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Sorry for the lack/lapse of updating. Our landlord is forcing us out, because the housing market here is insane now from a sellers point of view, and he wants to put the house he is renting us up for sale. So for the last couple months I've been house hunting and putting my time into finding a home to buy, so the rx8 project is temporarily put on hold till i find a place to move. Once I'm moved in, however progress will come quick, because i have everything i need to finish!! Just wanted to throw a post on here to update people who are actually following the build. Don't loose faith the finished product is soon to come, and will be worth it!!
Nice build I'm thinking of doing the rx8 or is300 swap.the only thing I'm worried about the rx8 is the can bus system.i have to pass emmisions in AZ and the check engine light has to work.looking forward to more post
I just bought a RX-8 with no motor for $1500.. been checking out your post for some time, one the reasons I wanted to start this project... Anyhow was wondering where you got those motor mount pads. did you make them yourself or find them someplace. if you made them yourself would you be willing to share a copy of the pattern that you used?
I just bought a RX-8 with no motor for $1500.. been checking out your post for some time, one the reasons I wanted to start this project... Anyhow was wondering where you got those motor mount pads. did you make them yourself or find them someplace. if you made them yourself would you be willing to share a copy of the pattern that you used?
I'm putty sure he got those from Hinson, I'm doing this swap also and Hinson is supposed to email me with their price,but if they don't I think they could be easily made.
After a waaaaay to long break, moving, and getting married I am finally to a point where i can get back to the garage! Update incoming tomorrow...plan is to finally get this bad boy finished up by the end of the year!
Finally got settled in the new house, and got the new garage setup! After a way to long break I'm super excited to get back working on this project.
Quick shots of the new setup!
As for the project. I still have a lot of work to-do, and due to the break i had from the project I'm currently back in "research mode" before i dive back in.
Below is the list I have compiled as for what still needs to be done, and for now the order I plan to tackle it.
1) Pull motor/trans back out, and either relocate or delete ABS. Leaning towards relocating though.
2) While motor is out, and after ABS situation is complete paint the engine bay.
3) Figure out if i can by myself any clearance by switching from the current c5 engine mounts to the old stock mounts.
Here is the current setup
I was hoping the stock mount was a little lower profile, but they look to almost be identical
4) While motor/trans is out, install B&M short throw shifter
5) Install fuel pump, fuel lines, and fuel filter/regulator
6) Install clutch pedal, master cylinder, gas pedal and throttle linkage
7) re-fab my passenger side header reducer (currently it hits the starter, and also hits the frame)
8) Drop motor and trans back in (hopefully for the last time) and start to get rolling on all the wiring.
9) once wiring is complete, engine is running...then fab up the remaining pipe for my exhaust.
Again i have a lot of work ahead of me, but i cannot wait to get rolling again. I want to see this thing running so bad!
I wanted to just cut, bend, and flare the existing ABS hard lines out of the way by relocating the ABS module. However, the more I looked into it the more I realized it might be better to just replace the hard lines with braided stainless steel lines since the flexibility makes it a breeze to route it how you please.
From what I could find through research the ABS line fittings are 10mm.
The feeds from the master cylinder seem to be the same.
Also to clarify this is the main reason I am leaning towards replacing the hardlines (way more expensive..which sucks)...
There are several places like above where the brake lines are just to close for my own comfort. Even though ill wrap my headers, it still would just bother me seeing that day after day.
From what I have gathered Russell Performance sells "powerflex" stainless steel brake line (25-100 foot), the flare nuts, and the 10mm fittings I would need. Currently im working on getting the pricing for what it would cost, but if anyone else is thinking about doing the same thing...I would expect to spend around 250 to get the lines, nuts, and fittings.
Next update will hopefully have more "good"..hoping to get alot done this weekend while I wait for brake line parts to arrive.
Check out where mine is. It's moved closer in to the shock tower and has enough clearance. I even had 1 7/8" LTs and never had an issue. I made all new hardliners to and from the ABS module. Wasn't hard or expensive. Welcome back to the money pit. I've already built, driven, blown up, rebuilt and sold mine.
It looks good man! I was thinking about moving my abs module there, but when I looked at it more I think I might relocate it to the other side. since there is just a big empty spot where the window wash tank was. Need to see what looks best once I get everything out and paint.
^^Thanks thats a good thought!....and man i thought that picture you posted looked familiar the more i saw it...do you have a build thread on no-rotors? LSXREX? If so i followed it religiously when it was current lol. From what i understood about how you got the stock gauges working you just extended the ls1 harness and provided the RX8 PCM with inputs from oil pressure, coolant temp, oil level, and CKP?
I was hoping to try and talk with you about how you got all the stock gauges happy...just like you im in texas as well so i cant be driving around with the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and i haven't found anything through my research that really helps explains what needs to happen to not throw all the dash lights. Any additional info you have on the wiring setup would be very very much appreciated.
02-06-2015, 03:11 PM
