Seagram's 72

iTrader: (2)

I have a 72' Chevelle, LQ4 with the Edelbrock mounts.

Last year I ran the GM swap pan and it hung pretty lower, under observation their was road rash on the pan so I decided to swap it for something else this winter, CTS-V Pan.

After swapping it in it contacts the from on the very edges when the motor is bolted in




I figure my options are:

1) swap back in the GM swap pan, don't want that lower hanger though.

2) Grind the frame in those two spots to clear the pan.

3) slot the frame mounts to move the engine back 1/4". The pan contacts the frame on a downward sloping face so if I moved the engine back back 1/4" it give the pan 1/4" space from the contact point. My cross member is fine, but I don't know how much I have to give up on the driveshaft for the move.

4) Aftermarket pan. Great, but extra $$$ I don't want to spend and I could be in the same situation I am in.

Any suggestions?

Seagram's 72

iTrader: (2)

5) add spacers (washers) under frame mounts to lift engine. I am worried I will have to add alot to make a difference.

Seagram's 72

iTrader: (2)

Mine is powdercoated too and the Mast is out of the budget. I may modify the frame mounts to move those back on the frame vs. the modifythe frame forward on the mounts. I have a welder so i could patch up the frame mounts iff need be.

I think with a slight lift and set back my problem could be solved.

John McGraw

Here is how I did mine.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...3/IMG_0378.jpg

I found that it was necessary to do this on my car to ever be able to pull the engine with the trans attached without dicking up the firewall. After I ground the welds down and painted the frame, you can't even tell it was modified.


Regards, John McGraw

Seagram's 72

iTrader: (2)

Nice work, I am going to try a combination of lifting the engine and moving it back about 1/4" both ways, this should leave enough space.

The firewall clearance does suck...

I will have to modify my heater box (a/c style) to get it in while the motor is in. I had some rubbing on it last year because the motor is about 1.5" from the firewall.

John McGraw

Yep, I welded up my firewall smooth and don't even have a heater core sticking out of it. I used a Vintage Air unit so clearance would not be an issue. My first location was so far back that the bellhousing bolts would not have been able to be removed with the engine in the car. I decided to move the engine back forward an inch to accommodate trans removal. It was a balancing act between firewall clearance and oil pan clearance.

Regards, John McGraw

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I used some Tall and Narrow engine mounts, narrowed my frame mount to match. But I have Early BRP style mounts, which means I really move the frame mount back to where everything fit and cleared. Some a combination of raising the engine a bit up and back solved my CTS-V pan problem.

Seagram's 72

iTrader: (2)

Slotted the frame mounts and moved the engine back ~1/4", pan now almost has an OE fit. Tomorrow/ Wednesday I need to see if this affected my driveshaft at all.