sako

looking great. Nice writeup and nice pics. I will be be bookmarking this thread.
Im doing the same swap in my 69, but will be using a 5.3
Once the car is running i will save up for a LQ4/LQ9.
what headers are you thinking about with those engine plates?

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Appreciate the compliments. I think I am going with Kooks 1 7/8" stainless headers. I am unsure at this point but Kooks makes some fine headers. A little pricey but if they are as good as they seem to be it will be worth it. I am using the L92 heads and do not want any restrictions on the way out. I would like to see your ride if you have some pics. What oil pan are you going with? For the money I would love to use the LH8 (muscle car kit from GM) but with the limit of 5 quarts of fluid and the possibility of it hanging below my crossmember I may have to go with either Champ Pans or the Moroso kit. I like the Champ pan because it utilizes the oil filter at the pan the Moroso needs a remote filter kit.

Verz

iTrader: (21)

nice build up and should be a blast, love my patriot springs

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! I hope the springs work as good as they look. They should hold those big intake valves stable I hope. 2.165" and solid they are heavy. You can't beat the price of the Patriots. Going to try and snap some shots of the spacers I made tomorrow and maybe just maybe get some of the alternator relocation if I get off my sorry tail and dont over think it. Gonna order my oil pan tomorrow along with some headers maybe.

Verz

iTrader: (21)

i know a few guys running them on lt1s with 2.02 valves and more agressive cams so wouldnt worry there. ill keep an eye out on this as thats a similar motor setup id like to build.

sako

Kooks are nice. A bit pricey for me. I will be using the Edelbrock LT's with their plates. Do you have the item number for that gas tank. That sounds like a great deal. I was thinking about Rick's tank which looks nice but its about 500.
I will also be using a modded f-body pan, if not i might go with the LH8 pan. The price is nice and my car is not that low so I might get away with it. I have to drop the engine in the car first to make sure it will work.
Here is a before and after what it will look like before I can save up for some nice wheels and tires.
Post up some pics of what it looked like before.
BEFORE
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...view-130-2.jpg
AFTER
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...camaro-after.jpg

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Looked at your ride and I must say it is nice and clean. Great Job!!! I looked up the tank number and the fuel filter regulator number as well. The tank is a Spectra Premium Part# GM32BFI and the cost is $315.79 and the filter/regulator is a Wix Part# 33737. The Wix filter is off of a 2000 corvette under fuel and air category. You can go directly to the 69 camaro section to look up the tank it is also under fuel and air section. Just type in Rock Auto Parts and go to their website. The screen will pop up with a big red button, click on it and it will allow you to navigate around. They are fast and cheap. If I have time to wait a day or two I will always check with them first.

kevmac

iTrader: (1)

I just test fit my 67 ls1 last weekend w/ the moroso pan and the front is CLOSE touching the crossmember. I used edelbrock swap adapt w/energy susp mounts(red). carfull which pan you choose

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I ordered my oil pan today. I bought the Moroso #20141 and also got their pick up. I will modify my own windage tray to work with their p/up as neccesary. I was going to order the LH8 pan but there are the hold backs like ground clearance, and lack of oil. I am using a Melling HV oil pump so 5 quarts just wont cut it. I went to a local restoration parts house (Classic Muscle) and they have an LSX454 on an engine stand. I looked it over and never noticed the accessories they had on it. Well now that I am in the middle of moving the alternator, modifying the idler tensioner, and also modifying the A/C bracket I actually stopped and took notice. They are using a bracket I believe to be off of the Corvette for the alternator as well as an idler pulley off of the Corvette. I am uncertain of where they got the tensioner from but it looks like it will work out great with my GTO W/P and spacers. I went ahead and ordered the three items and will be in tomorrow. All for $200 not a bad deal. This way I know everything is rock solid and aligned. I will post some pics of the brackets mounted along with some part numbers. I am about to pull the trigger on some Dynatech headers any comments??? For $399 thats a hell of a deal for ceramic coated headers to use in my swap. I am sending off my harness and PCM tomorrow. That will be a 2-3 week turn around so a lot of work still needs to be done. Clean up under the hood, figure out the master cylinder for the clutch(thinking Wilwood and mount it flush against the firewall), weld in my DSE firewall panel to smooth out the old A/C hole, replace my brand new fuel tank and sending unit with my other ne fuel tank and sending unit, start mounting the fuel filter/regulator ans run lines to accomodate the fuel injection, and the list goes on and on!!! The joys and pains of owning such a classic!!! She will be badass soon ripping and a tearing. I have a lot of people to thank from this forum and from articles I read to get to where I am at. Not much on being adventurous when it comes to my car. Like it simple and easy.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Kevmac= Are you using the standard location to position the engine? I do have the luxury of standard, 1" forward, or 1" rearward. You say your hitting the crossmember? The top of it or are you into the steering linkage? The standard location will share a bolt with the mount and the adapter. Not syaing anyhting or meaning anything by this but you do have the plates on right side up and the mounts are correct, right?

sako

Thanks tsnow678.
I have used them before just did not know they would have that tank under the 69 since its mostly replacement parts.
I bought all my MOOG suspension parts from them and happy with the fast shipping.
I really dont know about that pump in the spectre tank. A lot of people have bad things to say about it. It might be nice to replace it with something better.

kevmac

iTrader: (1)

snow, it did not touch the steering rod, plenty of room. the front was touching the crossmember, or saddle where the engine mounts are. this is a pic on the edelbrock mount set up is. I had a pic of the install but my wife took the digital with her and its still loaded, sorry

kevmac

iTrader: (1)

the very front under the crank pully was touching. btw Who ya sending off your harness too? I need mine done.
thanx

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Kev= that is basically the same set up I have. You have 2 options: 1) make a spacer to go under the factory pedestals or a spacer to go between the Energy mounts and the adapters.
2) modify the crossmember to give more room in between the pan and crossmember.
Looks like you have the mounts with the engine set back which should have give plenty of room for the pan. Got me worried now. Did you have the trans mounted and the angle right? What engine came in you camaro from the factory? Mine is a small block car which has the tall factory perches.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Kev= sorry, forgot to mention the harness guy. He seems to know his stuff. He is converting my DBW to DBC, adding a diagnostic plug, check engine wire, removing the second bank of O2 sensors, relocating my MAP sensor wires, adding a IAC and TPS, adding a fuse block and relays, cleaning everything up, reflashing the PCM, taking out the VATS, elimating the skip shift, changing the plugs to my injectors to EV6's, the list goes on and on for a total of $502. If you do not require the mods I mentioned it gets cheaper. I went ahead and had him wire it up for dual fans, A/C fan start, fuel pump and so on and so forth. He will do what ever you need to make it a plug and play. All I will have to do is plug everything in and wire in the few wires to some hots and I will be ready to fire it up. Here is his name and number. He sells the service on Ebay so you may want to contact him on there before you call. His basic service is $199. He will let you know how much it will al cost you before you buy. He will also service you after the sell so you wont have to be worried about being stranded say something goes wrong. He includes a nice relay setup and a fuse block that is weather proof.

TODD MCCULLOUGH
POWERS OF ARKANSAS
SPRINGDALE AR
INSTALLATION MANAGER NWA

CELL 479-841-5584

kevmac

iTrader: (1)

snow, I know of him and have his add on ebay marked. Thinking around jan or early feb I'll give him a call. The install went as follows, first tried with stock pan and t56 install, I dont have the crossmember from ats yet so i couldnt get the tran in propper spot, the 67 has a longer steering rod that will clear the stock f-body pan(mine is out of 99 t/a) it was gonna be close so I orded the 20141 pan and tried it without the tranny. Plenty of room for the steering but the pan barely touched. it shouldnt take much and the edelbrock mount moved me close to the firewall so there is no more room to go back. many people have used this setup with lots of succsess so maybe I'll just play with it when i get back from xmas family stuff, hope this helps. keep posting your progress, enjoy the pics

MillsMotorvation

Great work, and great info! Im almost done also!!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Mills!
I have some pictures of my new brackets and the process to make them work. I finally finished my water pump spacers. I wanted to use the GTO water pump for two reasons. 1) its cheap (brand new with tax was $135 at Advance Auto) and 2) it looks bad ***, maybe not as bad as an electric Meizere but close LOL! What I did was milled out some 1/2" aluminum to the contour of the gaskets leaving material for the gasket to seal against. I sort of went off the ports in the water pump itself. I figure if the openings of the water pump are smaller than so should my spacers. This is a side of 2 things. A shot of the spacers mounted for the W/P and a mock up of the spacers needed for the tensioner. I used PVC pipe to cut the spacers just to get an idea of where I need to be. I have the racheting cutters for the pipe so it was fast and easy.[IMG][/IMG]

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Here is a shot for the mock up of the alternator bracket spacers. I used pvc again here.[IMG][/IMG]

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

A front shot prior to the actual spacers were made. Sort of gives you an idea of what it will look like. The alternator bolt holes do not line up. Only one bolt at this time can be put in and tightened. I have to figure out if I am going to buy a 2008 Corvette alternator or make an adapter to make the truck alt. work. That will all depend on the price of the alternator.[IMG][/IMG]