STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

Has anyone run these shorty headers, offered by a KS company on Ebay?

They look like they will fit my swap, but I'm just curious of the build quality. The car "might" end up with a turbo on it, so I want something that's going to last decent. And before you say it, yes, I know, "you get what you pay for"

That being said, Has anyone used them?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-L...Q5fAccessories

Chronicle

iTrader: (7)

If you want cheap ad you "might" go turbo, you might as well buy a set of 6.0 truck manifolds. They're dirt cheap, and have been used in 1000+ hp applications.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

They look like a honey for the money.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I would buy them if they would clear my z bar.

bozzhawg

Whats the worst thing that can happen?

The ceramic coating gets chipped?
they rust?
Or flake?

Which are symptoms that patriot,Hooker,Edelbrock and Hedman all do eventually.....

ask people how many times they have paid $500-$600 for headers and they started to rust within a year? Mine did, especially if you drive this car often or live in a humid climate.... I have had Hooker,Patriot,Edlebrock, etc... they all started to rust at some point 1-2 years.....

So hey give it a shot and report back....

Bozz

FlashLCD33

iTrader: (8)

They look pretty good Jo, and for the price you can't really go wrong with stainless. That said, just re-use the GM MLS gaskets.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

None of the cast manifolds will fit my application, so I have to look elsewhere (these). They'll be going in a 78 Datsun 280z, so not alot of room.

Also, the only headers offered for my application that fit are like $500+
..............for shorty headers, that will be no good with a snail.

That's what I'm thinkin. But I don't wanna buy them, have them not fit, and then the guy won't take em back, ya know? I don't really have $200 to **** away at this point.

Well they're stainless, so they won't be rusting, or chipping or any of that nonsense. The biggest issue is I'm not sure if they'll fit, Hence my hesitation to buy a $200 wall ornament.

Yeah, well I'd have to find some gasketrons, my engine didn't come with any.


All this being said, I have a pair of truck manifolds, and two pair of F-body manifolds for sale! haha

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

Here is a little drawing that I made to further help people. I just extrapolated the measurements that were in the original Ebay ad, and applied them to the rest of the headers.

Enjoy!

bozzhawg

Ok, but just to let you know Stainless steel can and does rust, but its rate of rusting is much less than other alloys... Stainless steel is not obsolete from rust...... I know this for a fact.....

But goodluck


Bozz

oldngray

iTrader: (9)

If you need something that is short and tucks away, I have a set of Street and Perf headers , the street rod style, ad says will fit most corvettes. take a look at them on the S&P website and if they will work for you, get back to me , they were not going to work in my application, got them with a package deal, engine, harness, headers, etc

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

It is important to note that there are different grades of stainless. There is elcheapo stainless all the way up to surgical steel. The higher grades designed not to rust, do no rust. The cheaper stuff absolutely will as it lacks the necessary amount of expensive alloys (in this case nickel) to inhibit rust.

There is one more thing to worry about in Turbo applications. Being a Buick Grand National racer from back in the day, I will tell you that tubular shorties can and often do crack when used with a turbo. That is the only thing I would be concerned about. This is where the stock cast manifolds really shine.

bozzhawg

True, you are correct, but for $175-$180, I doubt that it is a high grade of alloys.....lol
Hell check out their website, not high grade at all...

Bozz

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

Valid point, and it has been taken into account. I did email and ask them the specs of the tubing (grade and thickness) but they have yet to reply.

As of now, I am left to these, the $500 shorty headers that are N/A only, or build my own. I'm leaning toward building my own at this point, likely in just mild steel, and having them coated. But time shall tell.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

I have a set of the fleabay headers I am using them on my engine run stand. The stainless tubing is the same as sliverware/pots and pans. However the flanges look like nickle plated steel so they may rust. Seller is from KC, Ks. Not a bad deal for the price. Recommended IF they fit your application. If not they are cheap enough to hack up and have the tubes professionally re-welded.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

Thanks for your input Anthony. I'm not scared to hack them up, BUT, if i'm gonna do it, I'd rather have it my way from the start. Do you know if they have a return policy? Their customer service has yet to impress me (still no answer phone or email). If they fit my application, I think there would be a good market for their product in the S30 world, so IMO, it would be a good business decision to at least let me buy and TRY them, If i screw em up, I'll buy em, but this no reply BS is no way to do business.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Come over and borrow them. If they fit, keep them and just buy me another set.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

I use to work in a nuc plant. All grades of steel are susceptible to rust, especially when there is heat and salt invovled. Headers get a lot hotter than many of the critical components in a nuc plant too.

Having said that I have no idea whether cheap SS headers will rust out faster than expensive ones.

To the OP, when you go turbo, do you plan on flipping the headers over or just plumbing in the turbos from underneath? Having a 240 it is hard for me to see how you will get one set of manifolds to suit both needs. Unfortunately I can't see your pics from work.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

HMMMM that's tempting. I'm PM'ing you.

The headers will be run in the down and forward position the entire time. That way when I want a turbo, I won't have to do much but fab up a crossover, and all that jazz.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

as an update:

I ended up borrowing these from a friend, locally, and here is the result



This is the only position that they'll fit. The passenger side is quite close to the strut tower (1/4"), so I'm concerned that when the engine revs, its gonna rock and tap the tower. Plus, that's an immense amount of heat right next to my paint.

Options:
1) Make them work (fab, hack, cuss, scream, whatever is needed)
-$200 + fab of exhaust
2) Buy a set of mandrel bends in mild steel, MIG them together, and have a set that fits nice, but will need coated
-$100 +exhaust + coating
3) Same as #2, but in 304 SS, and I'd have to pay to have them TIG'd or I'd just MIG them.
-$200 + exhaust
4) Abandon hope, and buy the $500 coated set that is offered, and fits (with some mods)
-$500 coated + exhaust

bozzhawg

I cannot see well, but do you have plenty of clearance for the spark plug wires? or were you going to relocate the coil packs?

Do you have some side shots of the passenger and drivers side?

Bozz