LS1/240sx. Already running, fuel issue & clutch issue
06-07-2011, 01:47 PM
#1
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LS1/240sx. Already running, fuel issue & clutch issue I've had this driving for 6-7months now and been driving it EVERYWHERE!!! It's so hard to drive my bone stock Civic now hahaha. I only have 2 issues with it so far:
1. The clutch pedal woes. If I still try to shift fast at high rpms, the slave won't disengage fast enough, then I end up getting locked out of all gears until I pump the pedal a couple times, then good to go. Clutch pedal also feels like crap when this happens, usually super stiff and on the floor or something, until I pump it a few times and it goes away. Would it help if I adjusted the pedal on the master cyl. rod, so that when I press the clutch, it opens (pulls out) all the way? Or the other way? Also, any general ideas to this problem? I've read the in depth reads on the clutch pedal woes, but is there not really a good fix?
2. 16gal. fuel cell and Aeromotive Platinum series fuel pump. On hot hot days, my fuel pump overheats, and obviously car shuts off. I'm trying to figure out if it's creating a suction of some kind from the fuel cell? Or perhaps vapor lock? I'm not sure if the pump getting hot is the initial problem, or a side effect. I have the 6AN line going over top of the header collector at one point. It has the fire sleeve on it, but I'm wondering if on those hotter days it just heats the fuel line up too much? All wiring is correct. I mean, it runs GREAT on days that are sub-90* days. I'm confused on this one lol.
1. The clutch pedal woes. If I still try to shift fast at high rpms, the slave won't disengage fast enough, then I end up getting locked out of all gears until I pump the pedal a couple times, then good to go. Clutch pedal also feels like crap when this happens, usually super stiff and on the floor or something, until I pump it a few times and it goes away. Would it help if I adjusted the pedal on the master cyl. rod, so that when I press the clutch, it opens (pulls out) all the way? Or the other way? Also, any general ideas to this problem? I've read the in depth reads on the clutch pedal woes, but is there not really a good fix?
2. 16gal. fuel cell and Aeromotive Platinum series fuel pump. On hot hot days, my fuel pump overheats, and obviously car shuts off. I'm trying to figure out if it's creating a suction of some kind from the fuel cell? Or perhaps vapor lock? I'm not sure if the pump getting hot is the initial problem, or a side effect. I have the 6AN line going over top of the header collector at one point. It has the fire sleeve on it, but I'm wondering if on those hotter days it just heats the fuel line up too much? All wiring is correct. I mean, it runs GREAT on days that are sub-90* days. I'm confused on this one lol.
06-07-2011, 03:29 PM
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What master cylinder?
What type of fluid?
Is the line running close to the header and getting hot?
I've never had any issue with mine. Wilwood 3/4. Wilwood 570 degree fluid. Pedal adjusted to engage about an inch and a half from the top.
Where is your pump mounted? Outside the car in the airflow? How is it mounted with respect to the fuel tank level? Are you running a pre-pump filter? Is your fuel tank properly vented?
What type of fluid?
Is the line running close to the header and getting hot?
I've never had any issue with mine. Wilwood 3/4. Wilwood 570 degree fluid. Pedal adjusted to engage about an inch and a half from the top.
Where is your pump mounted? Outside the car in the airflow? How is it mounted with respect to the fuel tank level? Are you running a pre-pump filter? Is your fuel tank properly vented?
06-07-2011, 08:37 PM
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Rigid, I think my fluid is partly to blame. Only using DOT4 right now. Where did you get the 570 degree fluid from?! Is that a 570* wet boiling point? Synthetic or Silicone based?
- Wilwood 3/4" master.
- Clutch line goes under the brake booster to the top of the trans tunnel, then down the trans tunnel. I have it wrapped with the fire sleeve from master to trans tunnel. Wondering if I should do the whole thing? My clutch also engages about 1" - 1 1/2" from the top (my adjustment nut on the rod is about half way, so I can go either way if needed).
- I have a few bottles of the Silicone based brake fluid (511* wet boiling point), but I'm hesitant to run it since I'm not sure of the best way to get the existing stuff all out. If you mix both, I know it's bad and can turn to a gel-like substance.
Fuel pump is mounted under the car, about level with the outlet from the sumped cell. If you were to take the original fuel pump access cover off, you could almost see it, but it's mounted on the frame rail closer to the rear of the car. Running an -8AN Russell pre-pump filter (small one). Fuel tank has a -6AN rollover vent, with hard line venting to outside (comes off the cell, does 3 loops, then vents straight down and outside of the car).
Btw, I got my clutch master adapter plate from you Rigid! Thanks again! Worked great!
- Wilwood 3/4" master.
- Clutch line goes under the brake booster to the top of the trans tunnel, then down the trans tunnel. I have it wrapped with the fire sleeve from master to trans tunnel. Wondering if I should do the whole thing? My clutch also engages about 1" - 1 1/2" from the top (my adjustment nut on the rod is about half way, so I can go either way if needed).
- I have a few bottles of the Silicone based brake fluid (511* wet boiling point), but I'm hesitant to run it since I'm not sure of the best way to get the existing stuff all out. If you mix both, I know it's bad and can turn to a gel-like substance.
Fuel pump is mounted under the car, about level with the outlet from the sumped cell. If you were to take the original fuel pump access cover off, you could almost see it, but it's mounted on the frame rail closer to the rear of the car. Running an -8AN Russell pre-pump filter (small one). Fuel tank has a -6AN rollover vent, with hard line venting to outside (comes off the cell, does 3 loops, then vents straight down and outside of the car).
Btw, I got my clutch master adapter plate from you Rigid! Thanks again! Worked great!
Last edited by TurboGoKart; 06-07-2011 at 08:46 PM.
06-08-2011, 03:35 PM
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I can't remember where I got the fluid. Probably summit. I got it when I went to Wilwood calipers on the front.
I know aeromotive suggests running a very large size 100 micron filter before the pump. They have a big write up on their site somewhere. If you run a real small filter or one with a small micron rating prepump the pump will really be straining trying to suck through it. I did that on my initial fuel cell setup and the pump was super loud.
I know aeromotive suggests running a very large size 100 micron filter before the pump. They have a big write up on their site somewhere. If you run a real small filter or one with a small micron rating prepump the pump will really be straining trying to suck through it. I did that on my initial fuel cell setup and the pump was super loud.
06-08-2011, 04:35 PM
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Good to know. Thanks. Apparently I'm retarded cause I thought the bigger number (100micron) was finer than a, say, 35micron filter.
I ordered 6 bottles of the Wilwood 570 off eGay for $32. Not too shabby. Gonna order some more fire sleeve, enough to wrap the entire clutch line, and re-route it over top of the booster, then down the trans tunnel. This winter I will ceramic coat the headers, so that will help a bunch. Then I'll just have the fuel pump issue to work out. I'll definitely look into the 100 micron filter. Thanks!
I ordered 6 bottles of the Wilwood 570 off eGay for $32. Not too shabby. Gonna order some more fire sleeve, enough to wrap the entire clutch line, and re-route it over top of the booster, then down the trans tunnel. This winter I will ceramic coat the headers, so that will help a bunch. Then I'll just have the fuel pump issue to work out. I'll definitely look into the 100 micron filter. Thanks!
06-09-2011, 06:41 PM
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try tightening the 14mm pedal adjustment screw a bit and see if that helps your clutch problem sometimes the pedal in 240's will disengage to much causing an air pocket to form in the master cylinder tighten it up so the pedal doesn't come all the way back. fixed my problem i would get a good solid pedal and then put the pedal to rest and it would go soft when i would try to disengage the clutch. give it a shot its free and quick let me know how it goes
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06-19-2011, 12:52 PM
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no there is a pedal adjustment bolt under the dashboard its a little bit tight in there but its up there basically screw that bolt in (tighten) and try bleed your system one more time then give it a shot.
06-30-2011, 12:07 AM
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rigid, thank you SOOO much for suggesting that fluid!! That cleared my problem right up! I just went out tonight and tried banging gears, and no clutch issues! I'm going to order some more of that fluid lol. I flushed the whole system with it too. So happy to be able to shift quickly now!
Btw, I didn't adjust my pedal at all. It's still right in the middle of the threaded portion. The only change I made was the fluid. So an fyi to all you guys with clutch pedal woes, you might want to try that Wilwood 570 fluid! Cured my nasty disease!!
Btw, I didn't adjust my pedal at all. It's still right in the middle of the threaded portion. The only change I made was the fluid. So an fyi to all you guys with clutch pedal woes, you might want to try that Wilwood 570 fluid! Cured my nasty disease!!
11-17-2011, 12:50 PM
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I'm having the same issues in my 240. I've got the petal rod maxed out and dot 4 in it. It seems like as soon as i get to the track or rev it high it wont shift into gear. ruins my time slips.
11-17-2011, 03:07 PM
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Rigid, I think my fluid is partly to blame. Only using DOT4 right now. Where did you get the 570 degree fluid from?! Is that a 570* wet boiling point? Synthetic or Silicone based?
- Wilwood 3/4" master.
- Clutch line goes under the brake booster to the top of the trans tunnel, then down the trans tunnel. I have it wrapped with the fire sleeve from master to trans tunnel. Wondering if I should do the whole thing? My clutch also engages about 1" - 1 1/2" from the top (my adjustment nut on the rod is about half way, so I can go either way if needed).
- I have a few bottles of the Silicone based brake fluid (511* wet boiling point), but I'm hesitant to run it since I'm not sure of the best way to get the existing stuff all out. If you mix both, I know it's bad and can turn to a gel-like substance.
Fuel pump is mounted under the car, about level with the outlet from the sumped cell. If you were to take the original fuel pump access cover off, you could almost see it, but it's mounted on the frame rail closer to the rear of the car. Running an -8AN Russell pre-pump filter (small one). Fuel tank has a -6AN rollover vent, with hard line venting to outside (comes off the cell, does 3 loops, then vents straight down and outside of the car).
Btw, I got my clutch master adapter plate from you Rigid! Thanks again! Worked great!
- Wilwood 3/4" master.
- Clutch line goes under the brake booster to the top of the trans tunnel, then down the trans tunnel. I have it wrapped with the fire sleeve from master to trans tunnel. Wondering if I should do the whole thing? My clutch also engages about 1" - 1 1/2" from the top (my adjustment nut on the rod is about half way, so I can go either way if needed).
- I have a few bottles of the Silicone based brake fluid (511* wet boiling point), but I'm hesitant to run it since I'm not sure of the best way to get the existing stuff all out. If you mix both, I know it's bad and can turn to a gel-like substance.
Fuel pump is mounted under the car, about level with the outlet from the sumped cell. If you were to take the original fuel pump access cover off, you could almost see it, but it's mounted on the frame rail closer to the rear of the car. Running an -8AN Russell pre-pump filter (small one). Fuel tank has a -6AN rollover vent, with hard line venting to outside (comes off the cell, does 3 loops, then vents straight down and outside of the car).
Btw, I got my clutch master adapter plate from you Rigid! Thanks again! Worked great!
rigid, thank you SOOO much for suggesting that fluid!! That cleared my problem right up! I just went out tonight and tried banging gears, and no clutch issues! I'm going to order some more of that fluid lol. I flushed the whole system with it too. So happy to be able to shift quickly now!
Btw, I didn't adjust my pedal at all. It's still right in the middle of the threaded portion. The only change I made was the fluid. So an fyi to all you guys with clutch pedal woes, you might want to try that Wilwood 570 fluid! Cured my nasty disease!!
Btw, I didn't adjust my pedal at all. It's still right in the middle of the threaded portion. The only change I made was the fluid. So an fyi to all you guys with clutch pedal woes, you might want to try that Wilwood 570 fluid! Cured my nasty disease!!
12-03-2011, 08:39 AM
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I've got a 15 Gal. Jaz Fuel cell for my S14 Ls1 swap and Im just wondering what size fuel pump to buy;to run for my setup without fuel starvation? I'm thinking about buying a Holley fuel pump but not sure which model?? I have a 99 Ybody/Vette ls1 and it's stock with no upgrades so far... These are the Holley pumps I'm choosing from:
Holley Red: 7psi Flows 67 gph / free flow of 97gph
Holley Blue: 14psi flows 70 gph / free flow of 110 gph
Holley Black: 14 psi flows 120 gph/ free flow of 140 gph
What do you guys think would be the best to use with my stock motor but still be sufficient to still use after I install more upgrades for more HP WITHOUT buying another fuel pump in the future?
Holley Red: 7psi Flows 67 gph / free flow of 97gph
Holley Blue: 14psi flows 70 gph / free flow of 110 gph
Holley Black: 14 psi flows 120 gph/ free flow of 140 gph
What do you guys think would be the best to use with my stock motor but still be sufficient to still use after I install more upgrades for more HP WITHOUT buying another fuel pump in the future?
12-03-2011, 11:57 AM
#15
I think the QC of the master build has gone out of whack. Ive run factory hydraulics in many cars and never had a problem shifting at 7000 RPM as fast as I could possibly shift. But my latest swap? The master was made in Mexico ( this is a first ) and no matter how much I bleed it I get the same bull **** where it wont release fast enough. Its my best guess anyways that either they are made poorly or the mold has gone out of tolerance and messes up fluid flow but only at high effort times. Time for a Tick perhaps....
