brian g

iTrader: (1)

Ok got my engine out and the front of the car is up w jacks supporting it near the front of the doors.
I see a couple of decent size bolts-one up front R side for accessories, and one rear L in the head...are these good points to bolt a chain to to lift the engine?

I don't want to damage a head...
TIA.
Brian G

brian g

iTrader: (1)

NVM, I'm going to use the outer head bolts- the ones most medial and uppermost...

bczee

iTrader: (12)

You can use those two point. just make sure you use a good bolt that is just long enough, thread it all the way in with the chain (finger tight is enough). Is the trans still attached ? if so.. make sure you get it balanced..

Question, is the engine out already and your just moving it ?

brian g

iTrader: (1)

Engines out on the x-member, I'm pulling it off the x member and than pulling the oil pan to swap for a GTO pan. Tough to do in a little one car garage!
I used the d side rear and pass side front upper outer head bolts, used grade 10 of course. And yes, the trans is still attached, man this engine and trans combo maneuvers lighter than just the 2jzgte engine I pulled out....gotta love Aluminum blocks and not heavy arsed twin turbos!
bczee, The engine trans are going into my 83 Supra.

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...jan2005002.jpg

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Any bolt would do, grade 10 is like over kill. as long as the bolt is tight and now wobbing around in the thread.. it will be save and not start to strip out thread.

Supra?, what do you thing the final weight will be? Them inline 6's were pertty strong back in those smog engine days.. What are you doing for a rear end ?

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

I always pull the valley cover and use (4) of those holes for (2) chains, usually front and back, then adjust the tilt with a bolt through the chains. If I had bolts with longer thread, I'd leave the cover on...

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

I made a set of lift plates that bolt to the three holes on the end of the heads.

If you pull a head bolt make sure you throw it out and replace it with a new head bolt. They can't be reused.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I hope he is talking about the bolt holes in the end of the heads and not a Head bolt !

brian g

iTrader: (1)

bczee
Final weight should be around 3000lbs in a fully equipped AC/sound dead/2 amps/sub-woofer etc...., a 3:73 rear diff/tru trak setup and 25.7" tires- prob go w 24.7 in future 245/40/17, got a truck pinion flange, and will try to use the nice aluminum drive shaft from the donor car.
The wiring intimidates me, but I like a challenge.
B
BTW, the engine is out and I'm almost done stripping the salvagable parts off the 01 SS, hopefully I can start test fitting this week.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

good luck, I just started parting out a 02' z28.. anyone need parts (engine/trans/brakes will be kept and used on my 71 Nova).

Keep us posted on your project.

Monte_LS3

My friend came up with angle iron bridge that picks up the M10 tapped holes above the exhaust manifold flange on the rh and lh cylinder head. In this manner, the eng/trans is rigged w/ 2 chains in front and a third point the "eye" bolt over the top of the bridge.

We were able to install the eng/trans package with intake manifold installed and at the same time clear the ac housing of the 85 Monte. Did have to pull driver side valve cover for the installation, plenty of room to re-install once engine in posn. Required no chains to rear of engine....

jham4x4

iTrader: (1)

Nice setup with the bridge...looks like you can balance the motor/trans alot better. I'll have to try that shortly.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Correct me if I'm wrong but that seems like a very complex manner to install an engine. I have a leveling device I made with a bit of threaded rod across the top (same function as what you have attached with 2 chains). I have 2 chains front and 2 more on the rear using the accessory bolts in the heads and have installed many types engines in various chassis over the years without issue. I've even done a few in G-body cars and although it was tight around the AC, it wasn't impossible - even alone. Once my engine is off the stand I don't like taking off covers unless it won't be moved, too easy to get dirt and crap in it.

Now if you were putting this in an F-Body I could completely understand with the windscreen overhang but I would just drop the sub frame on that one.

Monte_LS3

gofast:

I had a "mock" motor in and out of the monte a number of times w/ the 4 chain method. Had to be careful of the ac heater housing (a number of g-body swaps resulted in broken housings). With the 4 chains, had to remove intake manifold and sometimes hard to get the bolts securing the rear chains out because of firewall interference.

At least for G-bodys, I think this method is much easier.

David

rockytopper

I used the 2 head bolts as you have suggested. Just don't do Like I did. I was so old school and green to modern engines I used 3/8 bolts to lift it off the trailor. Then realized that they were metric thread. Believe it or not a 3/8 bolt will go right in there it is that close.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I can respect that. I have worked on a bunch of those cars and always hated the 80's GM firewall AC / heat units for that reason - especially at finish time when everything was painted or plated.

What oil pan are you running? I found what GM calls the "muscle car" oil pan kit for $140 PN 19212593 at my local friendly GM dealer. This pan isn't quite as deep as the truck version and clears better than the F-Body unit without mods in many cars. It looks like a copy of the typical GEN I stamped steel oil pan made from cast aluminum for a GEN III engine. The pan has no provisions for the useless (IMO) oil level sensor and comes with pickup tube, dipstick, windage tray, gasket and all bolts. This may allow you to slide the engine forward and save a bit of room at the firewall depending on the pan you have now - it helped me out.

GEN III engines are ALL metric which is great until it is time to replace the fa$tener$. Remember - head and rod bolts are torque to yield and NOT reusable!