scoobysmak

Well I after looking around and seeing every LS1 motor was over $2k I just picked up an LY5 to mate to my T56. I know its a 2008 truck motor, the dash board was toasted so the mileage did not show up but even if it was driven 15k miles last year the most it could have is 30k on it (title info used). Just incase it is useful my end project weight should be around 3000lbs and have 3.73 rear end with 26.7 inch tall tires. I don't plan to open up the motor for more power but might add a LS6 cam to it if it won't hurt the low end. I will have custom air filter and custom exhaust, and some sort of intake.

My project is going to require the lowest profile intake and oil pan I can find (I should put with in reason). The oil pan seems to be easy, the F-body is within 1/4" of the corvette pan and cost a 1/4 of the price (looking under the oil pan sticky it seems I can get a new oil pan for around $270 but probably need all the parts as well, so far the best price I saw used was $250 for everything but have not searched very hard either).

The intake seems to be the hardest part for me to make up my mind about. The LS1 intake I think would work but will lose some low end torque Vs the truck intake. I prefer the feeling of torque for the low end cause I normally don't run around above 4500 RPM very often. The LS6 intake seems to have a few benifits but paying a pretty penny why not get the FAST intake. This seems to have everything (including the price though). I am really lost on this one, if someone has some great ideas I would love to hear about it.

When I switch intakes how much other work am I going to run into, well help me out. I know the truck accessories won't mount up to a car intake. I need to plan a water pump and not sure if the corvette accessories would be better or the F-body stuff would fit just as good and probalby easier to find. The only accessories I want to drive are the alt, water pump, and A/C (I do not plan for power steering). Will I have to swap fuel rails and injectors, probably but don't know.

My next problem comes to wiring this thing up, apperantly the 2008 throttle body is fully electronic. I have seen the faces of a few when I tell them what I got and uh the result is not good. I have been told to just get a prefabed wiring harness and go with a manual throttle body. just wonder opinions on this, I would like a clean install and the fewer wires to hide the better but open to suggestions.

I am sure there are many other things that I don't see as a problem yet but a few of you may have found the hard way. I would like to avoid the hard way if at all possible.

zipster

iTrader: (5)

To help the torque maybe advancing the cam a few degrees, this will bring the power lower in the rpms, Also the LS1 intake can be gotten for cheap, usually under $50.00 without rails or injectors. Check my photobucket build, I have a LQ4 put a LS1 intake manifold, modified the fuel rails, modified the front accessories and water pump. Swapping over to the LS1 intake only cost me $90.00, including the intake!

scoobysmak

Thanks for the info, at this moment my project is in with another person doing this type swap and but he went ahead and got an LS1. He can't use the intake from what I hear and we might just swap between the two but he is going to keep his oil pan for sure (this is a rough guess but I think he had went ahead and got some chrome or billet truck accessory pulleys and brackets, and the intake won't mount up now. He has plenty of hood clearance).

Guess I could look on Ebay and here for an oil pan but not sure what most are selling for besides the one I saw with everything included for $250 used. What would be the cost if i bought a new oil pan and all the parts that go to it? I have the part numbers and can call myself but if some one has this info on hand it would be appreciated.

Thanks

scoobysmak

Well here is an update, I got an F body oil pan but need the windage tray and pick up tube. I look on here but have not had much lucky lately. I might just have to suck up the dealer price. For the intake, the LS1 did not happen, he went ahead and sold the motor complete because he found an LS6.

I am now without an intake, I might just plan on getting a full LS6 intake setup and will buy a LS6 cam to put in. The prices here seem to be about $400 bucks for an intake, for just a bit more I can buy from a company instead of waiting for the deal of a lifetime (and been burned too many times on that one, but open to suggestion). I have looked for an LS6 cam but I can get one from the GM performance parts but these don't appear too often unless I just don't know what I am looking for.

My wiring harness I still have no clue what to do, I have not gotten any input on the Gen IV stuff like I have. People seem scared to touch it. I do not have an ignition key so I might have to change to a Gen III computer and harness or if someone can crack the Gen IV computer now I might be in luck.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't worry about losing torque with the LS1 intake. these motors have so much more grunt everywhere that it will almost certainly be better than most old school small block motors.

Are you sure you need to switch the accesories because you switched intakes? I thought most guys just turn the water pump outlet a bit. Kwik performance sells all sorts of alternator mounting kits if you run into hood clearance issues with the truck alternator.

There is a ton of info on wiring harnesses in here. Computer reprograms are pretty standard stuff, but you do need some pricey software to do it yourself. Lots of sponsers on here modifiy harnesses and reprogram the computer for you. Speartech seems to be the one most guys talk about.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

I'm not a pro but I would be surprised if in any real world driving around scenario you noticed a difference in torque between intakes. If you were hesitant to spend $2k on a complete motor it wouldn't make much sense to spend $400 or more on a chunk of plastic. The classifieds here is generally full of good stuff and can save you a bunch if you have some time to spend.

scoobysmak

Appreciate the comments, for the accessory problem, I plan on running a full billet setup on the front, at this point I would buy the front parts for a car and be done with it. I admit, looking back on my post it looks a little silly but I wanted a cast iron block VS alumium. Its about 100 LBS difference and the cast iron can hold more HP if I ever get that motivated to do so. If I ever added things like a supercharger or some NOS, I would just feel better about the cast iron.

I will probalby just run an LS1 intake, if I want more I can sell the intake and pretty much get what I paid for it. Plus this would be a pretty simple swap, on top of the motor and easy access to change (well compaired to other things).

The wiring is where I see part of my problem. I want a nice clean installation, not that chevy did a terrible job but I have seen other wiring harness look much nicer than factory. I have been thinking about running like a full FAST EFI kit, wiring harness new computer, the works. This would elminate part of my issues and should be able to have a really nice install, as a bonus as I added a cam or something, it can be retuned to match what I have. I really like the option to have a switch inside that I can change from a HP tune to economy tune, I might drive this over 400 miles each way to get to a show. Once I get there if I get froggy or some smart butt in mommy's mustag acts up I can flick a switch for a nice suprise. My only problem is I have tried once or twice to contact FAST just to make sure an aftermarket system would work on a 5.3 Vs the LS1/LS6 or LS2 setups they sell (not sure if you can reset the displacement or not). I left a voice mail for Robin but so far no response yet.

I have not tried anyone else but open to suggestions, my first thought was to run a painless wiring kit and buy a III Gen ECM (I think I have to have a III Gen ECM because I do not have the ignition key to operate my IV Gen ECM). I started to look at the cost, over a grand and probalby have to buy a few III Gen sensors to make it work (I could be wrong but I know one of the sensors is in a different location for the DOD function and a few others that GM added). This is where if I am spending that much, go all out and do it right the first time.

I just want to do it once, and do it right the first time, if that is possible.