need exhaust manifold advice (240sx)
05-11-2009, 11:43 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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need exhaust manifold advice (240sx) my motor is in a 240sx hatchback - the problem i am at now is the exhaust manifolds. the truck manifold i thought would fit hit the steering shaft. Here's a pic of how tight the fitment is...
the only "stock" manifolds i'm told that can be modded to fit are the early style (97) corvette steel manifolds. And i'm not gonna pay $700+ for headers (more than i paid for my motor or trans).
so,
1. does anyone have a set of these vette manifolds they would sell me?
2. did any of you 240 guys modify stock manifolds for your setup?
the only "stock" manifolds i'm told that can be modded to fit are the early style (97) corvette steel manifolds. And i'm not gonna pay $700+ for headers (more than i paid for my motor or trans).
so,
1. does anyone have a set of these vette manifolds they would sell me?
2. did any of you 240 guys modify stock manifolds for your setup?
05-12-2009, 05:42 AM
#3
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I modified a set for my s13.
$85 isnt a bad price but they often go for less.
I always thought a set of early fbody manifolds would have a good chance of fitting as well.
$85 isnt a bad price but they often go for less.
I always thought a set of early fbody manifolds would have a good chance of fitting as well.
05-12-2009, 10:37 AM
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New Corvette 2 1/2 inch Ram Horns from Speedwaymotors, I just paid $141.81 delivered. They are being installed on my LT1 installed in a Jaguar where "tight" around the steering is given a new meaning.
05-12-2009, 04:18 PM
#7
Staging Lane
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noclassic, your manifolds are my reasoning behind looking into going that direction.
the only problem with f-body manifolds is they are iron & i was under the impression iron can't be welded, it has to be brazed? and that it's not worth the trouble and money to modify them.
the only problem with f-body manifolds is they are iron & i was under the impression iron can't be welded, it has to be brazed? and that it's not worth the trouble and money to modify them.
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05-12-2009, 09:57 PM
#9
I modified a set of 97 Vette stamped steel manifolds for my app, then sent them out to be creamic coated.
Here is the passenger side, I can not find one of the drivers side.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Here is the passenger side, I can not find one of the drivers side.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
05-12-2009, 11:14 PM
#10
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Stev0n, I'm in the same boat as you. I saw Noclassic's modifed C5 headers and I'm looking for a set too! Not trying to highjack, but if anyone else has some stock C5 headers, I'm in the market as well.
Stev0n, not to get off subject but you running a 5.3 too, right? Have you already modified your Harness, if so. What is needed to run the T56?
Stev0n, not to get off subject but you running a 5.3 too, right? Have you already modified your Harness, if so. What is needed to run the T56?
05-12-2009, 11:28 PM
#11
The early F-Body maybe a option if the exit location is correct for your 240.. Vette one are normally center exit location, F-body is more rearwards and the Truck are even more rearward but also tend to be wider. The Early F-body were Stainless Steel, doubled wall construction.
05-13-2009, 12:23 AM
#12
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Stev0n, I'm in the same boat as you. I saw Noclassic's modifed C5 headers and I'm looking for a set too! Not trying to highjack, but if anyone else has some stock C5 headers, I'm in the market as well.
Stev0n, not to get off subject but you running a 5.3 too, right? Have you already modified your Harness, if so. What is needed to run the T56?
Stev0n, not to get off subject but you running a 5.3 too, right? Have you already modified your Harness, if so. What is needed to run the T56?
05-17-2009, 07:11 AM
#15
I got some. Sorta. I bought them on Ebay for $50 and another $50 to ship them. A guy in South Carolina is doing my swap and they didn't fit so I had to get him some C6's , Maybe I can get him to PM you his Paypal and you can pay him to send them. I'll take $25 + whatever S&H is. You can see one of them in this thread. PM me for any more info so we can stay out of this mans thread.
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opps, re-read the thread. My exhaust is 2001 cast iron.
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opps, re-read the thread. My exhaust is 2001 cast iron.
Last edited by squalor; 05-17-2009 at 08:37 PM. Reason: off topic
07-05-2009, 10:37 PM
#17
I modified the C5 stamped steel headers based on Noclassics setup. Just some words of caution. It's two layers of stamped steel, and my welder had a real difficult time welding to it. They might also be stainless? There's also a layer of insulation material between them, be sure to wear a good face mask when cutting it.
Anyway, the driver's side is a real pain to get right. Here's my version.
Anyway, the driver's side is a real pain to get right. Here's my version.
07-06-2009, 01:37 AM
#18
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When you say welder are you talking about a person or the machine you are using?
I had no problem with a low end hobart 110 volt mig I have at home. On my set the insulation material appeared to be woven metallic strands so I doubt there is any danger of inhalation. It was only near the collector portion of the manifold so I just pulled what was left out before welding.
From what it looks like you or the person that is welding is just ignoring basic proper practice. Preparation is key, especially when working with heavily oxidized used parts. You need to be welding clean bare metal to clean bare metal. Including the inner surface of the parts to me welded. Anything on the surface(outer or inner) is going to contaminate the weld.
I would just cut that apart and start over.
I had no problem with a low end hobart 110 volt mig I have at home. On my set the insulation material appeared to be woven metallic strands so I doubt there is any danger of inhalation. It was only near the collector portion of the manifold so I just pulled what was left out before welding.
From what it looks like you or the person that is welding is just ignoring basic proper practice. Preparation is key, especially when working with heavily oxidized used parts. You need to be welding clean bare metal to clean bare metal. Including the inner surface of the parts to me welded. Anything on the surface(outer or inner) is going to contaminate the weld.
I would just cut that apart and start over.
