Crank Pulley Swap
06-05-2009, 09:18 PM
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Crank Pulley Swap Ok, I've been searching around and haven't seen the info I'm looking for. I picked up a L33 to swap into my 97 Nissan 240sx and I have to run F-body accessories to clear my hood and radiator. So, I've picked up all the F-Body accessory brackets as well as a F-body Crank Pulley, but I guess I need to know if the Truck and F-Body Pulleys are balanced to the specific engine or if I can just swap them out?
06-05-2009, 10:09 PM
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Really, great.
This was 1 of the articles, I came across but it doesn't shad any light on the issue.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ide/index.html
This was 1 of the articles, I came across but it doesn't shad any light on the issue.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ide/index.html
06-06-2009, 10:45 AM
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I did just what you are talking about f body pump with truck accessories. Pulled the f body pulley off and had the truck pulley pressed onto the f body pump. here is a picture.
06-06-2009, 11:16 AM
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I do have all the accessory brackets, but my concern is the actual Crank Pullies. My buddy was talking with a guy that is a GM mechanic and he thought that some years the entire rotating assembly was balanced with the Pulley, which would cause some major problems if I swapped the Crank Pullies.
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06-06-2009, 03:02 PM
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They are usually called balancers and they are zero balanced. As you can tell they have no keyway so there is no "correct" orientation for installation and they can be freely exchanged engine to engine so long as their depth matches the pulley set up you want to use.
06-15-2009, 11:53 AM
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Ok, new question. How are you guys reinstalling your pullies after the swap. I've picked up 2 Harmonic Balancer install kits from my local parts stores and neither of them will work for this engine. Any recommended stores that rent the installation tool. My local Orielly's and Autozone have the same install tool and it sucks.
06-15-2009, 09:09 PM
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Many guys use a piece of 'all thread' (or ready rod some people call it) and a couple of washers and nuts. Take your balancer bolt into a fastener supply shop and get some all thread thats the same, get the nuts and washers too.
Thread the all thread into the crank almost all the way (dont bottom it out), line up pulley with the snout and slide on your washers and thread a nut on. You might even want grease things up there too to help things out. Thighten the nut down and the balancer should go. Dont bind it up tho, and make sure that you have lots of threads into the crank, you could pull the threads out, and then you are in trouble.
Someone will post on here to put the pulley in an oven and bake it at 200*F for a while. I recommend not doing that, there is rubber there, and heat and rubber usually dont mix. And you could risk damaging the front cover seal with a hot pulley snout.
There is a tool that floats its way around here quite often, do a search for it and you should find it.
Thread the all thread into the crank almost all the way (dont bottom it out), line up pulley with the snout and slide on your washers and thread a nut on. You might even want grease things up there too to help things out. Thighten the nut down and the balancer should go. Dont bind it up tho, and make sure that you have lots of threads into the crank, you could pull the threads out, and then you are in trouble.
Someone will post on here to put the pulley in an oven and bake it at 200*F for a while. I recommend not doing that, there is rubber there, and heat and rubber usually dont mix. And you could risk damaging the front cover seal with a hot pulley snout.
There is a tool that floats its way around here quite often, do a search for it and you should find it.
06-16-2009, 05:57 PM
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I heated my crank pulley at 350 for 20 min. The pulley slid right on the crankshaft with no effort at all. I guess you could possibly damage the front rubber seal, but the crankshaft and pullies already get hot during normal engine operation.
