jeepnut24

Has anyone bent up custom transmission coolant lines? Im looking for pictures on the best way to route new hard lines. If you have pictures of the factory lines that would be awesome too. I can't ever seem to find a set in the Junkyard to look over/ reuse. Id like to run them up along the block, but Im not sure if thats the best route?

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

Mine are hard and run down past the starter and above the cross member then go to rubber hose and into a trans cooler in front of my radiator. What are you putting it in that you would need factory pics of?

jeepnut24

Its going in my Wrangler. Im just trying to find some pictures of how people are running the lines and then mounting them to the motor. I figured Id ask for pictures of the factory lines while I was asking so I could compare. Im hoping I can run hardline up the block, then braided stainless to the cooler. I was hoping to see how others were running their lines.

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

i always run mine right up tight to the block on all my ls swaps so far. and the ls1 has a bracket bolted to the block that holds the lines, so its a non issue if you are worried about heat.

jeepnut24

Mine didn't have the bracket on it when I got it. Im not to worried about heat, just trying to get a better idea on the path the lines should take along the block.

Are aluminum lines ok? Or do I need to step up to steel?

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

I also routed mine up next to the block and then through a gap in the core support to the cooler. If you are running an auxiliary cooler with rubber lines, take measures to make sure the rubber lines do not come off the hard lines. I oiled down a section of I-10 in the California Desert and it was not a fun experience! Couple ways to do it, you can put a slight flair in the end of the hard line that the hose will still go over, then clamp it. Another method is to make sure both the rubber line and the hard line are snugged down to something so they won't move. That will prevent pressure from being able to push the rubber line off. You can also put a clamp on the hard line upstream of the hose with a zip tie clamped under it. Then run the zip tie under the clamp on the hose. After the clamp is tight, connect the zip tie and pull it snug. That will prevent the clamp and hose from moving on the hard line.

Pat

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

This is what I did, except rather than making a regular flair, I put a bubble-flair on it using the tube clamp from a fractional/standard flaring set (3/8") and a metric bubble-flair press from a metric set (10mm). That way, you don't have the edge of the flair digging into the trans hose.

jeepnut24

If I go with aluminum line, Ill just flare it and run AN nuts to matching AN line to the cooler. I may do the same with stainless if I have enough left after bending up my fuel lines. Ive got some steel line as well.

Any pictures of your setups?

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

I ran AN6 SS braided

I swapped a 3rd gen Fbody and the auto trans lines were in the same location. Only the trans fitting changed from 4L60 to 4L60E. They kept leaking so I ditched the hardlines completely

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

if you go alum or steel if you want braided lines just use hardline adapters. super easy and work great and you dont have to bother flaring. these are the one im using for my fuel line in my malibu http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-165010ERL/

sierrac3_s2000

iTrader: (6)

I ran stainless braided AN -6 straight from the trans to the cooler. You can buy the 1/4 NPS to AN adapters and I used a cooler that already had AN -6 fittings on it. I made a few brackets along the block to support them too. Really easy way to go.

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

-6an FTW. I like it just so I don't have to screw with the factory clips