Aceshigh

There's new GM parts #'s for those 2 sides, I got them off GM Parts Giant for like $8 each iirc.
Gary might have the right part #'s tho.

Ebay they were asking $30 each for USED one's.
Unfortunately CompNine (GM Schematics and part #'s database) was shut down recently so getting the part #'s the way I used to is gone.
You can get them at any Ace Hardware or any other hardware store. Just make sure they're the higher grade 10.9 iirc.

Use this for reference, page 1-6
http://www.enginepartsplus.com/pdf/P...%20Catalog.pdf

Last thread here
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-buy-them.html

If you don't have Ace, check for Sears Hardware, or Fastenal worst case scenario.
You can definitely get them local though.....
Don't go to Home Depot, Lowes, or Menards, they rape you on hardware with 2x the price.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Called the dealership about the missing Trans to Bellhousing bolts; they wanted over $8/bolt! Ouch! So bought a set of these from McMaster Carr:
1 98093A634 Nonmarring Class 10.9 Flange Head Cap Screw, Steel, M10 Size, 40MM Length, 1.5MM Pitch, packs of 25

These should more than suffice. Base price of $11.23 (but shipping tax not included). Wasn't pleased with the ones I bought at fastenal; the head was too big (17mm) and I think they're made in China. W/the flange head I'm expecting more like the 15mm stock. These from McMaster Carr are 10.9, which I'm told is like grade 8 for SAE. Should be fine.

BTW, now that I have the dash out, I have easy access to the silly factory speaker that was long ago cut out. Any ideas how I should replace it? I mean, I have the two in the door, and two in the back, but w/top down can't really hear the speaker in the back, so another in front would give some add'l sound. But since the others are left or right, how would I handle a center? Gotta look and see if anybody even makes this oddball skinny speaker size again.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

One of the weekend hotrod shows put 2 small, ~3" speakers in the position of the center oval speaker. Hardly ideal for stereo, but no cutting of the dash.
I put a couple flush mount tweeters at each corner of the dash pad. Sounds good, but not a good solution if you dont want to cut your dash.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, got the tranny in today. Bought the small HF tranny jack and it was fine for the job. Was worried about floor pan clearance; I'd had the LT1 T56 in previously, but you never know. Would've been smart to cut off the bosses that weren't needed before putting it in, but the air saw took care of it. Using the BRP mounting kit and I'm -5 deg on tailshaft angle. I think this is on the hairy edge of ok? I'll be running adjustable UCA's on the rear so I can match. Glad to get this in.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

Is it possible to post the pics in the thread? The attached thumbnail method isn't very work-computer friendly. What kind of air saw are you using, do you think it would cut through something as thick as the frame?

71Fakes

iTrader: (2)

Goldhawg - I am just about to this point in my swap, so am very interested in your pictures also!

Congratulations on getting it in there!

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Also connected my tick master to the adapter I fabbed up last year (see pic earlier in thread for comparison to tick's adapter) to work on my cutlass and hooked up my clutch pedal. Angle seems ok.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Garys68--do you know what this particular relay is? The classic olds forum thought it was a blower motor relay (in which case I don't need it when I wire my new classic ac system). Does this sound right to you? If it can come out I think I'll mount the clutch slave fill reservoir where it sits.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Good guess, if you have a factory air car.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Well, took a break from wiring the car today and set the truck intake. Its a definite no-go. I could trim the studs off but the throttle body is above the two fenders when I look across it. So I guess I have to go LS3 intake. I have the BRP mounting kit and it sits up higher than others I think. I hope I can use my truck throttle body w/the LS3, yes? Since I already had it ported....

oldgoat69

If you nip the studs off I bet the hood will just clear. Ran into the same issue with the Magnacharger. The TB just clipped the hood bracing, notched the bracing in a few spots.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

If you were able to see level across the fenders (not from the pic), the TB clearly sticks above the fenders, as well as the sensor that sits on top. I'm unwilling to cut into the fiberglass ram air hood, even if it might work.

BTW, is an L76 intake identical to an LS3 intake?

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Bought a used LS3 intake today off a local guy that bought a supercharger. The valley cover is slightly different; has a vacuum port or something that the truck valley cover doesn't have, but there is a similar port off the head (see pic). Is there any reason for me to swap to the LS3 valley cover?

Thx!

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Hmmm...maybe I need to pull the vacuum port (or whatever it is, plz chime in) since it looks like the truck one will interfere with the manifold.

Thoughts from those that have done this?

EDIT: This link is very helpful; still don't know whether I should use my L96 valley cover or go w/the LS3...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-manifold.html

FatfreeGTO

I didn't switch the valley cover in mine when I did it. Just connect your drivers side valve cover to the port on the passenger side of the intake manifold right after the throttle body (you can see it in your pic above) The passenger side valve cover needs to get tied into your intake tube after your MAF sensor.

I'm not sure what you are seeing that is interfering but that steam vent crossover tube between the cyl heads can be changed to the LS3 version to clean things up. It will move the hose attachment to the drivers side and will be horizontal instead of vertical.

Also put a cap on the EGR port on the drivers side of the intake manifold right after the throttle body.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Thx. Dooh...a steam vent. Hadn't really studied the whole setup yet since I put it on a couple of nights ago. Now that you guided me to the valve covers, if I stick with the LY6 valley cover, can I not just use a short connection from the passenger valve cover to the nipple off the manifold per the pic below, and then hook up the connection on the drivers valve cover with a short hose to the nipple coming off the rear of the manifold per the pic? Is there a reason you suggested a longer run for each of those hoses?
Thx for tip to plug off EGR, and I'll think about the steam vent relocation.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

On the PCV, I assume you've still got the PCV valve in the drivers side valve cover. It's directional. The drivers side valve cover PCV hookup is supposed to go to the passenger side of the intake manifold right after the throttle body, your pointer finger is on it.

The passenger side valve cover tube is supposed to get attached to your intake tube between MAF and throttle body. There may be a port on top of the TB that's routed in front of the TB blade. That way metered air enters the block and is sucked into the intake.

FatfreeGTO

The one on the rear of the manifold is for your brake booster to get vacuum to operate.

The hoses just have to run that way, I know it seems like a lot of hose but that is just how it was designed.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

No PCV; does it go at the rear of the drivers valve cover? Guess I'll just plug the rear manifold port--I'm running hydraboost now.

Are there stock hoses that have prebends to connect to the valve covers to these vacuum connections?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

That statement confuses me. What are you trying to do?