Any one here running Hydroboost? having some problems
04-04-2010, 11:46 AM
#1
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Any one here running Hydroboost? having some problems Ok let me tell you what i have its and ls motor with and ls1 power steering pump. i am using a ford mustang hydro booster and a stock power steering box
this is a new setup that i am using so i have some bugs...
the pump wines like crazy
it has no power steering
the brakes surge when i depress the pedal
when i turn the wheel to the right the pump wines hard but not when turned to the left. and it keeps blowing the cap off the tank and the fluid is like chocolate milk.
i have tried for a few hours to bleed the system with the car on jack stands with no results. i have checked many diagrams and it seems i have it plumed correctly but cant seem to figure it out..
and ideas would be great
this is a new setup that i am using so i have some bugs...
the pump wines like crazy
it has no power steering
the brakes surge when i depress the pedal
when i turn the wheel to the right the pump wines hard but not when turned to the left. and it keeps blowing the cap off the tank and the fluid is like chocolate milk.
i have tried for a few hours to bleed the system with the car on jack stands with no results. i have checked many diagrams and it seems i have it plumed correctly but cant seem to figure it out..
and ideas would be great
04-04-2010, 01:53 PM
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sounds like alota air in the sys. what year LS1 is it? I know the gto & fbody pumps are generally abit noisy at times & some require ATF instead of p/s fluid, like my '04 gto.
04-06-2010, 12:13 AM
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I have Hydroboost and rack and pinion in my 82 Vette, and don't have any problems with the 2001 F-body LS1 power steering pump.
Its important to have the straight of the T used in the return lines to be plumbing your power steering gear box, and the HB unit return uses the right angle side of the T. The reason for this is the power steering flows more fluid and needs to have a clean straight return path. The HB unit only sends fluid through the return line when your brake is activated, and it is much less volume than the power steering gear box flow.
To bleed the unit, you should actually not start the car. Turning it over slowly with just the starter will get things moving and not aerate the fluid. Once your fluid is aerated, you should let it sit overnight to allow the air and fluid to separate. Then try it again, just turning it over, not starting. While you are doing this, you should turn your steering wheel lock to lock to get the power steering gear box to release any air.
Then when you do start it, dont rev it up, and continue to turn the steering wheel lock to lock 15-20 times to help release any air in the PS gear box.
It is also known that it may take up to 500 miles of driving to get the air all bled out of the system. I actually had a slight whine the entire first year the HB unit was installed. After the car sat over the winter, the next spring it became quiet. The air was trapped in the R&P unit I believe.
I got all this info from the Hydratech website forum, before it was shut down after the business was sold.
Brent.
Its important to have the straight of the T used in the return lines to be plumbing your power steering gear box, and the HB unit return uses the right angle side of the T. The reason for this is the power steering flows more fluid and needs to have a clean straight return path. The HB unit only sends fluid through the return line when your brake is activated, and it is much less volume than the power steering gear box flow.
To bleed the unit, you should actually not start the car. Turning it over slowly with just the starter will get things moving and not aerate the fluid. Once your fluid is aerated, you should let it sit overnight to allow the air and fluid to separate. Then try it again, just turning it over, not starting. While you are doing this, you should turn your steering wheel lock to lock to get the power steering gear box to release any air.
Then when you do start it, dont rev it up, and continue to turn the steering wheel lock to lock 15-20 times to help release any air in the PS gear box.
It is also known that it may take up to 500 miles of driving to get the air all bled out of the system. I actually had a slight whine the entire first year the HB unit was installed. After the car sat over the winter, the next spring it became quiet. The air was trapped in the R&P unit I believe.
I got all this info from the Hydratech website forum, before it was shut down after the business was sold.
Brent.
Last edited by MN-Brent; 04-06-2010 at 12:25 AM.
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04-06-2010, 07:54 PM
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I am also running one with no problems. My brother has the same setup in his truck and when we put the LS engine in his, it was doing the same thing that you are describing. He eventually found that there was a problem with his power steering box, but not before he fried the power steering pump.
This may or may not be the same problem that you are having. We bypassed the hydroboost to rule out any problems. You may want to try that first.
This may or may not be the same problem that you are having. We bypassed the hydroboost to rule out any problems. You may want to try that first.
04-06-2010, 08:22 PM
#9
I have Hydroboost and rack and pinion in my 82 Vette, and don't have any problems with the 2001 F-body LS1 power steering pump.
Its important to have the straight of the T used in the return lines to be plumbing your power steering gear box, and the HB unit return uses the right angle side of the T. The reason for this is the power steering flows more fluid and needs to have a clean straight return path. The HB unit only sends fluid through the return line when your brake is activated, and it is much less volume than the power steering gear box flow.
To bleed the unit, you should actually not start the car. Turning it over slowly with just the starter will get things moving and not aerate the fluid. Once your fluid is aerated, you should let it sit overnight to allow the air and fluid to separate. Then try it again, just turning it over, not starting. While you are doing this, you should turn your steering wheel lock to lock to get the power steering gear box to release any air.
Then when you do start it, dont rev it up, and continue to turn the steering wheel lock to lock 15-20 times to help release any air in the PS gear box.
It is also known that it may take up to 500 miles of driving to get the air all bled out of the system. I actually had a slight whine the entire first year the HB unit was installed. After the car sat over the winter, the next spring it became quiet. The air was trapped in the R&P unit I believe.
I got all this info from the Hydratech website forum, before it was shut down after the business was sold.
Brent.
Its important to have the straight of the T used in the return lines to be plumbing your power steering gear box, and the HB unit return uses the right angle side of the T. The reason for this is the power steering flows more fluid and needs to have a clean straight return path. The HB unit only sends fluid through the return line when your brake is activated, and it is much less volume than the power steering gear box flow.
To bleed the unit, you should actually not start the car. Turning it over slowly with just the starter will get things moving and not aerate the fluid. Once your fluid is aerated, you should let it sit overnight to allow the air and fluid to separate. Then try it again, just turning it over, not starting. While you are doing this, you should turn your steering wheel lock to lock to get the power steering gear box to release any air.
Then when you do start it, dont rev it up, and continue to turn the steering wheel lock to lock 15-20 times to help release any air in the PS gear box.
It is also known that it may take up to 500 miles of driving to get the air all bled out of the system. I actually had a slight whine the entire first year the HB unit was installed. After the car sat over the winter, the next spring it became quiet. The air was trapped in the R&P unit I believe.
I got all this info from the Hydratech website forum, before it was shut down after the business was sold.
Brent.
04-06-2010, 08:36 PM
#10
Need to make sure that your reservoir is the highest point on your system.
Make sure you use hoses that are rated for hydroboost pressures.
You need to use a very high quality P/S fluid.
I'd recommend jacking up the vehicle in the front, leave it overnight, and then go lock-to-lock 20-30 times nice and slow. Watch the reservoir for bubbles.
I initially had whining. Also used GM PS fluid. Turned out the return line was collapsing. Replaced the lines with much stouter hoses with AN fittings. Replaced the fluid with Red Line P/S synthetic fluid.
Make sure you use hoses that are rated for hydroboost pressures.
You need to use a very high quality P/S fluid.
I'd recommend jacking up the vehicle in the front, leave it overnight, and then go lock-to-lock 20-30 times nice and slow. Watch the reservoir for bubbles.
I initially had whining. Also used GM PS fluid. Turned out the return line was collapsing. Replaced the lines with much stouter hoses with AN fittings. Replaced the fluid with Red Line P/S synthetic fluid.
04-06-2010, 09:03 PM
#11
When I did my hydroboost I did two returns to the resevior no "T" in the line and then had to buy a filtered resevior from PSC. The filter gets out the "micro bubbles" in the fluid according to Paul at Hydro Tech. Worked like charm.
04-07-2010, 01:57 AM
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hydroboost I once had a similiar problem with a system and it turned out that my brake pedal was slightly depressed all the time. Make sure there is free play at the hydro or there is no binding at it. Hope this helps, Hal
2004, bleed, bleeding, box, duramax, gear, hosefitting, hydroboost, hydrobooster, ls2, nova, power, powersteering, pump, steering, turning, whining
