sultan hamdi

mashala

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

quick update time ; well nothing much going on , I loosened up the actuators on the turbos' waste gates to try to turn the boost down a bit , still need to verify it . another thing I noticed is I was getting a misfire lately , and once I started investigating the causes it found two issues: the first is the number 8 spark plug is being coated with oil, I'm assuming the valve stem seal is going bad , but I have to double check with a compression and leak down check just to make sure.
the other issue I found out is when the car was idling I did the "jiggle " test and the car actually died when I moved the harness. so now I have an electrical issue with the harness I have to fix.
so now that the harness needs to be checked or fixed ,,, I decided this was enough reason to swap it out for a Holley harness and ECU  so I ordered the harness , ecu and injectors . This way I should be able to tune the car easily and log stuff and have the benefit of a self-learning ecu .

I also had a cut front cv boot to fix ,,,, so I did , and while I was under there I swapped both sides as well as the front wheel bearings.
I also I decided it was time to fix that annoying weak starter that seemed to lose all power once it got hot. So I ordered on a while back and once I came around to installing it the shift arm mechanism on the transmission bumps in to the rear of it, you can see why in the next pic; for some reason this starter is about an inch longer.


And here you can see what hits the back of the starter , it’s the round weight thing on the top of the shift linkage :


And while the car was on the lift I kinda noticed a small problem



But luckily I just bought a set of mickey Thompson 305/35-18 drag radials last week ,,, geuss it was racer’s intuition
And here is how they look side by side and what not :






And here they are all mounted up and pretty:


I’ll also be changing the front tires too , I will be going with a 245/40-18 fronts to match the added height the rears have . the good thing about these new sizes is that they fill the wheel well nicely , and give me a slightly taller gear ratio which should make the car even more fun to drive around .

So next up on the to do list is :
- swapping the front tires
- waiting for the new starter to show up and install it
- Change the headlight bulbs ( right now the color is off on both sides)
- Swap out the old valve seals ( that should be fun )
- Install the holley stuff once it gets here and wire it.

BLKMGK

Remove the weight on the shifter, I believe you'll find two of them. Turbo guys remove those to get better shift feel and the GT2 cars don't come with them. The metal on the screw holding it is very soft so be prepared to strip the screw head.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...el-remove.html

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the update BLKMGK,,, I kinda found out the hard way that the screw is soft

now you got me on the fence again regarding the weights ! I have the starter on the way so it shouldn't be an issue then , but reading how it improves the feel of the shift kind of makes me want to remove them .
guess I will try to remove them using a vise grip and see how that goes and how it feels , I f I don't like it I can always re install the weights and use a better screw

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

and incase anyone is wondering, the tires fit in the rear ok but they rub slightly on the rear back of the inner fender . I already ordered a 10mm spacer and longer lug bolts that should get me right were I want to be .

here are how the new tires look on the car :






and this is how far they bulge out,,,, not much ! the rubbing issue is mainly due to the increased height.

BLKMGK

Happy to help, I'll be interested in what you think of the shift feel after. I have a Numeric shifter in my car with stock cables and am pondering removing those weights and perhaps swapping to better cables. Stock shifter sux, B&M shifter sux, 997 supposed to be good but Numeric is all CNC aluminum and solid joints Love the build!

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

well I got some stuff done

what I didn't get done was the shifter weights ,,, I installed the new starter I got and was in a hurry and tired that time that I completely forgot to remove them . so I guess it will be a project for when the car is on the lift again .

as I said , I got the starter in , and got my new wheel spacers in and on the car; I ordered a set of 20 mm spacers along with longer bolts to help push the rear wheels a bit out. the tires were slightly rubbing the inner plastic fender and I really didn't feel comfortable leaving it like that .

here are the spacers :






I didn't get a pic of the wheels after the install to show how much they moved out ,,, but if you ask me its impossible to tell,,, its that subtle

moving on , I got my holley hp ecu and harness in along with the 120 lbs injectors .



so it was time to remove the old harness - its still in decent shape , but I have to trace down where the issue was coming from ,,, it could just be a loose connector or something simple like that. after a few minutes finageling with it I managed to pull it out :



the old one being pulled out :




I routed the main power cable from the ecu down to the bottom of the passenger side rear seat where it went through the hole in the floorboard and out along the A/C line towards the front passenger wheel well, from there it went through a hole and into the battery compartment and battery where the I conveniently ran out of cable . kudos to holley for having the power cable that long,,,, its almost like they knew it was going to be used in a setup like this

moving on , wiring the holley was pretty straight forward , and in no time I had it ready to fire. so I updated the firmware on the ecu before starting it and in a testament to how well the holley system is built the thing fired right up the first try and idled like a champ!!

I still have a few odds and ends to finish wiring before I can button up the interior , but its pretty much done when it comes to the wiring part

so next up on the to do list :

- wire the inputs / outputs such as the ac kick wire , fans , and clutch pedal signal ( for tying it into the two step function ), as well as a warning light wire up front.

- install interior

- swap head light bulbs

- take the car to alignment

- charge AC

- start tuning

dualdj1

Looking good man, keep it up!

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

thanks buddy ,


well I got it all wired up and done , the car works great and I started messing with tuning it while I'm driving it around. there is one small issue that is giving me a hard time ; the car has a very hard lean stumble a hair of idle . if you lightly touch the gas pedal ( about 1% throttle) the car will go super lean according to the scanner and the rpm will actually drop just before dying. this is making the car a bit hard to drive from a stand still.
I tried everything in the software to correct this but there is no change , so this is leading my to the next possible culprit ; a faulty map sensor or O2 sensor. reason I say that is because the map sensor is old plus it reads off the log manifold I have ( I tried changing where it reads) ,,,, and the wideband I installed on the Porsche is just as old and is off my Camaro ,,,, which is old and abused

so to address this I will swap the NTK sensor I have on there today to a bosch new unit , and I already ordered a zr1 3 bar map so I can install it in the original location next to the throttle body .

other than that the car pulls hard and hooks good ,,,, right now its just under 8 psi of boost , i plan on raising that back to the 18 psi soon and see how much the new tires will like that

plus there is a test and tune session this Friday at the local track , and i plan on attending it to see how it does

wish me luck !

mariusl

Keep us updated!

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

guess no tack for me this weekend

after taking the car for a rear alignment found out the upper rear control arm bushings to be shot , the rear passenger side tire was moving around and it made the car dangerous to drive

so I just ordered a set of bushings and will install them as soon as I get them in.

I also changed the wide band to a bosch unit and changed its location to the exhaust manifold instead of the exhaust pipe,,, still same issue

BLKMGK

If you've not done anything to the rear suspension there's lots of rubber back there and it allows the car to squat which wears the heck out of the inside edges of the tires. Adjustable toe links with monoballs, toe adjuster lockouts, and fresh LCA with perhaps solid center bushing and monoballs ends make a big difference. Can point you to some suspension threads if you want. Tarrett, Elephant Racing, and others make some good stuff but not cheap, can probably fab toe links yourself though. Upper arms don't seem to get changed much from stock so your issue is odd.

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the information BLKMGK, yup they are pricey!

I still need to take a better look at all the bushings , but for now i'm sure one of the upper arms has a shot bushing since the arm is already rubbing the subframe / cradle where they meet. I also have to check if the rear carrier bearings also to make sure they are ok too.
don't forget that this car had an engine fire sometime before and the damage was somewhat large. bushings could have been damaged then and all the extra power now didn't help the situation .

Centerforce

We love this build! Cant wait to see those first track/street pics!

dualdj1

see if you can tune Tip-In on your system. if you can add enrichment there, it should act as an accelerator pump when you hit the throttle. Same deal with tip-out, if it goes over rich letting off, you should be able to lean out there. I've never actually done it... just seen guys working with those on tuner forums. Hope it ends up being helpful.

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

hi dualdj1 ,
I tried that already ( went to %300 tip in ) but no luck .
I still have to rule out any mechanical faults , such as a misfire or bad map sensor. that's why I ordered a new ZR1 map and will do a compression and leak down test to make sure everything is mechanically sound , I might then revert to the V2 software just to make sure the issue is not from the V4 software.

another thing that popped up during a conversation with a friend is that there could be a vacuum leak from the wastegate hoses ,,, since the car would not go above 8ish psi and at idle there is pressure in the charge pipes. so that's one more thing to check.

stevieturbo

Often people get carried away and add too much acceleration enrichment.

But of course base tuning needs to be good first, before tackling those areas. If base tuning is bad, accel enrichment etc bad....you're just pissing into the wind.

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

totally agree!
but I also need to make sure the car is mechanically sound first ( should have done that before )

dualdj1

Details, details. lol

1dirtyZ

iTrader: (1)

quick update ,

I swapped the map sensor to a ZR1 map sensor and it seems to have done the job.
I drove the car to the shop and it seems to drive fine and the dead spot just at tip in seems to be all but gone.

I still need to redo the vacuum lines and properly position the sensor , but so far it seems ok.