sr57e

what about using 4X4 lsx? nice build tho. post up vids! i might do this to my taco after im done with my second ls1 240.

Guam_Guy

Curious as to how you handled your wiring. I am gathering parts for a ls swap into a 1979 2wd truck. Should be fun seeing as how the truck only weighs about 2000 pounds.

Speed Freek

iTrader: (2)

I agree, especially once its making big power traction is gonna be hard to come by..

I am going to make some vids of it in the next week or so using my wifes new awesome Canon still camera, I think it will do some really clean video..wow 2nd 240 huh, I would love to have one of those, but I have a 67 Camaro instead...maybe someday

Wiring is VERY easy, probably the easiest swap ever (as far as wiring anyway).

However lots of custom work is needed to make it fit, modified and welded oilpan, cut and built a new crossmember and engine perches and mounts, also cut off the core support to make it removable, cut the trans crossmember and make that removable, plus build your own headers from scratch, nothing will fit that is it already produced, or if it has I couldnt find it.


So whats new with me?
Well, last week I put some 3.90 gears in it, it really gets up and goes now and still has plenty of top end with the 6 speed and decent mileage (best of 24mpg so far).

I am currently working on building a new gauge cluster with autometer gauges, I will only be able to fit (2) 5" and (2) 2" for a total of 4 gauges and I will need 7 total. I already have a wideband and boost installed.

I plan on the 5" gauges being tach and speedo, the smaller gauges will be oil pressure, water temp, fuel level, wideband, and boost/vacuum.

As far as the rear end I have its got a pretty strong rear in it now (its from the V6 and has an 8.5" ring gear), I know a guy running the smaller Toyota axle and he has put over 600hp to the ground with it (in a 2.4L 4 banger!!), as long as he has a real locker in it (not a true trac) like a ratcheting locker. With a true-trac he kept braking R hand axles, and figured out that the true-trac puts power to the right side first before actually locking up so it would break every few hard launches. I am running a TRD LSD so we will see if I ever brake axles, but I dont plan on running slicks like my buddy did.


Next week I am going to start on the full cage and build it in so it blends with the interior and wont stand out to keep the sleeper effect. In case something ever occurs I want to be protected. The only problem with a cage is you need 5 point belts so the cage doesnt kill you! Then its a bitch to get in and out, but it is what it is...

After all I have mentioned I will start on the turbo system in the next few months once I decide on a turbo, it will be a remote type since space is limited, but there is plenty of space under the bed of the truck for 5 turbos if I wanted.

Once I get the turbo in place, functioning and tuned on a low boost program, it will be time to start getting all the engine parts to build a forged rotating assy, then I can push more than 8psi safely, I know I can probably push near 15 but some bad fuel can cause bad things fast so forging will protect me from those times.

97yoda

nice build this is the build that got me to do a lq4 swap into my 5lug tacoma. did you ever release those front brakes for this truck??? once i get some pics of my truck i will be posting them up here with a build thread. very nice work.

35DP

Im planning on starting this swap soon. So I know u used a GTO oil pan, and modified the crossmember, what modifications did u make to the oil pan? also what did u already have done to the trans tunnel?

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

Awesome conversion!

dman

iTrader: (5)

Speedfreak- Any news on your BBK? I have a '98 Taco that is in dire need of some brake upgrading.. Not to mention an LS motor but that's another story

Speed Freek

iTrader: (2)

Been a while, my progress report is I drive the truck daily and it has had no issues, so far anyway. One thing it does need is a bigger fuel tank! It only has a 14 gallon tank stock and I do 4.5 hour drives quite often, as a matter of fact I am doing one tomorrow!

I do tow a pretty heavy trailer with it so the radiator needs to be upgraded, I already have a crossflow type ready to put in but need to build a new intake for it to fit since everything is so tight up front. I have had it start to overheat slightly but I keep a close eye on it so its fine for now, but definitely needs more cooling capacity.

I havent done another run on the brake kit yet, but I am going to be setting something up here this summer and build a batch of 10 kits for anyone interested.

I havent done anything to the truck since I built it, just drive it. But really need to wake it up!

I was gonna turbo it, but I am thinking of just running a good cam for now for some extra power.
Been so busy racing off-road motorcycles almost every weekend and I dont have time or money for the truck.
But when racing season takes a break I will do some "stuff" to the truck, see if I can squeeze an extra 100hp out of it...

But racing Motorcycles in the National hare and Hound Championship Series is not cheap thing to do! But thats sorta my "thing"..

Just a little update for everybody who might be wondering, or not wondering, whatever.....

Speed Freek

iTrader: (2)

OK so progress report!!

Been racing Desert Motorcycles lately (the past year) so the truck has just been left as is pulling my trailer to the races almost every weekend!

I have put about 70K trouble free miles on the truck until the transmission (M6) finally failed, the Reverse gear bearing failed and the mainshaft was damaged as well as the 5/3, or whatever that double gear is? So I got some used parts to replace it with and have the entire drivetrain out of the truck!

So now is the time for mods, the trans is going to get some minor upgrades and the motor has quite a few miles on it (over 150K) now so its time to do some massaging to it.

I am planning on a rebuild of the bottom end just to get the big air pump to work at its best and want to get upgraded heads and cam as well as lifters, oil pump and timing chain, etc.

Now Im on the hunt for Heads and cam but honestly I am overwhelmed at the choices!!! Yeah I would love a set of AFR 215s but its just not within my budget, hoping to spend under $1500 for a pair and a cam, holy hell I have NO idea, but being a truck that tows a lot I so dont need a crazy 7500 rpm cam!

However that being said I want torque in the lower RPMs for good towing efficiency and want it to Git Sum when I hit the skinny pedal without dragging my racebikes.

Seems like the more I read about setups the less I know what I want!!!

I did end up taking 2nd pace in the 40+ B National hare and Hound Championship this year so thats kinda cool. But Im taking next season off so I can recover financially and race again full time in 2017.

I spent my AFR head money on racing, ugh..but it is what it is. Now I just need to figure out what heads and cam/lifters/pushrods I am going to need to get my truck in the 450BHP range with decent low RPM characteristics, I dont want a truck that wont start making good power till 3500rpms, lol

I guess I had better start a thread over in Gen 3 internals now!

I will snap some pics of the motor going back in as well as the parts that have been modified in order to fit this beast in the little truck for those that want to take on this upgrade in the future for themselves, its is totally worth it, truck hauls ***, or at least if felt like it used to!!? Funny how we get used to high power and it starts to feel "normal"

DavidBoren

Get a set of west coast cylinder head stage two truck heads for~$1100, and a 224 single pattern cam from texas speed on the callies core. Should be right around $1500 for both once you factor in the little stuff.

93hatch

iTrader: (9)

I'd buy a cheap older lq4 and just cam it with a set of 799 or 243s and a truck intake. More cubes and can easily make 500 crank

Speed Freek

iTrader: (2)

That might work was looking into TSP heads and WCCH stuff already. I already did the trunion upgrade so should be good to go on the rockers, but want to upgrade the lifters to something better than the LS7 versions..

I already have the LS1 motor. Just trying to upgrade what I already have to save some money saving the 100lbs up front with the aluminum block helps quite a bit.

DavidBoren

Some morel pin oiling lifters and ls2 trays with some manton pushrods. It may not be the cheapest route, but it's money well spent on parts that it's best not to skimp on.

Speed Freek

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking about going with the Morels with the tie bar so no lifter trays and some good forged pushrods as I plan to spin this motor to near 7K on occasion

I just picked up a set of LS6 243 heads on Sunday with the hollow/sodium valves so I'm gonna port those (been doing a ton of research on porting and using examples from AI and TSP) and I have done a lot of porting in the past and used to work at a dyno shop where we had a flowbench and I was doing all the porting and portmatching.

Also need to decide on some valve springs using the LS6 valves so trying to avoid extreme amounts of spring pressure over whats needed due to the lightweight valves vs RPM.

Still gotta put all those bits and pieces that used to be a T56 together still.
I got the brass fork guides, billet syncro keys, and all new clips as well as a bunch of used stuff that broke (mainshaft 3/5 cluster and reverse gear)

Once I get a minute Ill start taking a bunch of pics of everything and go from there. Also want to keep this thing really quiet somehow, my last attempt was unsuccessful.

I really want this thing to be a sleeper and with how it sounded before it was anything but!! Haha

ChrisD.

still waiting on those videos......................

Hayrider

Speed Freek,
You still alive and kicking?
I’m in the process of buying parts for an Aluminum 5.3 L33 w/ a truck cam & mis. other parts in front of a Tremec 5 speed (Definitely don’t need a double overdrive trans!) w/ the .68 overdrive, rubber and 3.73 w/ a TrueTrac. The engine & trans are going into a 07 second gen. regular cab Taco.
I really like some feedback on what you used for a clutch & flywheel as the 5.3 is not a big torque monster so I may also spin the engine past 5500. I purchased the trans from a private seller and looked up the company he purchased the trans from Silver Sport Transmission. They highly recommended a McLeod clutch then I found out they are owned by McLeod. And I haven’t seen one person recommend a McLeod clutch. The OEM Taco flywheel is just 24 lbs so I like to stay on the lighter side (No Aluminum flywheels) for a clutch and flywheel.
So do you or anyone else have a suggestion or recommendation?

Thanks in advance!

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

Try to find out the specs on the cam so you know the powerband. There is no reason to spin it beyond what the cam is designed for. An LS7 clutch/flywheel is great bang for the buck but also weighs over 55lbs and will hold 500rwhp. An aluminum flywheel saves around 17lbs and will be much more responsive. It all depends how you plan to use it. Just remember that an LS engine off idle makes more torque than just about any 4 cyl/6cyl Toyota engine ever did at peak..... so a lighter flywheel doesn't really drive that bad at all. Evan a 2002-2004 Corvette Z06 clutch/flywheel will hold 400rwhp and good bang for the buck (Rock Auto). I have aluminum flywheels in most of my LS swaps.

Hayrider

Thank You for the advice!
Well I have what Summit calls their “Stage One High Lift Truck Cam”. Supposedly the best flowing OEM cathedral intake manifold (TBSS manifold) We will build headers with two 2.5” high flow cats with mandrill system w/ 2.5” into the largest Magnaflow muffler with a single 3” tailpipe hidden out the rear. The Tacoma is the smallest and lightest 2nd Gen Tacoma’s.
So for a clutch and flywheel I finally said F*** It and purchased the Summit Twin Disc clutch kit. From what I read no one has complained about the “Drive Ability” is good and will hold 700 ft/lbs of torque. So I can even move HP down the line…

Thanks Again!
Randy