difficult it will be. I my opinion i would rather modify the dash to fit the gauge cluster than drill and tap the motor.

I am sure Speartech or one of the other wiring companies could make things work with one of there wiring harnesses.

kackley

iTrader: (4)

yeah i think i would prefer the gm cluster.....i prefer to stay away from buyn a aftermaket harness to save money but im not to good with wiring so thats why im tryn to learn as much as possible about what other people have done

Vcious04

iTrader: (16)

The 4.6 info above is incorrect. I used a AJE 4.6 Tubular K-Member with modified 4.6 mounts (single side bolt extended 1") fits right on. I however did use AJE tubular control arms with coil overs but I did have the stock control arms with spring perch's. I know this works for a FACT and the wheels sit at factory location..

What you are going is great, research, research, research. I would use a factory LS1 wiring harness and find a factory F-Body gauge cluster.

For headers, If you do not want spend a crap load on fabbed or swap specific headers, I used a set of Hooker Super Comp 351 swap headers. Believe it or not, the tubes are identical to the exhaust spacing on a LS1. Go to scoggin dickey and buy some 3/8" ls1 header flanges and cut the factory hooker flanges off and weld them on. Works great and only cost $400 total.

Good luck!

kackley

iTrader: (4)

thanks ....i saw alot of the guys using the 351 header mod...like i was planning on buyn a AJE tublar k-member with the gm mounts cuz it would look good and the motor would be positiond right ...understand why i was thinkn of buyn that ......my main concern is getting everything and then having steering shaft issues....

im buyn a donor car for the swap so getting all the wiring and gauge cluster from a f-body is no problem.....with that do i just basically hook it up like i would if i was just putting it in another f-body and then splice the mustang inteior and head lights and stuff in to the gm harness?...like ive seen where some guys used the gm harness and stuff but had the factory ford starter soleniode ......i dotn understand why with that and is that something i would have to do ?

Vcious04

iTrader: (16)

Easiest/cheapest and my opinion the best thing to do is the following..

#1. Order a AJE K-Member for a 4.6 swap (not the lsx sbc)

#2. Get some factory 4.6 mounts and modify them, VERY easy

#3. Buy some hooker super comp 351 swap headers (used dime a dozen and cheap, the above combo will put the headers were they need to be, ie steering shaft)

#4. Scoggin Dickey 3/8" Header flanges, cut the hookers off and weld these on, or have em done at an exhaust shop

#5. Summit racing Manual rack and pinion (made by Unisteer, but much cheaper)

#6. Stock Wiring harness modified by Speartech (If you plan on EFI) or just use the factory harness.

#7. Stock GM cluster backing with guages, but some plexiglass (painted black) at home depot and fab up your own setup (Not that hard) and install in factory fox cluster assembly (square shaped).

#8. Wire your ignition switch to a stock LS1 starter (has solenoid built in anyways) and of coarse to the PCM/Harness.

#9. Have a custom driveshaft made (I spent $200, Fort Worth gear and axle)

#10 Get a FRPP adjustable crossmember ($75)

#11 Get a universal spark plug wire kit from Accell, fab up your own wires

Thats kinda the basics.. Just my .02

kackley

iTrader: (4)

thanks dude ....thats was the help i was looking for .....dude you just made my research easy....and this is why i love this site because awesome people that are willing to provide info

kackley

iTrader: (4)

like i was thinkng if i wire the ignition switch to the pcm what about key code ...you kno what i mean ??....

Vcious04

iTrader: (16)

If I recall correctly, the "chip" in the key is integrated in the ignition switch to tell the tumblers to send a signal to the pcm for spark. Using a universal ignition switch with the correct wiriing to the pcm should be suffecient.