Aluminum Fittings on Stainless fuel line?
10-11-2010, 10:38 AM
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Aluminum Fittings on Stainless fuel line? Are there going to be any issues if I run aluminum AN fittings on Stainless fuel line? Specifically with disimilar metals? Do I need to go with Stainless tube nuts? At some point I have to swap over to the aluminum fittings used on the soft lines.
10-11-2010, 04:55 PM
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-6AN for the 3/8" line. Im just not sure about the chemical reaction between the aluminum fitting and the stainless line.
10-11-2010, 06:38 PM
#4
Theres no reaction when you run gas through it. Alcohol will eat up the alum once it gets through the anodized coating
Use the tube sleeve/nut/flared line combo or ditch the hardlines all together and run 100% flex (braided SS or other)
Also, AN stuff is measured in 1/16" so 5/16" would be AN5 and 3/8"=6/16" would be AN6
Use the tube sleeve/nut/flared line combo or ditch the hardlines all together and run 100% flex (braided SS or other)
Also, AN stuff is measured in 1/16" so 5/16" would be AN5 and 3/8"=6/16" would be AN6
10-11-2010, 08:41 PM
#5
If you're talking about flared SS hard lines, the flares will need to be perfect or they will leak. I did this years ago and had to use seal cones on most of mine to get them to seal. I wouldn't even consider trying to get a seal using aluminum compression fittings on SS hard lines.
10-11-2010, 11:26 PM
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If you're talking about flared SS hard lines, the flares will need to be perfect or they will leak. I did this years ago and had to use seal cones on most of mine to get them to seal. I wouldn't even consider trying to get a seal using aluminum compression fittings on SS hard lines.
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10-12-2010, 11:12 PM
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I am doing this with some AN8 stainless right now. I just cut mine with a hacksaw right in the other side of the clamp for the flaring tool(the non tapered side) and it cuts it perfect. You can then smooth it with a file or it will develop a crack when you flare it. Also an inside/outside tube/pipe reamer can be had from harbor freight for like $3. Definitely worthwhile. My stainless is allegedly double annealed as well, but I still cooked the ends with a propane torch before I flare them. Makes a huge difference in the quality of the flare. FWIW I'm using aluminum ends as well, so hopefully they work out just fine. Here's a link to answer your question though: LINK Stainless and aluminum don't seem to like each other much according to their chart, but if you read, that is without any coating or plating. They are basing this on raw metals touching one another which almost never happens. In other words anodized aluminum should be ok as long as the anodization holds up.
10-13-2010, 11:34 AM
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I am doing this with some AN8 stainless right now. I just cut mine with a hacksaw right in the other side of the clamp for the flaring tool(the non tapered side) and it cuts it perfect. You can then smooth it with a file or it will develop a crack when you flare it. Also an inside/outside tube/pipe reamer can be had from harbor freight for like $3. Definitely worthwhile. My stainless is allegedly double annealed as well, but I still cooked the ends with a propane torch before I flare them. Makes a huge difference in the quality of the flare. FWIW I'm using aluminum ends as well, so hopefully they work out just fine. Here's a link to answer your question though: LINK Stainless and aluminum don't seem to like each other much according to their chart, but if you read, that is without any coating or plating. They are basing this on raw metals touching one another which almost never happens. In other words anodized aluminum should be ok as long as the anodization holds up.
Yeah, at somepoint Ill have to convert from stainless to aluminum. What are you flaring your lines with? I haven't picked up a flaring tool yet.
10-13-2010, 03:18 PM
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I am using a Ridgid 41285 Model 375 flaring tool, but it starts at 1/2" and goes up from there, so if you're doing smaller, you can use the 41162 Model 377. Keep in mind these tools max out at .035 wall thickness for stainless and are both 37 degree single flare(37 doesn't get double flared) SAE/JIC/AN units. The reason I mention this is because my bender which is a swagelock MS-HTB-8 has a minimum wall thickness of .035 for stainless, so I'm pretty much devoted to that tubing size unless I get some more tools. THIS is a great writeup on how to work with stainless. I also got through some initial snags by going over to the RIDGID plumbing forum and asking some pros there. These guys were great! Answered fast and sent me in the right direction.
10-14-2010, 09:48 AM
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I am using a Ridgid 41285 Model 375 flaring tool, but it starts at 1/2" and goes up from there, so if you're doing smaller, you can use the 41162 Model 377. Keep in mind these tools max out at .035 wall thickness for stainless and are both 37 degree single flare(37 doesn't get double flared) SAE/JIC/AN units. The reason I mention this is because my bender which is a swagelock MS-HTB-8 has a minimum wall thickness of .035 for stainless, so I'm pretty much devoted to that tubing size unless I get some more tools. THIS is a great writeup on how to work with stainless. I also got through some initial snags by going over to the RIDGID plumbing forum and asking some pros there. These guys were great! Answered fast and sent me in the right direction.
