Jimbo1367

[QUOTE=-TheBandit-;14005769]Jimbo - I think the driver's side outlet on the L99 waterpump would interfere with the power steering reservoir mounting on the C6 FEAD, but you may be able to relocate that.

OK. thanks. For some reason I thought I seen some newer Vette with the drivers side WP outlet. I must of been looking at something else.

JIm

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Any luck finding out if the alternator hits the frame? The L99 setup you purchased is certainly better looking than a quik setup.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and thanks for the engine stand idea too.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

The L99 alternator bracket will not work with the LY6 (or probably any earlier Gen III/IV) alternator because hole spacing is different on the L99. It has the same mounting hole spacing for attaching to the block, but it no longer shares the upper hole with the alternator and the alternator has differnet hole spacing. I decided against buying an L99 alternator due to cost and uncertainty of compatability & fitment, so for now my plan is to use the LY6 alternator either with a 4th gen F-body bracket or mounted on the driver's side someplace. Based on research, I think the truck alternator has a low probability of fitting in the 4th gen F-body location without notching the frame.

I have also been fiddling around with this idea for putting the alternator on the passenger side above the waterpump. The "bracket" in the pictures is just a piece of cardstock that I printed from a Solidworks drawing on my printer and cut out with scissors for mockup. I would run a turnbuckle between the driver's side hole on the alternator and the hole below it on the bracket to adjust tension. After making the mockup, I realized the hole for the turnbuckle should be lower and not as far from the mounting holes. Of course there would also be spacers between the alternator and the cylinder head.





If I decide to go this route, I will put the a/c compressor in the stock location, requiring significant notching of the frame. I'm not sure what I want to do yet though. There are a lot of different options with different drawbacks.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Wow. With all of your knowledge and engineering you could come up with L92/L99/LY6 swap kit that might look better than the kwik kit. Until then, I'm probably going in the kwik direction with stock LY6 water pump and accept that my throttle body will be very close to the water pump. I guess the alternative is a notched frame or a cowl hood or more money.

lolife55

I am using C5 brkt spaced out to match pulleys with L99 wp, LS3 TB. Will take pic once I get wp. Just needed confirmation this wp would clear the vvt. Didn't like the look of the kwik, and didn't want to notch frame. Probably will have to go kwik for the AC comp once I add that later.

Slow build 2nd gen.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure if you were asking for comfirmation, but yes, the L99 waterpump clears the VVT timing cover and lines up with the LY6 crank pulley. I am not sure if the driver's outlet would interfere with the power steering reservoir with the C5 setup, but if you need pictures or dimensions to help confirm, I'm happy to provide them. Also I am 99% sure this would work with an LS3 throttlebody because the LS3 camaros use the same waterpump. Really I should be calling this a 5th gen Camaro waterpump/accessory drive because it is identical for the L99 and LS3 in the Camaro, just not the same as the C6 LS3 accessory drive.

awesomerob

my car is a 1970 novq, with the factory a/c system, with the s & p mounts and headers , the drivers side fit excellent, the passenger side required a very slight notch on the bottom side of the a/c box, from under neath, from up top youu cant tell at all, i used my die grinder and notched the box , fibre glassed it and put some resistant tape that sticks on the box, done deal , with those mounts i have room at the back and front enough for a mechanical fan. i used a kwik performance(e-bay) a/c compressor relocation brackets, ,,no way i was going to notch my frame!! besides my 1 1/4 sway bar presented issues , lots of room on the passenger side for it

i will be at the car this afternoon and set you up with some pics
good luck
awesomerob,canada

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

awesomerob, thank you for the info. Was your car an original small block or original big block car? I have been told the a/c suitcases are different. I'd love to see pictures of how & where you notched the box. I am leaning toward a Vintage Air unit to free up space, but retaining factory AC also has it's pluses. Any other info you have on ac performance and what you did to conver to R134a would be great to hear. Where did you put your alternator and what alternator is it?

68Problemchild

iTrader: (1)

These photos of mine may help. 1998 Camaro alt fits but its low amps and requires converting a two wire plug to the 4 wire plug. Suggest a high amp aftermarket design.

Also spacers, as you found, are not quite 3/4". I ended up using washers to space it out perfectly. Lots of trial and error to eliminate the belt squeal, particularly after the vintage air was put on.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41575483@N07/4396957856/

Jimbo1367

Just so everyone knows..... it looks like the C6 FEAD kit will work with the L99 WP. I am using this pic from PACE Performance as a referance.
www.paceperformance.com/images/F15183946.gif

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

This weekend I shifted my focus away from the engine & accessories and instead worked on tearing the front end down and cleaning things up. Here's a shot of me just after pulling the fenders off.





My wife scored a free working pressure washer (electric 1550 psi Husky) a couple weeks ago. Wish I had a pressure washer a long time ago!











It took a combination of power and hand washing to get things cleaned up, but I'm happy with how it came out.





I found some of the nasty stuff under the fenders this time. Anyone have ideas on where the water comes from that causes rust in this area? I'm guess it must have pooled up inside, but I'm not sure where inside is or how water would get there.





Here is a picture from TEN years ago when I did the frame off on the car. I wish it were still as nice! If you want to read about that old build, take a look here: http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/



Things have come a long way. Back then I barey had my driver's license. Today I am married with a two month old. Here are my wife and son with the car.



That's all for today. More updates as I make progress.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

The water will come in through the top cowl vent area... if it should have an area to drain, but if it gets plugged. that is the results. I was lucky, mine is clean and rust free. good luck on getting it cleaned up and sealed again.. good think it is not an area where it will be visable..

70Nova SS

Any soft spots under that vinyl top? I had to get rid of one of my past Novas because someone thought chicken wire and bondo would make a good roof.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Did you order your pan yet? Mast guys told me today theirs might start shipping next week, cast, baffled and $400. You probably already know about that one too.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Last night I knocked out the rusted area on the driver's side. It was full of moist dirt and leaves - enough to fill a gallon bucket. I'm thinking about putting some mesh or perforated sheet up at the cowl vent to prevent this from happening again. It'll be a fun one to repair!

70NovaSS - I haven't found any soft spots around the vinyl top, but the rear window frame and lower quarter panel areas have some rust eaten sections. I plan to repair those when I paint the car - hopefully in a couple years.

futureuser - I haven't ordered my pan yet, but I'm still leaning toward the Champ / Autokraft pan. It looks to have better oil control. I can appreciate that the Mast pan is cast and includes provisions for an oil level sensor and pressure relief, but keeping oil at the pickup is the most important thing a pan can do and I think the Champ pan will do a better job with it's baffled, trap door design.

70Nova SS

1968-70 Outer Cowl Side Panels Replace your rusted or damaged cowl side panels with these quality reproductions. These panels are installed behind the fenders at the sides of the firewall.Part# C69541L, C69541R $89.99EA

http://www.classicindustries.com/nov...s/c69541r.html

Can't help you with the money though, have a 2 year old myself and one on the way. Hoping to save up the money and paint mine in a couple years too.

I saw a 68 Nova at a carshow once that had a piece of plexi-glass with wing nuts to hold it in place and a foam seal to keep trash out of the cowl, I guess it would work alright.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the link 70NovaSS. I don't think I'll need the entire side panel area. The damaged sections I have should be easy enough to form from sheet. My biggest concern is preventing this from happening in the future. The only thing I can think of is to eliminate the ingress of leaves at the cowl vents. I can't think of a practical way to put a drain in large enough at the bottom, so I'll try to do something up top.

70Nova SS

A cheap way to fix your leaf problem would be to glue screen material, screen door style, to the inside of the cowl panel. Lets air in and keeps trash out.

Jimbo1367

Clint,
Damn, look how clean it is after he power washed it. That wouldn't happen here in NY. Do you plan on leaving the subframe/engine compartment red or plan on a change?