bronx_peanut

I was wondering if there was an accessory bracket system similar to the kwik performance set up that is less expensive? Maybe a different manufacture? http://www.kwikperf.com/lsx_alt_ps.html

bozzhawg

Good question

rockytopper

If you are not running a/c or plan to run it down low in the oem location I have this available for the ls1 and ls2 f-body and gto engines to relocate the alt to the passenger side head. Uses the oem alt and brackets

darksider

I'd be interested in that. I wouldn't have to get a new alternator? Can you provide more info? I have a LS1 out of a 2004 GTO, going into a 1965 GTO. Thanks, Mike

rockytopper

Mike I sent you a pm with info.
Thanks
Rocky

krzy_z

iTrader: (1)

how much is this bracket?

rockytopper

Krzy z pm sent with info

1976CamaroGuy

iTrader: (8)

That's a great idea, I have seen them on eBay..still comparable to kwik performance prices though...especially for what you get.

Don't take it personal I just can't see spending $150 for a piece of aluminum and a few spacers.

rockytopper

I won't take it personal cause there are plenty of folks that will and have bought it. Besides my little piece of aluminum and hand full of spacers does what it is suppose to do unlike that motor mount kit you thought was worth the money. Looks like to me by the time you finish getting your swap to work 150$ is going to look like pocket change.

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

being run on zone89rs's car.
shown is the manual steering version. ps version also available using gm type II ps pump with remote resevoir. use gm 90s 3rd gen alternator. use mechanical tensioner. designed for hi rpm in mind. eliminate spring loaded tensioner.
lite, strong, compact and locates everything inboard. shown pictured in 3rd gen camaro bay

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Until you try to design, build, troubleshoot, then redesgn, and rebuild an accessory bracket/system, you wont realize that Kwik, etc are pretty good deals. And forget about designing and building your own in the car unless you got a lot of room in there.
I built my own for high mounted AC and alternator only and it took A LOT of time.
My build:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...rive-done.html

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Agreed! The voice of experience speaks. I've also done it before, will do it again but it can be a real pain in the tail. I can't tell you how much paper I wasted trying different belt routes before I started building. Then once it is designed, actually making it work in the confines of the engine bay is a completely different issue...

Mike52

iTrader: (1)

Obviously, you can't see the forest for the trees either. If you think $150 is for the "piece of aluminum and a few spacers", you are sadly mistaken. There is a certain price to be paid for one's time and expertise, it's also called R&D. If it was just "a piece of aluminum and a few spacers" why don't you make it instead of trying to find a cheap way out? JMO

Mike

1976CamaroGuy

iTrader: (8)

Hi Mike,

There's not much R & D in laying the stock alternator bracket onto a piece of paper and tracing out a template, transfer it to a piece of aluminum, then cut it out with a jigsaw, sand the edges and then bolt it on. Anyone with a few simple tools and some imagination can make one.

From what I can tell the only R & D that has been done is feedback from people having problems with the part...theres a thread floating around where a 2nd gen camaro owner had problems with the alternator hitting the control arms using this bracket.

You guys can get pissy with me all you want, it's my opinion and I have a right to voice it. The OP was looking for a cheaper solution to kwik performance brackets and this wasn't actually a cheaper alternative. I stand by my opinion that $150 is a lot to pay for a 6" x 8" piece of aluminum cut on a cnc machine.

Good thing I got my lower alternator problem figured out, I saved myself some $$$. Switched out my set-back mounts with regular mounts and my f-body alternator clears the pitman arm now....problem solved.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Ah.... tracing is step one (design), cutting with a jigsaw is step 2 (build). BTW, that looks like it was done using something more sophisticated than a jigsaw. And have you tried to drill a centered hole through a 3-4" spacer with squared ends?
Anyway, step 3 usually involves throwing a belt and starting over.
Glad you can use the factory mount, they're cheap, easy to find always work right.

john 67

Having designing and building a compressor relocation bracket for my ls2 -67 chevelle , 150$ I would say is a good price . I have spent countless hours mocking up , locating the right components and fabricating the parts for my system. Rocky , thanks for sharing your hard work with us. JOHN

1976CamaroGuy

iTrader: (8)

I know that was done with something more sophisicated than a jigsaw and I think I mentioned that already, most likely a cnc of some sort.

But you can still make something like that yourself with a few simple shop tools. Most people don't have a problem paying those kind of prices for something they can bolt on and that's ok.

I do, and let me tell you why, I bought a set of motor mount plates off eBay for $35 shipped. These came to me powdercoated and were obviously cut and drilled with something a little more sophiscated than a jigsaw. Sure I wrestled with these mounts a bit, but that's not the point and had similar problems bolting in the stock stuff on my 82 corvette.



$35 shipped > $150 shipped??

^That's a huge difference in price for products very similar in how they are made.... so yes I would have a problem with buying something like that because of feeling like I was being taken advantage of.

Some people may not feel that way so that's great, but you can't fault someone who feels like that. I really think that a creative person with a center punch, jig saw, grinder, hole saw bits, sander, and four hours of thier time can make a bracket like that out of a $10 piece of aluminum sheet.

And you can get metal spacers from the lowes nut and bolt aisle in various lenghts as well...

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I actually agree with you. Use the OEM stuff if you can, make what will work best with your application if the OEM stuff doesnt work.
The aftermarket sprang up for those of us who dont have a drill press, lathe, etc, or the time to do it. Those plates you show used to be $90 before 4 different companies started making them and selling a lot.
I would expect the bracket relocation market will expand with the decreasing supply of low profile motors (LS1, 2, 3). Lots more people using 5.3, 6.0, 6.2 truck motors. A few years ago S&P was the only game in town with $1000 brackets. Now Kwik, and a few others are making brackets at half that price.
The day Moroso, Edelbrock, etc can turn them out in the numbers like your motor mounts is when you'll see a big drop in price.
Good luck with your vette.

1976CamaroGuy

iTrader: (8)

Thanks - That's the point I was trying to make, that as long as there are people willing to pay those prices great...if not that's ok too and we just move on.

I actually just paid $24 for a "special" torx bit to remove the bellhousing on my 4L60e....it's the size of a socket....but hey I actually needed it. So it depends on the situation.

Don't get me started on S & P lol.....

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

On some stuff I agree and that is why I build my own stuff... besides no one makes what I typically need.

I've seen those torx bits. One trans shop told me when they do rebuilds they toss those bolts and put normal metric hex head bolts in because the others were so easy to strip. If you have ever disassembled a new style GM steering column there is another 'oddball' torx you need to get it apart. Of course it isn't available in standard parts stores, but I have a shop here that carries stuff like that.

Hahahahaha. Oh, another one with some S&P stories... we could probably start a whale of a topic on them.