burntblues

I just made my own set of engine plates (I'll have to make one more, apparently the drill was at an angle). I made a pair that sets the engine back 1" (like the carshop or hooker style plates). My question is, I see a lot of people have threaded the whole for the mount, but is it necessary? Can I just run a bolt all the way through the plate and put a nut on the end? If I have to to thread it, what is the tap I should run through the plate? Also, what size bolts do I need for the engine mount side and the plate to engine part? I didn't get any of these things when I bought my engine.

Thanks all!
Mike

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Check to see if you can place a hex headed bolt from the rear of the plate. Most of the time the head of the bolt will come into contact with the block. that is why move people and manufactors thread the hole.

The block is threaded for 10mm x 1.5mm .. so.. you need to drill the hole for that size to mount the plate to the block and use 10mm x 1.5mm grade 9 or 10.

But for the engine mount to the plate. You can either use 10mm x 1.5mm hardware or you can use ANSI 3/8" hardware since it doesn't thread into the block which is metric.

burntblues

Thanks so much! I just had the same idea with the putting the head of the bolt behind the plate. I moved the engine mounts forward an inch from the standard S&P mounts as this should move the engine back an inch and apparently line everything up with a standard sbc. I think that may give me the correct spacing to slide a bolt in from behind. I know I probably shouldn't be messing with the webbing between the bolt holes, but can I? If I grind that down a little bit and make a hex head work am I giving up that much structural integrity?

Jimbo1367

why bother. You will need to put a wrench on the bolt when ever you need to R&R it AND grind the webbing. IMHO, I think its just eaier to tap the plate.