First Gen Camaro LS/4l80e Swap - a few pointers.
04-24-2011, 09:05 PM
#1
First Gen Camaro LS/4l80e Swap - a few pointers. So I'm putting in a 2006 LQ4 in a 68 camaro. I have also a 2001 4l80e.
A couple of notes:
Dynatech headers look great. They clear the power steering box. Just make sure you install them PRIOR to putting the engine in the compartment, or get ready to remove the box. If you get Dynatechs (which I totally recommend), make sure you order at least TWO months before you will install them. Takes a long time to get them no matter what jegs "ships in" says. The wait is totally worth it and in the mean time you can perfect your build. They hang maybe 1-2" below the frame.
I used carshop style adjustable mount plates from eBay. I highly suggest you get adjustable plates that allow for 1" forward, standard, and 1" back. They work well, except DO NOT overtighten the block bolts. You will strip the block.
I used the autoworks/champs pan. Beautiful piece. Totally worth it. However, my linkage hit the pan in 1" forward and standard position. (not sure if standard position really would be a problem, my pittman arm still needs to be pressed on another 1/2" - still waiting for impact wrench. I suspect if I had it pressend all the way on standard position also works).
I got my xmember from PATC. $200. If you get the adjustable plates it seems only to work with the stock 4l80e tranny mount if if you adjust the plates to 1" rear. Otherwise you have to get an adjustable tranny mount from them, which I found to be a piece of ****. I really recommend the 1" rear position for this engine/trans combo. If you don't hit the firewall, do it for sure.
Do yourself a favor and get part no. 2142 motor mounts. They are like two bucks online and for the tall and narrow (327) mounts mine worked perfectly. If your mount holes do not line up, your problem can be solved by changing mounts. Odds are you have the tall/narrow stands and tall/narrow mounts. By having the 2142 mounts on hand, you run less risk of banging your head against the garage floor out of frustration. If you have to force a bold too much in the mount, you have the wrong mount.
You can get -AN fittings for teflon hose connectors for the 4l80e - I forgot where I got mine but I highly recommend this. However you need to have 90* fittings. Also, get a trans cooler. They are like $20.
Building your own harness is a PITA. If you can get someone to mod it for $3-400 definitely do it.
Brendan at lt1swap.com will reporgram your box for $75. He'll even put some custom stuff there. We'll see how it works once I fire this thing up.
That's all for now.
A couple of notes:
Dynatech headers look great. They clear the power steering box. Just make sure you install them PRIOR to putting the engine in the compartment, or get ready to remove the box. If you get Dynatechs (which I totally recommend), make sure you order at least TWO months before you will install them. Takes a long time to get them no matter what jegs "ships in" says. The wait is totally worth it and in the mean time you can perfect your build. They hang maybe 1-2" below the frame.
I used carshop style adjustable mount plates from eBay. I highly suggest you get adjustable plates that allow for 1" forward, standard, and 1" back. They work well, except DO NOT overtighten the block bolts. You will strip the block.
I used the autoworks/champs pan. Beautiful piece. Totally worth it. However, my linkage hit the pan in 1" forward and standard position. (not sure if standard position really would be a problem, my pittman arm still needs to be pressed on another 1/2" - still waiting for impact wrench. I suspect if I had it pressend all the way on standard position also works).
I got my xmember from PATC. $200. If you get the adjustable plates it seems only to work with the stock 4l80e tranny mount if if you adjust the plates to 1" rear. Otherwise you have to get an adjustable tranny mount from them, which I found to be a piece of ****. I really recommend the 1" rear position for this engine/trans combo. If you don't hit the firewall, do it for sure.
Do yourself a favor and get part no. 2142 motor mounts. They are like two bucks online and for the tall and narrow (327) mounts mine worked perfectly. If your mount holes do not line up, your problem can be solved by changing mounts. Odds are you have the tall/narrow stands and tall/narrow mounts. By having the 2142 mounts on hand, you run less risk of banging your head against the garage floor out of frustration. If you have to force a bold too much in the mount, you have the wrong mount.
You can get -AN fittings for teflon hose connectors for the 4l80e - I forgot where I got mine but I highly recommend this. However you need to have 90* fittings. Also, get a trans cooler. They are like $20.
Building your own harness is a PITA. If you can get someone to mod it for $3-400 definitely do it.
Brendan at lt1swap.com will reporgram your box for $75. He'll even put some custom stuff there. We'll see how it works once I fire this thing up.
That's all for now.
04-25-2011, 03:16 PM
#2
Sounds alot like my build-same pan, headers, tranny, x-member. My headers hang quite a bit lower than yours. I think tall and narrow mounts are for 350 cars while short and wide are 307,327. Also I think that tall and narrow mounts work with short and narrow stands, while short and wide mounts work with tall and wide stands. I went through a little pain figuring this out. What kind of mount is that part number you are referring too?
