ItzStreetLethal

iTrader: (4)

Okay, let me first admit that I have a problem... I'm an F-body addict. I own three right now, and two "in a previous life". SO try and keep up.

(I have an 2000 SS M6 that will remain out of this equation)

This involves a 1997 LT1 M6 coupe that's gutted, started making it the "race car" by adding a cage, QA1's f&r, UMI suspension bits (SFC, panhard, reloc brkts, control arms, etc), mufflex/magnaflow, and racetronix pump/hotwire kit.

I also just purchased a 1998 Z28 (salvage title) with a stock 4L60E, 3:73 rear, ported TB and mint interior. So here's where the advice comes in to play. I want to take the LS drivetrain and put it in the "race car" LT chassis. I want the car to remain quite streetable and may even swap over the A/C (which is ice cold in the 1998!). Ultimate goals are remain street driven, try to do things smart/once and end up with a potent final product. I'll start with the questions.

Whats different 1998 to 2000 motor specifics wise? Heads obviously, injectors as well, but should I do anything preventative while the motor is pulled? ARP rod bolts? Timing set? Oil pump? I have an LS6 intake to add, while I'm in there, should I upgrade pushrods? Throw a cam or even heads into the mix (leaning more towards cam only, unless the 1998 heads suck)? This is where I start to go off the deep end because I don't really want to dive into the motor MUCH. I'd also like synergy and know the trans will likely need attention next. So thinking a rebuild may be in order. Should I add a stall as well? I had a 3600rpm stall on 3:23's before and hated the effect on light to light, daily driving. Hoping 3:73's would be better with maybe 3200rpm and a small shot? So I guess the short version is:

Before I throw it all together, what should I do to make the most of what I've got?

I thought of hitting up Patrick G but doesnt he only recommend cams? Anyways, an help, ideas or advice is appreciated. THANKS!

Starz T/A 17

iTrader: (6)

"I want to take the LS drivetrain and put it in the "race car" LT chassis. I want the car to remain quite streetable"

Thats the part that confused me, can you explain a little more what that means and your goals for the car. Because a street car and a race car are 2 different things. You can make the most out of what you have but its going to cost you more $$$, so its all in what you want out of the car and how much you want to spend.

ItzStreetLethal

iTrader: (4)

"Race car" is just the term I use to identify this car. It will still be street driven (weekends mostly) and taken to the track a handful of times each year. Think "race car" as a nickname and not it's only function. As for the A/C, I live in Florida (HOT and muggy 80% of the year) so it'd be a non "race" option I could live with. Even still, I've not had functioning A/C in a vehicle for 3+ years. So even that's negotionable.

00MaroonZ28

iTrader: (3)

I thought the same thing too. It's either a race car or a street car.

IIR, the ECU is different for the 98 and 2000

davidws6

iTrader: (36)

I'd do some ARP Rod Bolts !

bmxmon

iTrader: (5)

Wouldn't it be easier, cheaper and faster to just take the parts off the '97 and put them into the '98? That's what I would do, then sell the '97 parts. If its partially gutted and highly modified, I wouldn't think the salvage title would hurt too much when (if) you sell it.

vetteboy99

If I where you, I would do it in the salvage title'd one. Get the ls1 and put the forged kit in it. Full bolt on's and turbo it. Why the salvage title? Because when you wanna sell it the buyer will have a reason to buy it in a high price. If you know what I mean.

ItzStreetLethal

iTrader: (4)

The LS1 was rear ended (minor but the PO's insurance total'd it) and I like the look of the LT1 cars a little better anyway. Due to the welding (cage and SFC's already installed)and the clean title, I'm building the (underdog/sleeper) 97 for street/track duty. I just want to upgrade the drivetrain to LS status, keep it semi civil and run mid-low 11's on motor. Maybe faster (AND STAY TOGETHER) if I add a small shot somewhere down the line. How should I do this safely and spending my money in the right areas? Keep the ideas and advice coming. Thanks.

vetteboy99

[QUOTE=ItzStreetLethal;13477000] I like the look of the LT1 cars a little better anyway.QUOTE]

Your kidding right?

ItzStreetLethal

iTrader: (4)

Yes, sleek beak over cat fish... And now, back on topic. Forgot to mention I have a upgraded timing chain NIB as well. So beyond rod bolts (going Katech I think), I read that a oil pump may be a safe bet as well. Any particular ones worth researching? Now that I think about it, I may have some bigger LS injectors tucked away as well. Seems some have decent luck getting to my goal with bolt ons/tune, stall and a solid 60ft. I'll have to read up on stalls, everything I've found so far say 3600 minimum but I didn't like the slushy, lethargic feeling during normal driving that I had in my old LT1/4L60E/stall so I'll have to dive in to this subject a little deeper...

tatertot91

iTrader: (41)

Look into a ported LS6 oil pump and some 5.3 truck heads
The 5.3l heads will give you higher compression
As for stalls, with 3.73s i would go with at least a 3600, you're better off talking to stall manufacturers and telling them what you want, they can better direct you
And keep my old 98 in one piece