4strokeforce

I've started gathering parts for a LS1 swap. When it comes to motor mounts I'm not sure which one to use. When I bought the car it had an 265 from -56 installed. Now I don't know if I have to buy everything new or if I can reuse some parts.

The motor mounts is in two parts (one on the car and one on the engine) and I'll post pictures of both. It would be very good if someone could confirm which parts I can reuse.
Thanks.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

You can use the Frame stand, just buy a good poly engine mount (Energysuspension?) and a Adapter plate (your choice depending on you want or need the engine to sit)..

Messure the width of the frame mount. If the with of the frame mount were the through bolt goes is 2 5/8", the it will use the short and wide engine mount. If 2 3/8", it is using the Tall and Narrow mount.

The trouble with swaps.. Is that mixing and matching parts can be troublesome if you start with one unknown part or someone has already used some different parts.

Then again, Mix and Matching can give you different results as to how and where the engine will sit, which can be a good thing. Cause that is how you can adjust the placement of the engine. Higher or lower, back or front.

4strokeforce

Thanks bczee for a perfect answer. Now I know which way to go.

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

That is not a 69 frame stand. That is a 64-67 frame stand. You will need either a set of bb/350 stands or 307 stands. When used in conjunction with the correct engine mounts they both have the same installed height. You pretty much have to remove the lower control arms to change the frame stands.

LQ9CHEVELLE

iTrader: (2)

No need to remove lower control arms.....just have a buddy put some tape over one side of a box ended wrench, and hold the bolt while you slip the new frame stand on, and put the nut back on. Having a battery impact (14.4 makita, etc) makes this way easier, as it will run the bolts down quickly, so you dont have to fiddle around with a ratchet, risking dropping the bolt down into the frame. Ive done quite a few this way, super easy if you got 2 people and some masking tape

LQ9CHEVELLE

iTrader: (2)

Oh yea......use 68-72 frame brackets & mounts, edelbrock A body plates, and a CTS-V pan. It practically falls into place, fits great, no BS required.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

As I said, mix and match can either be your worse nightmare or work too your advantage.. And as you now know.. the frame stands are from a earlier year A-body.. You just have to be a little creative. I could be easier to get the later frame stand or you can try to make them work.

As I said, I used T/N mount with s/w stand. I modified them to meet my needs. I also narrowed them and extra bit and uses washers/spacer to jack the engine either a bit forward or rearward.. to get it centered for the 2 points I had problems with.. power steering pully/box and the passenger head/AC box and firewall.

I used a bunch of tool.. different wrenches, extentsion, tape, flex joints, flex sockets, I was able to get my frame stand bolted down after trying many different combinations ..

But one of my best ideas was the Nascar Lug nut method.. use some weather stripping glue to glue the nuts and lock washer together.. just glue together and let is set for a few min. and they go together as a unit. Use some of it to tack the nut/washer to the wrench or socket if needed or single/double side tape works too.

4strokeforce

Ok, then I will buy the frame stand and engine mounts new. If I buy frame stands and engine mounts to a 307 68-72 will I be safe then? I have already made the adapter plate from s&p, because I want the engine more backwards than edelbrock's solution.
Thanks for many good answers

LQ9CHEVELLE

iTrader: (2)

All i can say, is that for 68-72 A bodies, it dosen't get much easier than the following combo

68-72 factory frame brackets (not 307)
68-72 mounts
Edelbrock (or comparable offset) adaptor plates
CTS-V pan
Edelbrock long tubes, Hooker long tubes, 4th Gen F-body shorties, 4th Gen manifolds, all clear fine

Ive done 4 A-bodies this way, the motor practically falls in place, never had to modify anything, save for the edelbrock headers require a slight ding on the #6 exhaust primary where it passes the passenger frame rail down towards the collector. Even the truck P/S pulley clears the steering box fine with this setup. Also, if your thinking of moving the motor rearward more than the edelbrock plates already do, you will run into transmission dipstick-firewall interference, and your coilpacks might start hitting the factory heater box, depending on which coils you have. The square truck coils are the worst offenders, the LS2 car coils have the lowest profile out of them all, if space is a concern.

Good luck whichever route you take, to each their own!

Hodge

iTrader: (2)

Good eye. I noticed the same thing. In fact that is the frame stand for a small block. The big block 65-67 frame stands had a notch that allowed the use of motor mounts with retainers. Brings back memories of setting a 427 BBC between the frame rails of my 1966 GTO.

4strokeforce

That sounds like a good solution LQ9CHEVELLE. It seems like the s&p and edelbrock adaptor plates are using nearly the same offset. From what I've seen edelbrock moves the engine a little bit more back in the car than s&p does. I think I will follow your receipt LQ9CHEVELLE but with plates from s&p.

Thanks everyone for many good advices