gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Tried to start for 1st time last week, & saw there was no fuel/cylinders were dry. Fuel is proper pressure to the rail. Cranks good. New battery/voltage is proper/full charge. Speartech harness! Came here to recheck things and I remembered that there was no VATS signal after discarding BCM. I then bought a VATS module, hooked it up, still no start. VATS connections have been verified-batt/grnd/pin #11 Red connector from ECU (1998). VATS idiot light is on. Again, there is no fuel smell at all from the headers. Checking for spark, I found none after plugging a spare plug into the end of a boot & holding to ground.
All grounds have been verified. Sensors plugged in, etc.
These injectors have sat since 2003. Could they be stuck shut? I would think I'd at least get a sputter or two.
I'm now wondering if this might have something to do with the "Hot in Crank & Run" issue with the key wiring. Or, maybe the crank sensor. At this point, I'm not sure what comes first. Ideas welcomed.
Oh, I do have AutoTap, but am waiting for a batt for the laptop. Thanks all!

rotor vs. piston

iTrader: (3)

Check for power at the plugs for your injectors and coils... sounds like you're just not getting power there.

babbage1109

iTrader: (11)

check your ignition module/relays/and fuses. thats what got me on my car.

bagged67camaro

iTrader: (4)

I had the + in crank prob in my 67 fbody just do 12+ jumpers to the wires to make sure there hot in crank. Good luck and just soak the injector in some fresh fuel overnight to make sure there not plugged.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

As I started reading, it sounded like you checked all the basic stuff, and the first thing that came to mind was hot when cranking. That'll cause all kinds of stuff to not work...obviously.

Either hook it up to a hot when cranking circuit, or at least do what bagged said and hot wire the harness to test the theory.

J.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

"These injectors have sat since 2003. Could they be stuck shut?' Very good possibility. I see that when the local junk yard calls for inj problem resolution...
Soaking a stuck/clogged inj in gas is about as effective as ???
A $10 noid lite will tell U if the inj circuit is firing the injs...

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

I would soak the injectors in Seafoam, instead of gas, it has worked well for me in the past. Also it's not uncommon for you to not even get a sputter when they're clogged.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

I'm gonna go for the lack of power in crank...sounds likely and seems to be a common trbl. I'll check the injs & coils for batt in run & crank & the corresponding grnds, then take the appropriate action.
I was reading all afternoon yesterday and this seems to be the most direct route.
About soaking in gas or Seafoam...do you soak both ends of the injectors?
I do have a set of 42lb injs which are new, and were bench-flowed about a year ago. In the event that all other tests prove good, would there be a problem with dropping in the 42's, if only on a trial basis?
Thanks!

duhr8m

sometimes just leaving injectors on motor with system pressurized with new fuel will get them to start poping again in a day or two.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Good point. I think I'll sit tight on this one until the crank issue is resolved.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

There hasn't been more than 15 mins available to me every day but here's the latest line...
I had someone crank the engine. There is 12.5v/key 'on' and 10.5v while cranking. This is true on both the coil packs and at the injectors.
Either I'm not getting the inj sig pulse, or there is no grnd. Question...is the inj pulse an opening and closing of grnd as directed by the ECM? How does this work? The drawing shows grnd coming from behind the driver head and supplying the grnds to inj & coils.
Anyhow, the NOID lamp does NOT light when it is applied to the inj. I tried one inj on each bank....same result. Then, the NOID lamp was compared to others in the set to make sure it wasn't defective.
Similarly, no coils will fire.
The VATS box prob isn't an issue as others say it will not prevent the engine from firing, at least for a moment.
I'm still waiting for a batt for my laptop so that AutoTap can be used to examine codes.
Any direction from all of you is welcomed and appreciated.

99MUSTANG5.3L

I know it was posted before,but, check your grounds. The coils have 2 and the injectors each have one. It's simple continuity check from inj. black to frame ground and same with the coils(black & brown if I recall correctly).

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

I'll do this as soon as I get home from work.
I'm a little confused about this...what is the process of the inj pulse? If batt and grnd are always present, what electrical property from the ECM triggers the inj to open? How does the electrical state change to 'fire' it? I'd like to know this, but it will prob be a moot point if I find a missing grnd which fixes the trbl.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

The PCM switches ground on each injector circuit.

The grounds on the back of the head are the ground path the PCM closes to...so they need to be attached properly, and the block properly grounded to the frame, or you get no injector pulse and no spark.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

OK, thanks.
This makes sense now, & I see on a schematic that these grnds input to my ECM at RED conn-pins 72 & 76...also BLUE 21 & 60. I'll check these first.
Your description of 'block properly grounded to the frame' made me go over where the ground cables are on the car. I recall that the Neg Batt Cbl is wired directly to my block. The grounds which should be at rear driver's head are all there.
(Goes out to Garage @ 12:45AM/14 deg F...checks a few things)
Alright...there is no direct ground cable between the frame & block, although there IS continuity between them all. That braided grnd which was to connect the block & frame is sitting in a box!
And, it's a good thing that the engine DIDN'T start, because the high pressure line on pwr steer box is seeping a bit/not good. The intense temp change is prob a good thing in that it's showing where things need to be tightened up.
I know it's late, or early, but I'm itching to place a cbl between the frame & engine to see what happens. You think the neighbors will enjoy my open headers at 1AM?
To be continued....thanks again!

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

As long as the neg cable is tite on the engine, the fact that the frame/body grnd is not there won't prevent the engine from firing.....

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

My feeling as well. I have perfect continuity from any point on the body & frame...to the engine...to the -BATT.
Here's where it is...still no start. No inj pulse using NOID lamp & no spark at plugs. Batt to coils & injs both @ "CRANK" & "RUN". BATT volt is 12.5 @ "ON" & 10.75 @ "CRANK". Grounds are definitely there at C#1(RED) 72 & 76...& C#2(BLUE) 21 & 60. Add-on VATS module appears to be functioning. 58lbs fuel @ rail/pump is functioning.
I've just received a battery for my laptop & can now check for codes..ie CRANK sensor. There is also an ocilloscope(sp?) available to me at work. I recall someone in a similar thread saying that his VATS mod was a few cycles off..just enough for it not to work. And then, there's the remote possibility that my ECM is NG.
CAL...I changed my sig just for you, my friend!

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Update..AutoTap came up with all of the deleted stuff ie EVAP/EGR, etc.
In addition, there was the 0335 code for CKP-crankshaft sensor. OK, so maybe the sensor or sensor ckt is the problem. I'm liking this now, as there is a definite maybe for an answer. Then, I cleared the codes just to make sure, and all of the codes came back....except for the CKP. Could be that the CKP is just out of range/at times? Because the code disappeared, I rechecked the NOID light for spark-it was still negative.
It's a bit cold out there today and my hands aren't moving as I would like. That sensor will have to wait until after work, later tonight. Cold cement & I don't mix well.
Thanks for all of your suggestions everyone!

nunan0219

iTrader: (2)

did u do ur own harness? or did u convert a 99 harness to a 98 or vice versa?

i was tired when i redid mine, and messed two pins up. one was for the ckp, and the other was for the cmp. wighout those it will not fire. mayb somethin to look at

BLNLS1/RX7

iTrader: (2)

Check MAP sensor.