71 Nogo slowly getting a boring lq4/4l80 build
06-27-2010, 03:13 PM
#1
71 Nogo slowly getting a boring lq4/4l80 build This is the story of my SLOW in progess lq4 swap in my 71 Nova
Thanks to a good tax return, I took the plunge and bought a 38K lq4 to put in the back of the garage until I sold of my 454/th350.
Got a buyer for the old drivetrain and now I have a non-operable car again (good at making these
)
I have a ls6 cam, springs, pushrods, intake, retrolsx cast oil pan, f-body accessories, and ported tb ready to be installed
Right now, I am waiting to borrow some cam tools to do the swap. I am trying to get the small block frame mounts and need an f-body water pump, then I will try and do fitment into the car. Not sure on headers but thinking about the dynatech full length headers.
Before motor goes for a final install, I am installing a quick ratio power steering box from an 86 Monte Carlo SS. Also trying to get a lt1 fbody radiator/fans to install in the car also.
more to come......
Not sure on motor plates
Thanks to a good tax return, I took the plunge and bought a 38K lq4 to put in the back of the garage until I sold of my 454/th350.
Got a buyer for the old drivetrain and now I have a non-operable car again (good at making these
)I have a ls6 cam, springs, pushrods, intake, retrolsx cast oil pan, f-body accessories, and ported tb ready to be installed
Right now, I am waiting to borrow some cam tools to do the swap. I am trying to get the small block frame mounts and need an f-body water pump, then I will try and do fitment into the car. Not sure on headers but thinking about the dynatech full length headers.
Before motor goes for a final install, I am installing a quick ratio power steering box from an 86 Monte Carlo SS. Also trying to get a lt1 fbody radiator/fans to install in the car also.
more to come......
Not sure on motor plates
Last edited by billsnogo; 07-07-2010 at 07:19 PM.
06-27-2010, 06:11 PM
#4
The radiator went with the big block. The LT1 radiator/fans seem a cheap alternative as I can get them for $75, to get a new radiator and add a taurus fan would be $300 plus.
This is going to be pretty budget as I am currently laid off, so it will be a pretty boring swap to start with.
This is going to be pretty budget as I am currently laid off, so it will be a pretty boring swap to start with.
06-28-2010, 11:29 AM
#6
Universal aluminum radiator for around $150 and a Taurus or Mark 8 fan from Upullrparts for $16. The F body radiator are fairly wide for a nova core support.
Most, if not all mounts will require a small cutout at the alternator. Mine required a large cutout due to engine setback.
Most, if not all mounts will require a small cutout at the alternator. Mine required a large cutout due to engine setback.
06-28-2010, 11:36 AM
#7
Universal aluminum radiator for around $150 and a Taurus or Mark 8 fan from Upullrparts for $16. The F body radiator are fairly wide for a nova core support.
Most, if not all mounts will require a small cutout at the alternator. Mine required a large cutout due to engine setback.
Most, if not all mounts will require a small cutout at the alternator. Mine required a large cutout due to engine setback.
Any interference with your power booster?
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06-30-2010, 12:38 AM
#11
I got the ls6 cam swapped in, but should have asked this question first:
Can I use the seals/retainers/keepers from the lq4 with the yellow springs? They all looked the same. I did use the pushrods from the cam, even though the length was the same. For some reason I thought they were longer :shrug:
I am now waiting for the timing cover seal, and looking for a cheaper oil pan gasket as $50 seems a bit much. May cheap out and reuse the old one as it looks good, just need to drill out the rivets.
Can I use the seals/retainers/keepers from the lq4 with the yellow springs? They all looked the same. I did use the pushrods from the cam, even though the length was the same. For some reason I thought they were longer :shrug:
I am now waiting for the timing cover seal, and looking for a cheaper oil pan gasket as $50 seems a bit much. May cheap out and reuse the old one as it looks good, just need to drill out the rivets.
Last edited by billsnogo; 06-30-2010 at 12:49 AM.
06-30-2010, 10:08 AM
#13
Okay, I got everything back together other than the oil pan, I got a fitting included (retro lsx/ jzmotorworks oil pan) that I have no idea what it is for. Does anyone know what it is for?
I found that heating up the pulley make is a piece of cake to just slide it right on, no long bolt needed. Hope it didn't hurt the new timing cover/crank seal
I found that heating up the pulley make is a piece of cake to just slide it right on, no long bolt needed. Hope it didn't hurt the new timing cover/crank seal
06-30-2010, 05:08 PM
#17
Doh, should have known that 
Thanks guys. I am guessing I should apply some thread sealant on that to stop it from vibrating out.
Hopefully sometime in the next couple of weeks I can get the test fitting started
as I have ordered the frame mounts, already have the motor mounts, and have two different e-bay motor plates coming (to see which way the motor fits best).
edit: it is now complete again, and now I need to tear off the front sheet metal of the nogo so moving the motor/tranny in and out will be easier
I think something is wrong in this pic.....
Anyone know how to take a throttle body apart? This one is powder coated red and does not really fit in with anything
Thanks guys. I am guessing I should apply some thread sealant on that to stop it from vibrating out.
Hopefully sometime in the next couple of weeks I can get the test fitting started
as I have ordered the frame mounts, already have the motor mounts, and have two different e-bay motor plates coming (to see which way the motor fits best).edit: it is now complete again, and now I need to tear off the front sheet metal of the nogo so moving the motor/tranny in and out will be easier
I think something is wrong in this pic.....
Anyone know how to take a throttle body apart? This one is powder coated red and does not really fit in with anything
Last edited by billsnogo; 06-30-2010 at 09:35 PM.
07-09-2010, 07:40 PM
#18
Well, been working on getting the old steering box out, and the new one in, have it in except for alignment with steering wheel is off.
Drilled and tapped hole in drivers side of block so I could mount the f-body alternator, as the truck blocks did not have this boss drilled and tapped
I got it pretty close to where it should have been, but it is slighty off as you can see the bolt is not perfectly centered, but still can get the bolt in without much trouble, but did not tap it quite far enough, I need to get a bolt 1/2" shorter
Now the alternator is mounted so I can bolt in the frame stands and hopefully start to trial fit the motor. I will clean and possibly paint the alternator bracket, but the alternator will stay dirty as I would need to disassemble the alternator to get it looking new and not interested in tearing it apart right now
that is all
Drilled and tapped hole in drivers side of block so I could mount the f-body alternator, as the truck blocks did not have this boss drilled and tapped
I got it pretty close to where it should have been, but it is slighty off as you can see the bolt is not perfectly centered, but still can get the bolt in without much trouble, but did not tap it quite far enough, I need to get a bolt 1/2" shorter
Now the alternator is mounted so I can bolt in the frame stands and hopefully start to trial fit the motor. I will clean and possibly paint the alternator bracket, but the alternator will stay dirty as I would need to disassemble the alternator to get it looking new and not interested in tearing it apart right now
that is all
07-11-2010, 05:29 PM
#19
first fit of engine=FAIL! Tried placing the lq4 and 4l80e into the nova and not even close to fitting.
I am using the tall/wide frame stands from tamraz off of ebay.
Energy suspension motor mounts part #31114g
Motor swap plates off of ebay (no setback) that look the same as these
http://matt.undiagnosed.org/ls1/imag...ount_plate.jpg
but I did not measure like an idiot
Well, anyways, when I tried the fitment with no load plate and trying to drop the motor in with the motor mounts attached to frame stands and this is what happened on the passengers side, it looks all good
but on the drivers side it is way off. The jz motorsports oil pan that is supposed to be a good swap for these cars hits the crossmember before it will drop anymore, and even then it doesn't look like it will line up the holes
So I tried it with the load plate to try and raise it a bit and the drivers side hooked up, but this is the passengers side, again the oil pan hits the crossmember, but even if it did not, it looks like it will not be even close
Any ideas?
I am using the tall/wide frame stands from tamraz off of ebay.
Energy suspension motor mounts part #31114g
Motor swap plates off of ebay (no setback) that look the same as these
http://matt.undiagnosed.org/ls1/imag...ount_plate.jpg
but I did not measure like an idiot
Well, anyways, when I tried the fitment with no load plate and trying to drop the motor in with the motor mounts attached to frame stands and this is what happened on the passengers side, it looks all good
but on the drivers side it is way off. The jz motorsports oil pan that is supposed to be a good swap for these cars hits the crossmember before it will drop anymore, and even then it doesn't look like it will line up the holes
So I tried it with the load plate to try and raise it a bit and the drivers side hooked up, but this is the passengers side, again the oil pan hits the crossmember, but even if it did not, it looks like it will not be even close
Any ideas?
Last edited by billsnogo; 07-25-2010 at 02:59 PM.
07-12-2010, 10:36 AM
#20
Is it just me or are those frame stands shorter than the ones on page 4 of this article?
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/68CamaroBlower.pdf
*EDIT* According to this there a few variations on the frame stands. Maybe you need some taller ones. Can you measure from the frame to the center of the mounting holes on yours?
http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_engine.htm
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/68CamaroBlower.pdf
*EDIT* According to this there a few variations on the frame stands. Maybe you need some taller ones. Can you measure from the frame to the center of the mounting holes on yours?
http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_engine.htm