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best LS pan for my 69 Chevelle?

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Old 12-29-2009, 10:40 PM
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Default best LS pan for my 69 Chevelle?

I am building a 69 Chevelle and dropping a 98 LS1 into it. So far from what ive read, the CTS-V oil pan looks like will be my best bet for better clearance.

Does anyone that has done this swap have any info that might be helpful?

i would like to know how much crossmember clearance i will gain with the CTS pan rather than the F body pan. im not too worried about alternator and A/C clearance, because i am relocating them higher.

My car sets low, so i will need a pan with decent ground clearance also.

I appreciate any info that you would like to share!
Old 12-29-2009, 11:14 PM
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I've got a CTS-V pan on 71'. It hangs below the crossmember a little over 1". You can raise the engine up a bit higher to get the pan even with the crossmember. My car is also lowered, but not to the ground, but I have a few flatten header tubes and have scraped asphalt off of the front of the pan. But with the CTS-V pan, you do have to mount it a bit higher that you would with a F-Body pan due to he transition from the front to the rear sump will cause you to raise the engine to clear, but the lower rear sump will have a lot more room as compared to a un-notched F-Body pan (have to use early BRP style mounts and move the engine frame stands to work with a stock F-Body pan) that would be about 3/8" - 1/2" of clearance at best between the pan and crossmember.

You might look at that newer cast LHX swap pan that is being marketed by RetroLSX.com. I just got mine yesterday ! I am going to use it on my 71' Nova.

You can see and read up on the CTS-V pan in my Cardomain project, follow the link in my Sig...

hope that helps some. If you have question, let me know and I and the rest of the A-Body guys will answer.

BC
Old 12-30-2009, 12:24 AM
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Thanks for the help BC! looks like the CTS pan does clear better. by using the CTS pan were you able to keep your engine off of the fire wall?

with the F body pan, i had to get pretty dang close to the firewall to make it clear the crossmember, so I think that if the CTS pan will let move the engine forward about an inch then it should fit perfect.

Another question, how well does the CTS pick up tube connect to the LS1 oil pump? does it just bolt right up to it? because I think the CTS had the LS6, so i wasnt sure if the LS6 and LS1 had the same oil pump or not...
Old 12-30-2009, 10:56 AM
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Brax - Yes, the more you raise the engine, the more you can move the engine forward.. this is due to the angle of the transition of the pan between the front and rear of it (and also to get the pan even with the X-Member).

No problem with using / switching the pick up tubes. They just bolt up the same. Just be careful to not pinch the O-Ring and make sure it is flush with the pump (recommend the RetroLSX gridle for the pump pickup). Physically the are the same pump (maybe just different releif springs).
IMO, if you have the engine down that far, I would change the pump, use ARP rod bolts and timing chain/gears. A bit of insurance of the three weaker points of the engine. You can reseach to see what everyone is recommending now adays..
Old 12-30-2009, 11:38 AM
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I'm working on installing a LQ9 truck motor in a '69 Lemans, and due to the need for hood clearance with the tall intake manifold I've had to slam the engine down as low as possible. In addition, for tranny tunnel clearance with my 4L60E, I've had to move it as far forward as possible. With both of those factors combined, none of the factory GM pans would work. The only one that would work is either the new Retro LSX pan or the Autokraft pan.

It really depends on where you need to put the engine/tranny. If I were to offer a just about fool-proof solution, I would vote for the Autokraft pan. I ordered mine on Monday (at 1 PM none the less) and received it right away on Tuesday. Kurt answered all of my questions right away (even after the holiday period) and shipped it out same day (late in the day) as promised. The Autokraft pan does have an advantage over the retroLSX pan which is the trap door baffles that prevent the oil from sloshing around during hard cornering.

Please post which direction you head, it's always interesting to see what works for different people
Old 12-30-2009, 06:26 PM
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I think im still leaning towards the CTS pan. I talk to the Chevy dealership in town today and i can get the pan, pickup tube and windage tray for under $300 with my discount at work.

I thought about those aftermarket pans, but i would really like to stay with GM parts as much as possible. i have plenty of room to raise the motor since i have the low profile car intake instead of the truck intake, so i should be fine there.

does anyone know where i might find the dimensions of CTS pan, ive not been able to see one in person yet to take measurements off of.
thanks
Old 12-30-2009, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by brax 69 chevelle
I think im still leaning towards the CTS pan. I talk to the Chevy dealership in town today and i can get the pan, pickup tube and windage tray for under $300 with my discount at work.

I thought about those aftermarket pans, but i would really like to stay with GM parts as much as possible. i have plenty of room to raise the motor since i have the low profile car intake instead of the truck intake, so i should be fine there.

does anyone know where i might find the dimensions of CTS pan, ive not been able to see one in person yet to take measurements off of.
thanks
Cadillac CTSv :
Capacity: 5.5 qts
Oil pan: 12577901
Oil pump pickup: 12577906
Windage tray: 12558268 (same as Truck "C/K)
Dipstick tube: ?
Dipstick: ?
O-ring for Oil pump pickup:?
Oil pan baffle: 12577904
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...0corrected.jpg

Copied from the oil pan sticky

Originally Posted by goatcrazy
I'm working on installing a LQ9 truck motor in a '69 Lemans, and due to the need for hood clearance with the tall intake manifold I've had to slam the engine down as low as possible. In addition, for tranny tunnel clearance with my 4L60E, I've had to move it as far forward as possible. With both of those factors combined, none of the factory GM pans would work. The only one that would work is either the new Retro LSX pan or the Autokraft pan.

It really depends on where you need to put the engine/tranny. If I were to offer a just about fool-proof solution, I would vote for the Autokraft pan. I ordered mine on Monday (at 1 PM none the less) and received it right away on Tuesday. Kurt answered all of my questions right away (even after the holiday period) and shipped it out same day (late in the day) as promised. The Autokraft pan does have an advantage over the retroLSX pan which is the trap door baffles that prevent the oil from sloshing around during hard cornering.

Please post which direction you head, it's always interesting to see what works for different people
How low do you have your engine. I plan to upgrade to the pro flow intake in the future but I had to raise the engine for tie-rod clearance.

I am probably the only person happy with the lh8 pan. The price is unbeatable and ground clearance is already a problem with the edelbrock headers.
Old 12-30-2009, 08:01 PM
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I don't have the Autokraft oil pan mounted yet, but the bottom of the truck pan is ~ 3/8 " above the x-member
Old 12-30-2009, 08:11 PM
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Thanks for the info on the CTS pan bsharpe! thats what i needed to know
Old 01-01-2010, 01:47 PM
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Well i ordered the CTS-V oil pan yesterday from the local Chevy dealership. It is supposed to be in sometime next week! Ill let you all know how it fits and maybe post some pictures when i get it installed.
Old 01-01-2010, 03:40 PM
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I would recommend Autokraft. Leaves you with no clearance issues.
Old 01-02-2010, 06:55 PM
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I'm useing a Vette pan in my 72 Cutlass. Yes a vette bat wing pan I cut the trans tunnel out so the pass head is 3/4" off the fire wall. My problem is the tie rods and my plan is make some notches in the sides for clearance.
Old 11-15-2010, 11:22 PM
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My cts-v pan didn't come with a dipstick and the one that was in my block is toast. Can I just pick up any flexible lokar type dipstick, throw 5.5 quarts in there then mark the stick? Or is the 5.5 q capacity listed above pan-only not counting what the engine/ filter might hold?



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