Pro-Tour Heavy Chevy

In Other words... A cheaper set of headers when you do a conversion. Like most of us I don't have a ton of money to throw at my car. Conversion headers make up a large part of my conversion budget costing at $500 and up. Nice headers, but is there something cheaper. The same Headers for a 2000 Camaro are a couple of hundred cheaper. Not looking for a $99.00 alternative. Just for a crossover that works or can be made to fit. There some "intersting" E-bay stuff as well as some mainstream items. What have you found that worked for you and in what and with what mounts too.
Me, I'm looking at Edelbrocks or Dougs for my A-Body with the appropriate mounts, but these cost 500+, so I'll have to save up for one of these or Find an Alternative.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

For my Chevelle, I used the Edelbrock swap headers.. other alternatives:

- You can cut some cost by not getting coated headers..
- You can also try picking up a used set of 4th Gen F-Body LS1 headers...for the most part they will fit your 71 Chevelle, maybe some minor tweeking might be needed.
- You can also modify some old BBC header by cutting the flange off and buying the LS1 flange to weld on and tweet any tube that might need some repositioning..

do some research and you well find out was done did before swap headers were around !

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

I think the Pacesetters would be a good choice. I bought them for my swap, haven't started it yet though. The flanges are beefy, the paint is cheap, perfect for someone who may have to beat them a little to get around the control arm ears. People are saying they work well for G-bodies, I would only think they'd work even better for A-bodies.

TTLS1GP

iTrader: (10)

Could you use Mustang headers? (IE: are the tubes in the right places?)

Pro-Tour Heavy Chevy

I was looking at Gen4 F-body stuff from pacesetters. They look the closest. I am trying to see what people have been using and with what success. Though it be nice to have a Header info page. I have seen the Gen4 stuff full length for around 200-250.

Pro-Tour Heavy Chevy

I can pick up a set of Edelbrock Universal Shorty headers #65173 or 65763 block huggers for less than $300.00 in there ti-tech coating. Hmmmm. Anyone try these?

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

Check with these folks

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/

These are not high performance, but if you are considering shorty type they definitely will work. In the past they had more in their catalog than they show on-line. They have at least 4 different sets for LS motors. I got a set from them knowing I would have to modify them. They were great to work with sending me a nice box of scrap bends for $20. Once we had them fitting right I sent the headers back and they ceramic coated them for me for $115 and had them back to me in a week.

Pat

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Run the factory manifolds for a while. The truck manifolds flow really well.

Pro-Tour Heavy Chevy

The one edelbrock shorty set has 1-3/4" primary, which is the best alternative to full length. I'm Going Mild with the 5.3L, Shooting for around 400BHP.

LS1 TJ

I've got the Sanderson 1.75" mid length on my L92 67 Nova. Still did 411 RWHP.

Rat Chevelle

I am going to run 4th Gen F body Pacsttrs on my Chevelle, I hav not startd th car but I mocked them up and thy fit quit well.
Also when I tried the truck -whn I fisrt go the engine- th flang was hitting the frame and I was using the std. adapter plate (S&P I believe it is called).
And the haders were tstd using the 1.25" setback mounts, to where the bellhousing is in the same position as SBC/BBC.
Sorry about the quality of the pictures, but I took them with my phone on low light, but hopefully thy illustrate my point.
You can also see in th last picture how the headers hang just about level with th crossmember and the truck pan is waaay lower than the headers.

wilson machine

iTrader: (5)

I bought some SS shorties off epay that I think are going to work great they are tigged inside and out and should be pretty strong. They are light enough that they shouldn't pull there selves apart from exp/cont. they were less that 200. I wanted to use manifolds but I refuse to hack my car (64 A BODY)up and the left side manifold was pointing out about 30 deg. these are tight and swept back I don't think they would work with a engine set back a 1". I think it would help if these were turned down at the collector/swept down more. I think I will cut the collector off and pu vband flange on and gain some clearance that way also. Time will tell.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Let me know if those work. I have a set of truck and GTO manifolds I'm going to try in my 72 442. I'm hoping the GTOs will work with the raised chevelle 307 frame mounts, tall/narrow motor mounts and the 1" setback plates.
The GTO manifolds seem to flow reall well.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles.../photo_03.html

Pro-Tour Heavy Chevy

Those look pretty darn good for for gen4 stuff. and they clear the floor too.
Very nice fit. Post some more pics if possible. Lookin Good

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Keep us posted on the fit of those for sure. That would be a great option to have.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

fwiw if the collectors dump right, and if the primaries dont hit anything (rails, steering, whatever), the primaries on SBFs (windsors and i think clevelands) are the same as LS primaries, so after a flange swap youd be good.

johnyrrr

iTrader: (2)

I have heard of someone with a mustang doing the Jegs u weld it headers. Anyone try those, I think they are like $300 if I remember correctly. I am thinking of doing these when I do my foxbody mustang.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

JOHNYRRR

just use your current foxbody headers, cut the flange off and weld on a LS1 Flange, some minor tweeking of the tubes and your done.

Pro-Tour Heavy Chevy

There are some good ideas here. Need to find the pacesetters without the smog fittings. Could cut them off, but don't have access to a welder, Guess I could take them to an exhaust shop though.

Jim_PA

iTrader: (9)

I think the dynatech headers are the least expensive of the swap headers I've seen. I tried F-body ls1 headers, but they weren't even close to fitting.

I went with Flowtech BBC headers for my application and cut and welded them up to LSx flanges. I think I paid around $130 for the new headers and another $100 for ball-socket collectors/reducers with 02 bungs already there and the bare LSx flanges.

Having an extra head laying on the bench was nice for checking fit with the spark plugs, too bad I didn't pay enough attention to how well the plug wires would fit I got it all worked out though with a pair of ceramic spark arms though.