LS1 TJ

On my 79 Camaro LS1 swap I made mine out of 3/8" CRS. Traced the outline of the stock exhaust flange and then used a hole saw to cut the the 2.5" hole. A little crude but never a problem in 4 years of street driving.

Docked Wage

I got a lucky break and found some flanges with a couple of inches of pipe and gaskets on the shelf at my local parts store.

Docked Wage

Progress was slow for the last week while I was chasing down parts needed to build the exhaust system. I should be able to get that done and welded in this weekend.

I have managed to get the harness modified. The easiest way to do it was spread it out on the living room floor and go to town.

LS1 TJ

Took the plow off last week and drove it to work one day last week.

First time since mid December last year and it was great.

4 1/2 months of plowing the driveway. 32 miles on the odometer and 3/4 tank of gas for the winter.

It's a LS swap that can be driven everyday.

Docked Wage

Progress has been good over the last couple of days.

1. Finished fabricating the exhaust system. (my arms are sore)
2. Got the BDS Shocks on.
3. Installed the new Inline Tube Stainless Brake Line Set.
4. Have the Standalone Harness plugged into the engine connectors.
5. Fuel Sending Unit has been modified and Walbro In-tank 255LPH pump is on.

If all continues to go well I think I'll get it fired up next week.

LS1 TJ

Just remember when you pull out to pass for the first time, pull out get square with the vehicle in front and then punch it. Just FYI!

welldonecj7

iTrader: (13)

Any photos of the progress?

jeepnut24

More pictures please, I would love to see your exhaust setup.

gcallahan

iTrader: (4)

Nice build. I have a built CJ7 with a chevy 350. I have just started a LS conversion in my 69 camaro but now I am thinking, why not the jeep too? Thanks.

Docked Wage

Jeepnut,

I did things a little different than most have done. I'll get a couple of pics later in the week.

gcalahan,

Thanks for the compliment. It's been a learning experience and this site has been invaluable.

Ken

Docked Wage

Here a couple shots of the Engine Bay.

Docked Wage

Here's some detail shots.

Clearance of the Power Steering Pump to the Lower Steering Shaft is 3/4"

For the pressure side of the Power Steering Pump to the Steering Box I used a stock Jeep Hose. Had to adjust the bends slightly. The return line was just 3/8" hose slipped on the fittings.

Both Radiator Hoses were found at my local autoparts store. I cut and bent a coat hanger for both then found a couple of molded hoses and chopped of what I did not need. No adapters. Hoses are one piece. Oh yes and they are made right here in the good old U.S.A.!

Fuel Pump is a Walbro GSS 310. Make sure to use Submersible line in the tank. If it does not say SAE 30R10 on it do not put it in the tank. Anything else will get eaten away by the ethanol that is in the fuel.

Docked Wage

These pics are not part of this build but they show what can happen when you don't use stuff in the fuel system that is not SAE rated for the current 10% (soon to be 15%) Ethanol gas.

The hose was from a boat with a V6 outboard. You can see the inner liner has collapsed. As a result the boat had a loss of power up top.

The O-ring was from a fitting on my motorhome. Always use Viton or equivalent in a fuel system.

The last was the factory fuel pick up setup from a 1999 Arctic Cat EFI Snowmobile. The damage is to the outer liner of the hose. You can see it's all wrinkled up in the center. Sooner or later a kink would happen.

I've also attached a Gates document that defines the correct hose specs for use with current fuels.

Docked Wage

Here's a pic of the beginning of the wire up. Looks more like the beginning of a bird nest than an engine harness but I've done this type of work before so I ain't skeerd.

LS1 TJ

I'm not an electrical guy. I have always light weighted out and bought the harness. Good luck with the wiring.

welldonecj7

iTrader: (13)

Looking really good keep updating, I just got an 06 lq4 for a cj7 haven't decided if ill pull the gmpp crate motor in mine or if we will put it in my dads as his motor is not in his jeep

Jeep09

its coming along. we just my my LS6 Painless harness/ ECM talking to the the TJ Jeep computer. Its spins on the key, a bit more plumbing and it should start up. I have a Jeep Wizzard doing mine so he is a Chrysler mechanic and a hardcore Jeep guy too. He siad it is a pretty basic swap.

Docked Wage

A little more info on how I did the harness...

1. I started with the complete harness from the donor vehicle. No cuts anywhere.

2. Then I peeled off the convoluted tubing and carefully slit off the tape that kept the harness bound together.

3. With mineral spirits on a rag I wiped the wire bundles to remove the tape adhesive that was left behind.

4. After letting the harness hang out in the garage for a day or two I brought it in the house and stretched it out on the living room floor after evicting the Zhu-Zhu pets and their town. (pile to the right)

5. The I sat down with the laptop and pulled up the schematics.

6. I then removed the unneeded pins and wires and untangled the other connectors so every run was an independent straight shot.

7. Since I wanted permanently identified connectors, I used a Labeler with the extra strength adhesive labels and labeled every connector.

Here's a lousy pic of the harness stretched out on the floor. It's about 16 feet from the PCM connectors to the most distant (trans) connector.

Docked Wage

The pic in post #74 was the beginning of the harness install. I placed the PCM connectors where I expected to mount the PCM and then one at a time I threaded the wires and connectors to their locations and plugged them in.

FWIW, the only wires I need to lengthen are the #1 Injector and the Alternator Controller wires.

That's where I left it before I had to travel for work again. I'll get a pic and post it tomorrow.

Docked Wage

Here's how I built the intake setup for $126.00:

1. Ordered two elbows from siliconeintakes.com (3.5" x 4" and 4" x 4")

2. Got a 24" x 4" flexible dryer hose with the flanges on it and 3 rolls of the silicone self sealing tape by Natshua. Hose was $6.00 and the rolls of tape were $6.00 each at Home Depot.

3. Stretched the 3.5" end of the elbow over the 3-5/8" MAF and pushed on a K&N 4" filter.

4. Used the silicone sealing tape and wrapped it around the throttle body flange because it's just under 4" and a tight seal is needed. The tape sticks like crazy to itself and to the silicone intake elbows. You'll never slide the hose over the tape without wetting both with soapy water. After that they go together with ease. When the water dries the tape then sticks to the elbow for a perfect seal.

5. After the Elbow was on the Throttle body and the Filter/MAF assembly was in it's new home I installed and formed the dryer hose.

6. At first I intended for the dryer hose to be temporary and for mock up purposes only. However, I decided to use 2 more rolls of the silicone tape (10 ft each) and wrapped the dryer hose from end to end for a perfect seal. It's amazing how tough the tubing is after it's wrapped with the silicone tape.

7. After a little soapy water everything was together and I tightened the clamps.

To complete the install I'll make a bracket to hold the air filter and get some sheet ABS to isolate the filter from the hot engine air.