mrgto

About to buy a 2004 GTO engine/T56 and it's going into a '66 GTO. Just curious to know which kit you used to install the LSX intot he car.

Also, if you used the factory AC compressor, how did you mount it in the car? use a aftermarket bracket? Factory bracket and notch the frame? Use special engine/frame mounts to move the engine forward to clear it?

Thanks all.

rockytopper

In my 1965 cutlass https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ject-pics.html
I made my on frame mounts using the f-body frame mounts and I used the oem f-body engine mounts that came with my ls1 engine. The factory compressor clears the frame. The alt will not work because it hit the steering box so I developed a custom bracket to relocate it to the upper passenger side. I am also using the factory f-body exhaust manifolds that fit perfect. If you plan on running headers I believe they are all designed to fit with the engine pushed back which will force you to have to notce the frame to run the compressor down low. Your alt may or may not work in the stock location. Some grind of the steering box to get clearance.
Good Luck with your build.
Rocky

bczee

iTrader: (12)

For my 71 Chevelle, I made some plates using the Template found in the FAQ.. I used the BRP style mounts as I wanted to keep the LS1 AC mounted in its location (passenger side, low). But you have to notch the frame and move the frame stands as needed to locate the engine as you need it.

As Rocky stated. I had a few of those problem and did grind here and there for power steering box and pump clearance. Also watch out for the steering rod end and the oil pan on turning the steering lock to lock. This many cause you move the engine higher with some combination of engine and frame mount height.

good luck.. post up what you have going..

mrgto

Thanks guys. I was looking for as little fabrication as I can possibly go with. I don't yet even have the engine/tranny as I pick it up on Saturday but I wanted to get a jump start on what people were using.

lamdenali

iTrader: (5)

I use S & P motor plate and headers on my 67 Chevelle

mrgto

What did you use for accessories and do you have AC?

bczee

iTrader: (12)

You should do a little research on the FAQ for the A-Body swap. I think most have outlined there configuration of parts (or mis-match parts, LOL).. that might help you decied on what route to take. they all have the pro's and con's.

For any of the S&P mounts style.. after marked AC setup are required and might also require accessory relocation. (S&P, March, home built, etc..)

70lx327

i used dirty dingo adjustable mounts and quik performance accesssory brackets. very happy with everything.

pushrod36

I used the edelbrock adapter plates. I chose them because they have headers that come with, so I didn't have to worry about those clearing everything.

In order to use this kit I had to switch to the autokraft oil pan, grind away a good bit of the stock power steering box, and modify the transmission tunnel. I have heard that the CTS-V pan will clear also, and I think that if you used an f-body pan, and put the engine in the top, the trans in through the bottom with tunnel mods, and then joined them, that you could make that work, too.

Also, none of the kits will work with pontiac engine mounts, so you will need to switch to Chevy ones. Your cross member should already have the proper holes in it.

mrgto

GM Performance Parts makes a "muscle car" pan kit that I think I'll end up using. I'm still looking for a kit that might move the engine forward a bit so the AC compressor clears the frame without me having to modify it.

I'd also not have to spend $2500 on a new pulley system.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

The Muscle car pan kit uses the LH8 Hummer pan. Need to watch out for the sump depth, not as deep as the truck pan.. but still has been a concern about how low it hangs pass your x-member. I was one of the 1st ones to try the CTS-V pans and it hangs about 1" below my X-member.. and it is not as deep as the LH8 pan.

As I stated before.. if you want to use the OEM (Gen III/IV) compressor, you will have to use BRP style plates and notch the frame, then move the frame stand to where you want the engine to sit (forward/backwards or sideways).

lamdenali

iTrader: (5)

I bought the kit that they sell that come with new bracket and pump,alternator,tensioner, and all.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

aaaand i am subscribing... keep us posted on how it goes.

mrgto

And which one was that?

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

soooo... any updates? i'm gathering info/parts for my swap.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

These? http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_...oducts_id=1318
I think I might pick those up as well. They are kind of pricey but if they save my having to move my stands I think it'd be worth it. Plus if they raise the motor 1/4 that should eliminate the need for spacers. I hope.