67 Chevelle/6.0L - building mounts/pan/headers
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67 Chevelle/6.0L - building mounts/pan/headers
Following in the path many have done here, swapping an LS motor into an early GM A-body. Have seen a lot of great swaps in this forum and nice work. I am going to do things just a little differently, since I like to make stuff .
The 64-67 Chevelle (and other GM A-bodys) are first generation cars and are quite different from the 68-72 models. Frames, steering parts, engine mounts etc are all different. I have noticed subtle chassis differences even in the 64-65 cars VS the 66-67's. I mention this as I often see parts advertised to fit 64-72 chevelles as a group . That makes me wary.
For the last few months I have been accumulating the parts for the swap, beginning with the headers.
But first, Out must come the Trusty, crusty, a little leaky and squeaky Gen 1 smallblock :
The 64-67 Chevelle (and other GM A-bodys) are first generation cars and are quite different from the 68-72 models. Frames, steering parts, engine mounts etc are all different. I have noticed subtle chassis differences even in the 64-65 cars VS the 66-67's. I mention this as I often see parts advertised to fit 64-72 chevelles as a group . That makes me wary.
For the last few months I have been accumulating the parts for the swap, beginning with the headers.
But first, Out must come the Trusty, crusty, a little leaky and squeaky Gen 1 smallblock :
Last edited by gjestico; 02-25-2011 at 07:50 PM. Reason: pic
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headers :
After reading many posts about header fit, A few months back I decide to get Edelbrock swap headers for this job. Then I read some more posts about poor ground clearance with the Eddys....so I decide to get a set of the Doug's as well. The Dougs are supposed to have more ground clearance. I figure I can return whichever brand I dont use.
One thing to note is that there are 2 different part numbers for the Edelebrocks, one for 64-67 chevelles and another for 68-72. The Doug's are said to fit all 64-72's.
Edelbrocks 65063 VS Dougs D3338:
Easy to see the relative difference in ground clearance between the two. As long as the Doug's will bolt up...... More on this later.
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One thing to note is that there are 2 different part numbers for the Edelebrocks, one for 64-67 chevelles and another for 68-72. The Doug's are said to fit all 64-72's.
Edelbrocks 65063 VS Dougs D3338:
Easy to see the relative difference in ground clearance between the two. As long as the Doug's will bolt up...... More on this later.
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Last edited by gjestico; 02-25-2011 at 07:53 PM. Reason: part #
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Engine and mounts.
The engine is an '02 6.0L LQ4. I plan to install a mild cam and run it with a carburetor (for now...).
I chose to make my own frame mounts which connect to stock 98-02 LS1 Camaro engine mounts. This will be cleaner than the usual "adapter plate" style mount and will give me more control over engine location.
Transmission is a previous retrofitted 700r4. I had done a lot of work to maintain a good driveline angle in that swap and am not willing to compromise it with the new engine. Since the car is slightly lowered the driveshaft angle becomes even more crucial. Goal is to maintain as close as possible the old crankshaft/trans centerline and keep the bellhousing face as near as possible to the existing fore-aft location.
Frame mounts test fit. They worked out well and look like they were always meant to be there :
I chose to make my own frame mounts which connect to stock 98-02 LS1 Camaro engine mounts. This will be cleaner than the usual "adapter plate" style mount and will give me more control over engine location.
Transmission is a previous retrofitted 700r4. I had done a lot of work to maintain a good driveline angle in that swap and am not willing to compromise it with the new engine. Since the car is slightly lowered the driveshaft angle becomes even more crucial. Goal is to maintain as close as possible the old crankshaft/trans centerline and keep the bellhousing face as near as possible to the existing fore-aft location.
Frame mounts test fit. They worked out well and look like they were always meant to be there :
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Engine in !
Engine test fit and sitting on mounts. I was able to get the crank centerline elevation exactly where I wanted it. No Oil pan at this point ! that comes later....
#6
Nice work on those mount very clean "factory" looking. And I hope if you decide to use the Dougs you can return the eddys cause I heard they were on clearance cause they aren't gonna carry them anymore. Good luck.
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The biggest problem I have had so far with mine is steering to pan clearance.I used a champ pan which fit the best so far. I also had to cut the floor pan for my 4l80e which was well worth it. I used camaro headers that I cut up and modified to fit. Your mounts look good. Good luck on your build.
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Oil Pan
Now that Ive got the engine where I want it to be its time to make the Oil pan work.
I knew from my measurements that I could make the F-body pan work with some mods and got to work on cutting it to fit.
The front of the sump is moved back about 1" and the area in front raised a bit.
I also found I needed to make an angled relief in the pan near the front on each side to allow for steering linkage clearance at full lock.
This is one important area where the 64-67 cars are different than the 68-later . The earlier center link (holds the inner tie rod end studs) is 1" narrower stud to stud than the later unit. This is a big difference in the possible fit of the aftermarket pans available.
I cut the pan out and bent up some sheet aluminum to fit and welded it in.
Tried to equate a rounded contour to it thus the 'dodahecagigahedron' look to it.
I knew from my measurements that I could make the F-body pan work with some mods and got to work on cutting it to fit.
The front of the sump is moved back about 1" and the area in front raised a bit.
I also found I needed to make an angled relief in the pan near the front on each side to allow for steering linkage clearance at full lock.
This is one important area where the 64-67 cars are different than the 68-later . The earlier center link (holds the inner tie rod end studs) is 1" narrower stud to stud than the later unit. This is a big difference in the possible fit of the aftermarket pans available.
I cut the pan out and bent up some sheet aluminum to fit and welded it in.
Tried to equate a rounded contour to it thus the 'dodahecagigahedron' look to it.
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Your pan looks really good. You did your homework on the steering. I found out the hard way. anyway good luck. this will be the 3rd summer of driving mine with the ls engine and I really like it on longer trips even though it is pretty slow at the track.
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Header test fit
Thanks for the compliments guys. I happen to have some skills and good equipment that allows me to do nice job.
So on to the test fit of the headers. First up are the Dougs D3338.
I was able to get the passnger side in place but could not get the rearmost bolt in on the head. The collector hits the floorpan. The header just clears the frame ; if only the collector was a bit lower this side might work. I am reluctant to beat on the floorpan to make it fit. Plus (or minus ?) the collector exit points right into the trans crossmember.
So on to the test fit of the headers. First up are the Dougs D3338.
I was able to get the passnger side in place but could not get the rearmost bolt in on the head. The collector hits the floorpan. The header just clears the frame ; if only the collector was a bit lower this side might work. I am reluctant to beat on the floorpan to make it fit. Plus (or minus ?) the collector exit points right into the trans crossmember.
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CL2000 : my motor mount setup puts the bellhousing mount face pretty dang close to where the original SBC sat. The shorter LSX engine design puts the head about 1 1/4 closer to the firewall. You can see the head-Fwall gap in the pics above.
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I'm looking for headers to fit my 72, seems like every header has its ups and downs...Apparently edelbrock isnt making their anymore so the pickings are getting slim, I'm leaning towards the Hookers but idk!
Build is looking great btw
Build is looking great btw
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dodahecagigahedron - most intense geometric shape ive had to read on tech
loving the use of tile as a straightline in pics
im pretty sure im gonna do fbody mounts now too; that is clean.
loving the use of tile as a straightline in pics
im pretty sure im gonna do fbody mounts now too; that is clean.
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Edelbrock headers
Weeell I tried the edelbrock headers and was able to get the R side in place. The Eddys are a more complex design and needed some snaking to get in place. Once bolted up they clear everything but are real close on the starter.
Worse issue, as feared, is they hang low and compromise ground clearance.
They would work but its a little un-cool to drag your headers on the speedbump into the local cruise-in.
Worse issue, as feared, is they hang low and compromise ground clearance.
They would work but its a little un-cool to drag your headers on the speedbump into the local cruise-in.