jonathan_ed3

iTrader: (4)

I need to run fuel pump wires through a sending unit that originally did not have a fuel pump inside the tank.

Anybody got any ideas?

I saw a relatively prominent shop just drill a hole and JBWeld the wires into place to make it gas tight.

Any other suggestions? For some reason I just don't like the idea that much, but it may be what I end up going with for simplicity sake.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

There are what they call Bulkhead connectors. They are used to pass electrica wires through the sending units or other (firewalls, floorboards, etc) panels.

I know Racetronix has a option to order it as a upgrade to there wiring/pump kits.

I had an emergency fix on my setup.. that the oem bulkhead was failing. I did a roadside fix.. (which is still in place). I took out the oem bulkhead fitting, used a rubber gromlet pass the wire through the hole and then some Gas Ressistance silicone to help seal everything up.

jetback73nova

I did a lot of reasurch on this subject when I was customizing my intank set up. there are some bulkhead fittings out there but they are realy expensive and large (I was usign the stock chevy sender door). I soldered a 2" length of5/16 steel hardline through my sender door and passed the wire through that then jb welded both ends and sealed them with POR-15 gas tank slosh paint. another idea I thought about was just useing the stock sender passthrough bolt rubber washer thing for the positive and just grouding through the door. the increase in amps from the stock sender to a pump worried me with this idea. also dont forget to use intank rated wires so they dont loose there insulation and ark when you are low on gas. I have pick of my setup if you want.

jonathan_ed3

iTrader: (4)

jetback73nova, if you have some pics to post up I would love to see them.

I might just use a standard bulkhead fitting, pass the wires through it, and pour a bunch of JB weld down the hole and let it setup.

Where do you get gasoline rated wiring?

jetback73nova

here is my tank build thread and another thread i started when I had the same questions as you.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...bro-setup.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ted-wires.html

I ended up using an extra long pigtail made for a walbro pump. if your pump is a walbro i can tell you where to get it or if not you could still order the 42 inch pigtail I got and just use the wire as it is fuel rated, other than that it is realy hard to get straight answers about this stuff, I guss everyone is willing to drop a G on custom tank or $400 on a tanks inc's $120 worth of parts.

Jimbo1367

I always wondered about the positive wire being exposed inside the tank. Wouldn't the gas ground out the positive? Does anyone know what I am thinking? Maybe I am not thinking of it correctly? I'll have to look at Tanks Inc's setup again.

jonathan_ed3

iTrader: (4)

jetback73nova...interesting, I actually replied in your tank thread! On the setup I have done in the past on my old Honda I used an existing fuel pump hanger assembly, so I didn't have this wiring problem come about.

Where did you get your Walboro harness? I'm using a Bosch 44 pump, and would like to use 12gauge wire if possible. Do you know what gauge the wire is on the harness you found?

Jimbo1367....I haven't put too much thought about the wiring issue inside the tank. All I know is that OE's have been doing it for years now, and there don't seem to be any major precautions taken to prevent any problems. I guess it's a non-issue....?

jonathan_ed3

iTrader: (4)

http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fddualfuelpumps.htm

using these

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1431/?rtype=10

Interesting idea. I wonder if the plastic on those bulkhead fittings is gasoline resistant?

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WS-001&eq=&Tp=

Universal Bulkhead Wiring System, 4-Way

claytonisbob

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I would have done the Racetronix wiring above if I knew it existed before I modified my tank. That's a pretty slick setup and I'm really happy with the other parts I got from them.

Since I had 3 wires coming out of my tank, 2 from the new pump and 1 from the oem fuel level sender. I drilled a hole in the sending unit plate right where the old nylon bulkhead wire terminal was for the level sender. I made it just big enough to pass a really short piece of 5/16" tubing that I sanded the ends really well to keep it from chafing the wires (<1" piece). I epoxied the tube in place with some JBweld. I ran the + and - pump wires through that and sealed it with that fuel proof sealant (the stuff I use is really expensive at $14 a tube, but it's the only one I could see that was truly fuel resistant... other than an epoxy; I wanted to be able to pull the wires out if I ever needed to.). Then I just drilled a 1/8 hole for the wire I had running to the fuel level sender and passed it through and sealed it. It might sound kinda hokey, but it looks pretty robust, and I'm not worried about a short. Having a weatherPak connector would have been nice though.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

That will probably be OK as long as you used a gas-safe wire like Teflon and it does not wick the fuel from the tank.

claytonisbob

iTrader: (1)

I used some excess wire that came on the extra pump harness I got from you guys, thanks!

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

From our external or in-tank harness?

jonathan_ed3

iTrader: (4)

Can you elaborate on how exactly this thing is installed? Once it's installed is it permanent? How large of a hole needs to be drilled for it?

The disclaimer on your site about buying parts for the unit make it seem like many people who have bought it have either mangled/broken it trying to install it.

I understand as a merchant you have to assume the consumer has a certain amount of skill but the disclaimer doesn't inspire much confidence lol

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

The most common error is when people press on the locking clip they do not check the orientation of the connector which places the in-tank connector 180 degrees out as well as the lock tab. The second most common error is forgetting to put back the o-ring and provide a clean sealing surface. The locking clip can be pressed on with a deep socket and a vise. The locking clip is a one-way deal.

jonathan_ed3

iTrader: (4)

Gotcha, thanks for the info.

Can you tell me how large of a hole needs to be drilled for it? Since there's no point of reference I can't get an idea about how big that connector is. My sending unit lid is pretty small, so I want to make sure I don't run out of surface area to mount it.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

It requires a 3/8" hole.
The B/C connector is 1" wide where the connector plugs in.
Max height above its mounting surface is 5/8".

claytonisbob

iTrader: (1)

In-tank harness: UITWH-18

The pump kit came with one, but I also ordered another one with longer wires because I was retrofitting it into a Chevelle tank. Plus I thought it was a good $4.50 to spend on some wire I knew was fuel proof.

Racetronix

iTrader: (2)

Yes, the UITWH series is a good value. Keep an eye on the sealant to make sure it stays bonded to the Teflon wire b/c the surface is very slick and resistant to bonding.