IL - FOR SALE 1995 BMW M3 – 402 CI LS2 6 Speed Conversion
08-31-2009, 04:26 PM
#1
IL - FOR SALE 1995 BMW M3 – 402 CI LS2 6 Speed Conversion IL - FOR SALE 1995 BMW M3 – 402 CI LS2 6 Speed Conversion
1995 BMW M3 with a 6.6 Liter LS2 and 6 speed T56. 130K miles on the car around 12k miles on the swap. I completed the swap in the Summer of 2007.
I drive this car almost every day and everything works as it should. I have driven it in 100 degree summer heat and -20 winter cold and in the snow (but only with snow tires, on the summer tires you won’t get to the end of your block. You need to pay attention in the rain as well). It is a ton on fun.
Yes it is fast, yes it is cool and yes it can get you killed.
I have never kept a project car this long after it was finished and it is time to move on.
Here are the details (as many as I can remember and fit):
CAR – 1995 M3, black with black interior. Vader seats in good condition, rear seats in great condition. All items called “new” were installed at 119k miles.
Suspension
Engine mount reinforcements welded in and front cross member powder coated.
Rear sway bar reinforcements welded in
New sway bar bushings front and rear
Stock sway bars powder coated
New RTABs, new trailing arm front bushings
Rear RTAB cassette mounting holes welded as well (as suggested by Turner Motorsports).
New diff cradle bushings
New factory replacement shocks
Factory springs powder coated
New rear “wishbones” and bushings.
New rear lower control arms
New front control arms
New brake calipers
New rotors
New stock pads (very dusty but they work great)
New brake flex lines
New rebuilt 3.46 rear diff with 3 clutches per side and quicker ramp rate.
New M3 half shafts
New Differential bushings
Front Differential bolt was placed in double shear with a plate welded to the front of the diff.
Wheels are e46 staggered sport wheels, tires are General UHP (which work pretty good), the fronts (225-45/17) are like new, the rears (245-40/17) are perpetually worn (imaging that!) and are down to about 30%.
Body
It is in good shape but nothing approaching a show car – it is very typical for a 19 year old car. There are scratches, scrapes, dings and small dents, but the paint is still glossy and the car looks very ordinary. The right front obviously was in a minor accident at some point before I got it (the quarter panel is not original and the hood shows signs of being repainted), but the repair is good.
I replaced both door seals with new factory ones (which cost a small fortune).
The lower “twistys” could use new clips, as could some of the body moldings, but I wasn’t going to do that unless I was taking them off to paint the car.
I took apart the sunroof and had the sliding interior panel re-upholstered and replaced all of the wear items in the sunroof mechanism – which was a monumental PITA, but the sunroof tilts and slides like new.
The windows sometimes stop on the way up and I replaced the regulators with used ones, but they still have the problem.
I replaced the door cards with one from a later car that had side airbags.
The car has a Scan Gauge OBD II scan tool hooked up under the HVAC controls,
I replaced the glove box.
It has a JVC head unit and I replaced the speakers in front with separates using one of the factory mounts for the tweeters. It has a remote input for ipods, etc. I removed the rear speakers and added a elemental designs box and 10” sub mounted to the package tray. I am using a no-name 200 watt rms amp for the bass. Not fancy but it sounds good until you floor it.
Transmission
T-56 six speed, fully rebuilt by RPM transmission.
LS7 Clutch and flywheel
Remote clutch bleeded
Engine
402 aluminum block with fully forged internals from Texas-speed with -10cc dish pistons
L92 heads, box stock and .650 lift springs
Cam is 230/236 .590 .601 with 114 LSA
Hardened 7.425 pushrods
LS7 lifters
L76 intake manifold
Holley 90MM TB
Corvette fuel pressure regulator mounted under the car
New 255LPH Walbro fuel pump
58 lb injectors
New water pump
New AC compressor
New oil pump
New Bosch 02 sensors
Alternator has about 1500 miles on it.
1 3/4” custom long tube full stainless headers with v-band collectors
Dual 3” exhaust through dual 3” cats then through two 2.5” pipes with an H pipe to one Magnaflow dual inlet dual outlet muffler to some turn downs – all of it is stainless and it uses he factory hangers. It is fairly loud.
New M Coupe radiator with a Taurus puller fan and a helper SPAL pusher fan for the A/C condenser, all run by the stock PCM.
The PCM was tuned by me using the PLX wideband that is permanently installed and will be sold with the car
Problems:
The airbag light came on after I straightened the steering wheel and I haven’t fixed it or figured out what is wrong with it.
The windows as I mentioned above like to stop when closing, a very typical e36 problem.
The seat heaters don’t work and I never tried to fix them.
The body is far from perfect as described above.
I am sure that I have not listed everything, but you get the idea.
The pics were taken today as I drive it – no special prep or detailing and I would NEVER show pictures of a wet car so you can’t tell what it really looks like.
I have posted build threads at bimmerforums http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1#post10330641
and videos from after it was first done: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CmjtGYekx0 (Youtube made me remove the sound) and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AC-5G7hpRYI
(more pictures in the next post)
How much power does it make? Got me, with the old set up of much smaller heads and cam it made 400 whp, with new one it should make more.
Price - $17,500, open to offers but NOT TRADES.
I know that you and your friends can build one better for $500 over a weekend and I suggest that if you can you should
.
PM me or e-mail me rohlhausen at yahoo dot com.
1995 BMW M3 with a 6.6 Liter LS2 and 6 speed T56. 130K miles on the car around 12k miles on the swap. I completed the swap in the Summer of 2007.
I drive this car almost every day and everything works as it should. I have driven it in 100 degree summer heat and -20 winter cold and in the snow (but only with snow tires, on the summer tires you won’t get to the end of your block. You need to pay attention in the rain as well). It is a ton on fun.
Yes it is fast, yes it is cool and yes it can get you killed.
I have never kept a project car this long after it was finished and it is time to move on.
Here are the details (as many as I can remember and fit):
CAR – 1995 M3, black with black interior. Vader seats in good condition, rear seats in great condition. All items called “new” were installed at 119k miles.
Suspension
Engine mount reinforcements welded in and front cross member powder coated.
Rear sway bar reinforcements welded in
New sway bar bushings front and rear
Stock sway bars powder coated
New RTABs, new trailing arm front bushings
Rear RTAB cassette mounting holes welded as well (as suggested by Turner Motorsports).
New diff cradle bushings
New factory replacement shocks
Factory springs powder coated
New rear “wishbones” and bushings.
New rear lower control arms
New front control arms
New brake calipers
New rotors
New stock pads (very dusty but they work great)
New brake flex lines
New rebuilt 3.46 rear diff with 3 clutches per side and quicker ramp rate.
New M3 half shafts
New Differential bushings
Front Differential bolt was placed in double shear with a plate welded to the front of the diff.
Wheels are e46 staggered sport wheels, tires are General UHP (which work pretty good), the fronts (225-45/17) are like new, the rears (245-40/17) are perpetually worn (imaging that!) and are down to about 30%.
Body
It is in good shape but nothing approaching a show car – it is very typical for a 19 year old car. There are scratches, scrapes, dings and small dents, but the paint is still glossy and the car looks very ordinary. The right front obviously was in a minor accident at some point before I got it (the quarter panel is not original and the hood shows signs of being repainted), but the repair is good.
I replaced both door seals with new factory ones (which cost a small fortune).
The lower “twistys” could use new clips, as could some of the body moldings, but I wasn’t going to do that unless I was taking them off to paint the car.
I took apart the sunroof and had the sliding interior panel re-upholstered and replaced all of the wear items in the sunroof mechanism – which was a monumental PITA, but the sunroof tilts and slides like new.
The windows sometimes stop on the way up and I replaced the regulators with used ones, but they still have the problem.
I replaced the door cards with one from a later car that had side airbags.
The car has a Scan Gauge OBD II scan tool hooked up under the HVAC controls,
I replaced the glove box.
It has a JVC head unit and I replaced the speakers in front with separates using one of the factory mounts for the tweeters. It has a remote input for ipods, etc. I removed the rear speakers and added a elemental designs box and 10” sub mounted to the package tray. I am using a no-name 200 watt rms amp for the bass. Not fancy but it sounds good until you floor it.
Transmission
T-56 six speed, fully rebuilt by RPM transmission.
LS7 Clutch and flywheel
Remote clutch bleeded
Engine
402 aluminum block with fully forged internals from Texas-speed with -10cc dish pistons
L92 heads, box stock and .650 lift springs
Cam is 230/236 .590 .601 with 114 LSA
Hardened 7.425 pushrods
LS7 lifters
L76 intake manifold
Holley 90MM TB
Corvette fuel pressure regulator mounted under the car
New 255LPH Walbro fuel pump
58 lb injectors
New water pump
New AC compressor
New oil pump
New Bosch 02 sensors
Alternator has about 1500 miles on it.
1 3/4” custom long tube full stainless headers with v-band collectors
Dual 3” exhaust through dual 3” cats then through two 2.5” pipes with an H pipe to one Magnaflow dual inlet dual outlet muffler to some turn downs – all of it is stainless and it uses he factory hangers. It is fairly loud.
New M Coupe radiator with a Taurus puller fan and a helper SPAL pusher fan for the A/C condenser, all run by the stock PCM.
The PCM was tuned by me using the PLX wideband that is permanently installed and will be sold with the car
Problems:
The airbag light came on after I straightened the steering wheel and I haven’t fixed it or figured out what is wrong with it.
The windows as I mentioned above like to stop when closing, a very typical e36 problem.
The seat heaters don’t work and I never tried to fix them.
The body is far from perfect as described above.
I am sure that I have not listed everything, but you get the idea.
The pics were taken today as I drive it – no special prep or detailing and I would NEVER show pictures of a wet car so you can’t tell what it really looks like.
I have posted build threads at bimmerforums http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1#post10330641
and videos from after it was first done: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CmjtGYekx0 (Youtube made me remove the sound) and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AC-5G7hpRYI
(more pictures in the next post)
How much power does it make? Got me, with the old set up of much smaller heads and cam it made 400 whp, with new one it should make more.
Price - $17,500, open to offers but NOT TRADES.
I know that you and your friends can build one better for $500 over a weekend and I suggest that if you can you should
.PM me or e-mail me rohlhausen at yahoo dot com.
Last edited by rao; 08-31-2009 at 05:08 PM.
