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L92 needs smaller 2 wire alt

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Old 10-06-2010, 07:40 PM
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Default L92 needs smaller 2 wire alt

This is a 2007 escalade L92 into a 68 Camaro. Its installed on drivers side low but its hitting the frame and won't line up/getting belt squeal. It has a two wire plug on the large alternator.

I looked at 1998 Camaro's which are smaller and fit but its 4 wire. Anyone know of a 07 smaller two wire alt or

how to wire a 4 wire to a 2 wire plug?

Note: The 4 wire 1998 Camaro alternator is only 105 amps. Not sure this is sufficient to run the L92.

Thanks. Any help very much appreciated.
Old 10-06-2010, 09:33 PM
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Either the 2 wire or the 4 wire alternator only needs 1 wire hooked up to work. The 160 amp alternator on the L92 is there due to the high amp load the Escalade has due to all the electronics. The engine itself doesn't require more current than the LS1 that would have had the 105 amp alternator. You need to determine what your current requirements for your vehicle are and then size your alternator accordingly. On the 4 wire you just need to connect to pin B from the ECU. This 2 wire I can't remember which pin is needed but I can check my car tomorrow. I have the 160amp alternator hooked up in my 240SX and it is wired like the F-Body alternator and it works great.
Old 10-08-2010, 01:22 PM
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Check these out.

Would L92 Brown and Gray both go to "B" on the 4 wire? Looks like this should help alot of people if its correct.
Attached Thumbnails L92 needs smaller 2 wire alt-07-escalade.jpg   L92 needs smaller 2 wire alt-98camaro.gif  
Old 10-09-2010, 05:14 PM
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Tried Red wire on my harness to "B" on the 4 plug with a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. Red wire (when unplugged from alt) does have current with engine running.
Gray "field" wire from my harness to "C" on the plug. Grey has no current.



This is working now but it took 5 mins for alt to turn on.

Just Brn(red on my harness) to B with 1/2 watt 470 Ohm in line resistor
Grey to C and it excites the alternator F terminal counts on EFI live.

Works with and without resistor but without resister, volts must drop to 11.3 or so before it kicks in. With resistor its like 11.8.
Just a theory but this old alternator seems just "on" or "off" Where as I think the new larger one may have been variable out put.

Engine starts to lag for volts and then the alt kicks in and jumps it back to life. Well, it works.

Last edited by 68Problemchild; 10-10-2010 at 12:46 PM.
Old 10-10-2010, 07:30 PM
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Hook pin 1 from your harness to B on the F-body alternator. It should turn on and charge normally.



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