4-67 A body,LS1,2004r swap
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4-67 A body,LS1,2004r swap
ok so i have the motor,trans and am ready to figure this thing out. I have read any and all threads I can find however the ever lingering question.
I have the motor 98 LS1 from F body
I was planning on using
Edelbrock headers
SBC enging side mounts and OEM chevelle V8 frame stands
Autokraft pan
Here is the deal I know B-Man's steering linkage hits the pan lock to lock, that will not do.
Was thinking about the S&P modified pan
Do not want it to hang below the crossmember.
Any one else with this setup and the autokraft?
Or what is a better plan of attack for the mounts?
I was also considering using the new rack and pinion set up out for early A bodys to for the hell of it as well as taking care of clearance issues with the steering box and what not.
Now with this I am going to guess then I wont have to worry about clearance issues with the pan. Howeve I have not seen a picture of this rack in a car so I have no idea how high it really sits.
I found this kit on Performance Online for 1150.00
VS the flaming river kit for 2500!!! Same style setup maybe not as beefy though.
Anythoughts on this
I have the motor 98 LS1 from F body
I was planning on using
Edelbrock headers
SBC enging side mounts and OEM chevelle V8 frame stands
Autokraft pan
Here is the deal I know B-Man's steering linkage hits the pan lock to lock, that will not do.
Was thinking about the S&P modified pan
Do not want it to hang below the crossmember.
Any one else with this setup and the autokraft?
Or what is a better plan of attack for the mounts?
I was also considering using the new rack and pinion set up out for early A bodys to for the hell of it as well as taking care of clearance issues with the steering box and what not.
Now with this I am going to guess then I wont have to worry about clearance issues with the pan. Howeve I have not seen a picture of this rack in a car so I have no idea how high it really sits.
I found this kit on Performance Online for 1150.00
VS the flaming river kit for 2500!!! Same style setup maybe not as beefy though.
Anythoughts on this
#2
TECH Enthusiast
I used the s&p modified pan, and have about 1/4" clearence between the tie rods and the pan,also I have a 4l80e trans which pushed my motor foward and down to have room in the trans tunnel - you should have a little more room to play with . as far as i know the f body pan has the most room up front for tie rod clearence ,weather it be an s&p or not . I used energy sus. tall mounts with short frame stands with 2 spacer plates in between, it took a LOT of experimenting to get it right . If you click on my link there are plenty of pics , if you need a pic or measurement or part # let me know . JOHN
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THanks John I will take a look, I saw that thread but could not really decipher what you ended up doing. I will look again today. I do know that the 4l80 poses a whole new ball game for front to rear from what I have read, not sure though, due to its size.
#4
I used the F-body pan and accessories. Although I used the unmodified pan, I personally would recommend using something like a S&P notched pan. It "fits" unmodified but it will require a lot of clearancing effort on the stock trans tunnel for even just the 4L60e. You can see my blog for pictures; I went through several of these decision points you face also.
If you go with the rack/pinion then you also save yourself from clearance issues between the alternator and the factory steering box (assuming again, you're using the F-body accesories) as well as saving yourself clearance issues with the knuckles and the oil pan. I raised my motor about 3/8" and that's all I needed to clear oil pan/knuckles but still had to grind the steering box and will have to go with a U-Joint in place of the Rag-Joint for the alternator. I'm using the "tall/narrow" 68 Chevelle mounts. Actually, John_67 and I have been going back and forth on that a little bit before.
Good luck!
If you go with the rack/pinion then you also save yourself from clearance issues between the alternator and the factory steering box (assuming again, you're using the F-body accesories) as well as saving yourself clearance issues with the knuckles and the oil pan. I raised my motor about 3/8" and that's all I needed to clear oil pan/knuckles but still had to grind the steering box and will have to go with a U-Joint in place of the Rag-Joint for the alternator. I'm using the "tall/narrow" 68 Chevelle mounts. Actually, John_67 and I have been going back and forth on that a little bit before.
Good luck!
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Here's a good one how about on the 64-67 A bodys using that era Chevelle Frame Mount???
It looks like it will throw it in a different location versus the straight up 65-72
I have a set of these laying around and will see how they work.
Any thoughts on this using the "orig" mounting holes in the frame?
Between the earlly and late frames in relation to the frame mounts?
I have ordered my S&P pan today
Edelbrock headers
bilstien shocks
moog ball joints
Hotchkiss Steering linkage
Not sure on the brakes set up yet
trying to figure out to get the Performance online 11" complete disc brake setup with the spindles,plates,bearings,slotted rotors Etc for 577 plus ship
or buy the Wilwood system for 839. and use my old spindles
Hard to justify the near 300 dollars more I won't be road racing it, it will be more for looks I guess. I will be running Hydro boost so either way should have plent of brake pressure versus Power booster.
Not sure
It looks like it will throw it in a different location versus the straight up 65-72
I have a set of these laying around and will see how they work.
Any thoughts on this using the "orig" mounting holes in the frame?
Between the earlly and late frames in relation to the frame mounts?
I have ordered my S&P pan today
Edelbrock headers
bilstien shocks
moog ball joints
Hotchkiss Steering linkage
Not sure on the brakes set up yet
trying to figure out to get the Performance online 11" complete disc brake setup with the spindles,plates,bearings,slotted rotors Etc for 577 plus ship
or buy the Wilwood system for 839. and use my old spindles
Hard to justify the near 300 dollars more I won't be road racing it, it will be more for looks I guess. I will be running Hydro boost so either way should have plent of brake pressure versus Power booster.
Not sure
Last edited by gto65lvr; 08-19-2009 at 01:25 PM.
#6
Here's a good one how about on the 64-67 A bodys using that era Chevelle Frame Mount???
It looks like it will throw it in a different location versus the straight up 65-72
I have a set of these laying around and will see how they work.
Any thoughts on this using the "orig" mounting holes in the frame?
Between the earlly and late frames in relation to the frame mounts?
I have ordered my S&P pan today
Edelbrock headers
bilstien shocks
moog ball joints
Hotchkiss Steering linkage
Not sure on the brakes set up yet
trying to figure out to get the Performance online 11" complete disc brake setup with the spindles,plates,bearings,slotted rotors Etc for 577 plus ship
or buy the Wilwood system for 839. and use my old spindles
Hard to justify the near 300 dollars more I won't be road racing it, it will be more for looks I guess. I will be running Hydro boost so either way should have plent of brake pressure versus Power booster.
Not sure
It looks like it will throw it in a different location versus the straight up 65-72
I have a set of these laying around and will see how they work.
Any thoughts on this using the "orig" mounting holes in the frame?
Between the earlly and late frames in relation to the frame mounts?
I have ordered my S&P pan today
Edelbrock headers
bilstien shocks
moog ball joints
Hotchkiss Steering linkage
Not sure on the brakes set up yet
trying to figure out to get the Performance online 11" complete disc brake setup with the spindles,plates,bearings,slotted rotors Etc for 577 plus ship
or buy the Wilwood system for 839. and use my old spindles
Hard to justify the near 300 dollars more I won't be road racing it, it will be more for looks I guess. I will be running Hydro boost so either way should have plent of brake pressure versus Power booster.
Not sure
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Got a little done today tore down the motor for the new cam,springs,modified oil pan. Took some pics of the car and am now waiting for the parts to come in next week so I can continue. I have the car on a 67 frame from a junked car while the orig convert frame sits outside waiting to be reblasted with the front control arms and the 9" rear I have, it is used but setup for the A body and is a couple inches total narrower than the 8.2 rear.
cam specs are 224/228 @50 581/588 lift 112 sep comp cam should be ok for street
cam specs are 224/228 @50 581/588 lift 112 sep comp cam should be ok for street
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#8
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Parts starting to arrive moog ball joints, steering linkage,bilstein shocks, melling oil pump,already have had the Spectre EFI gas tank,
The Patrot valve springs, other shocks, brake system on the way
Received my Edelbrock headers in typical UPS fashion, Small ding and box had hole in it scraped off coating on the mounting flange at a bolt hole, F&%$ing holes
Installing new cam, chain, pump Waiting for my S&P pan
Perfect fit just have to shave off the Head rest portion of the seats so they don't sit so high
Front seats work alright no headrests sits too high. Plenty of room for custom door panels to sculpture in speaker mounting. Eithher will recover and change color or will just install inserts in the center to mimick 65 pattern not sure
Black gets way too hot and I am partial to blue when it comes to this car
The Patrot valve springs, other shocks, brake system on the way
Received my Edelbrock headers in typical UPS fashion, Small ding and box had hole in it scraped off coating on the mounting flange at a bolt hole, F&%$ing holes
Installing new cam, chain, pump Waiting for my S&P pan
Perfect fit just have to shave off the Head rest portion of the seats so they don't sit so high
Front seats work alright no headrests sits too high. Plenty of room for custom door panels to sculpture in speaker mounting. Eithher will recover and change color or will just install inserts in the center to mimick 65 pattern not sure
Black gets way too hot and I am partial to blue when it comes to this car
Last edited by gto65lvr; 08-26-2009 at 04:14 PM.
#9
Just finished this exact swap into a 67 skylark ( A BODY). Used CTS-V Pan, edelbrock plates, and spaced the motor up 5/8" off the factory 64-67 frame stands, for oil pan to steering linkage clearance, and to give some extra breathing room to the power steering pump. Everything fit nice, I did move the frame stands back a little though, because the car already had a 200r4, and i didn't want to move the crossmember or trans, as that would have required driveshaft modification. Came out nice though, ill post pics tonight
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got my pan on and am trial fitting the engine with the PS steering box with chevelle 68-72 stands man even with a 5.8 or so spacer under the engine stands it is still so close everything has to be withing mere fractions of an inch. I am trial fitting on the same era frame vs the one I am using because I am in the process of redoing the orig frame separate, car is on another roller for resto. I am going to play with it a little more then just might say screw it and buy the KWIK Performance brackets so I can mount it easily and not worry about the nats *** placement. Yeah more money but no worrys about a freaking thing. Almost worth the 287 for the alternator and PS pump mounting brkt for the F body accessories. I was going ot buy the AC one from them anyways.
hmmm
hmmm
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Got the frame sandblasted and tried to fit the engine in the car then decided yup I will move get the KWIK brackets I want AC too and cannot get the Edelbrock headers to fit with the alternator down low. I also dont want to raise the engine up so high that the trans is forced extremly close to the trans tunnel against the floor, one just because tight fit and 2 heat from trans into passenger compartment. The way it it seems to be fitting in my car the Alternator is way over onto the Steering box. I just dont want any chance of rattles from the headers to exhaust or alt to box.
The rear end had adapters thought they were for 5 x 475 they were still 5 x4.5 wierd? must have been used for 1 inch spacers pretty goofy. So the meats are the only wheels I had laying around that had the right bolt pattern, good for visuals I guess. Gonna have the Axles bolt pattern redrilled for 4.75 I live about 20 minutes from Dutchman so that will work out great. Although they are kinda expensive compared to others
Here is what I did today from a bare frame and messing with the car too
Will have to change the upper mounts on the rear end to the proper tab and bushing no big deal
Well cannot do a whole lot more until my PST bushings come in then I can assemble the A Arms and mock up the front suspension to make sure my steering linkage is going to clear the pan ok before I go painting an putting everything in stone.
The rear end had adapters thought they were for 5 x 475 they were still 5 x4.5 wierd? must have been used for 1 inch spacers pretty goofy. So the meats are the only wheels I had laying around that had the right bolt pattern, good for visuals I guess. Gonna have the Axles bolt pattern redrilled for 4.75 I live about 20 minutes from Dutchman so that will work out great. Although they are kinda expensive compared to others
Here is what I did today from a bare frame and messing with the car too
Will have to change the upper mounts on the rear end to the proper tab and bushing no big deal
Well cannot do a whole lot more until my PST bushings come in then I can assemble the A Arms and mock up the front suspension to make sure my steering linkage is going to clear the pan ok before I go painting an putting everything in stone.
Last edited by gto65lvr; 08-29-2009 at 01:11 AM.
#12
The front steering linkage will be super close to the pan, I used the CTS V pan. I might have forgot to mention, I moved the motor back by relocating the frame stands back probably another 3/8 of an inch, from what the edelbrock plates already had build into them. This helped with crossmember clearance to the sump of the pan, which was touching a little too much. The car had buick mounts originaly, so while i was switching them to chevy stands, i just moved them rearward. What I did was sit a bare aluminum block that I have in the car, bolted to the transmission, with the mounts, plates and frame stands bolted to the block also. I sat it down on the Xmember where it was happy, checked clearance on the pan, P/S pulley, and steering linkage. The pulley almost hit, the steering linkage was hitting the front of the pan. I could see that the motor had to come rearward to match the position of the trans, and determined that the spacers were necessary to move the motor up higher to clear the steering linkage, and give some breathing room to the crossmember and the P/S pulley. A LH8 Pan would have made this a little easier, but i didn't dig the low hanging sump. with this setup and the CTS-V pan, it tucks up completley flush with the crossmember.
Also, the alternator (smaller truck 105 amp, not the larger 130) barely hit the bottom of the hood cross-brace. I put a little 1" notch where the alternator top was touching. I don't notice any heat problems when driving the car, the trans still has decent room between the trans top and the tunnel. Those kwik brackets are nice stuff though, just gotta decide if its worth the $$$$ for the convienience
Good luck!
Also, the alternator (smaller truck 105 amp, not the larger 130) barely hit the bottom of the hood cross-brace. I put a little 1" notch where the alternator top was touching. I don't notice any heat problems when driving the car, the trans still has decent room between the trans top and the tunnel. Those kwik brackets are nice stuff though, just gotta decide if its worth the $$$$ for the convienience
Good luck!