patoruzrs73

Hi.. i´m in the process of istalling a 04 gto LS1/A4 on my 73 RS camaro here in chile... apparently i´m the first one here to do this kind of swap.. .. i´ve read a lot on this site finding a lot of useful information.. recently I modified original harness for my application so know i´m trying to istall correctly the engine on the chasis...
For this I´m using trans-dap plates and clamp shell mounts.. f-body oil pan .. until then no clearence problems until I installed the alternator..

I´ve seen and read that there are many companies selling relocation kits (most of them expesive just to move the alternator), found one on ebay (150 bucks) and it didn´t work.. alternator hit the A-arm...

I´ve seen some of you have solved this problem using the stock location and alternator.. modifying the pitman nut and maybe playing with the position of the engine (higher/lower back/forward), also read that f-body alternator is a little bit smaller that the gto´s may can be change for clearence issues.. some one done this before? Any help form you??

I want to solve this issue to continue with my swap... need to modify pacesetters exhaust next..

....

8GTOKLR

iTrader: (6)

you'll need to get a F-body Alt or the Vette Accessory mounting see pic

If you go the vette route you'll need the crank pulley, water pump, etc.. Get the F body alt first then worse case scenario look into the vette Acc drive

From Kwik Performance

bsharpe

iTrader: (3)

I do not know where your making contact and i do not know much about your specific swap but you could try using a alternator from a blazer or s10. They are smaller and will bolt right in. Its worth a try considering you could probably get one for $20.

rockytopper

I'm the guy that sold you the bracket. I'd like to see the issues you are having. I find it hard to believe that the alt hits the A arm bolt and bushing but anything is possible. You can see from this picture the alt is located about 1.5 to 2 inches above the heater ports on the water pump. It is also almost entirely forward of the front head surface when mounted. Is the A-arm bolt forward of the engine head front surface in your installation? I can see from your picture your engine is pushed way back compared to others I have seen. I know the plastic coil cover will have to be trimmed to use the bracket but I can not visualize it hitting the A-arm bushing. Please post pictures of the interference you are having so that I can determine if you are installing the new bracket in the proper location.
Thanks
Rocky

patoruzrs73

Rocky:

Apparently my engine sits backward compared to the one you show on the picture, basically that is all the difference.. the engine mounts are almost on the original chasis position. I´ve follow all the instructions you send, exactly as the picture. Also have some clearence problems with the idler wheel and water neck....

rotor vs. piston

iTrader: (3)

The water neck, I had to use a metal file and it took care of the problem, otherwise the relocation was perfect for my setup. I hope someone would buy it off of you, it's a good piece.

I see what you're talking about... looking at it, it does seem the alt would be right on the a-arm.

Other than replacing/modifying the pitman arm & idler, seems a whole different accessory system is in your future w/ how far back the engine is. Will you have to modify the body w/ the engine that far back?

rockytopper

Water neck? Please provide feed back on where this issue is occurring. I haven't been made aware that the problem exist on the GTO installation. Is the pulley actually fouling on the neck itself?

73 you don't have to sale it to someone else you can send it back to me for a refund if you can't use it. Just Pm me. I highly suggest you make sure the engine is in the final location and as stated not so far back that it is going to cause issues with the body before you abort the bracket solution you have. To my knowledge the kwik set up shown above is the next most economical solution. I actually saw this set up on a gen 2 Camaro on the OPTIMA Ultimate Street Car challenge on the speed channel yesterday. Speed Inc a sponsor here also makes a very nice set up for relocatring the Alt. There are also a few more home made versions I have seen that the gen 4 guys are using on turbo builds.

Thanks
Rocky

patoruzrs73

Thanks Rocky, (I´ll send you a PM to see how we can do it).
Apparently I´ve found a solution for the inatallation to all clearence issues with the alternator, I´ve play arround with the height of the engine and solve almost all the problem, just need to gring a litle the pitman nut.

I´ll take pictures of the results. Now I have to put the chasis/engine on the body.. apparently will not have problems..

Later on i have to modify pacesetter headers for proper fit... and continue with the conversion.. less to finish...

1976CamaroGuy

iTrader: (8)

How did you move the engine up? I'm in the same situation right now myself with my f-body bracketry. Even having a smaller alternator than yours it still hits the nut / pitman arm.

I have a custom LS1 AC bracket set to go on the upper passenger side and would really like to keep the alternator and PS pump where they are at right now....worst case scenerio I can grab a kwik performance alt/PS bracket...but that's going to cost an extra $449 to do.

patoruzrs73

Just put some washers between the adapter plates and engine mounts, with that I gave the proper height on the engine to clear de nut / pitman arm.